B7200 re-paint/mixing suggestions

[Work Horse]

Hey all, the few times I've posted on here you all have been really helpful, and I find myself in need of some more advice. I've got a shiny new loader on the way from Coldwater Tractors, and I got the urge to pull all the original panels off the old 7200 and freshen it up. I'm going to use the Rust-Oleum 'Kubota Orange' from tractory supply and I've got 2 main questions.

1- I've sand blasted all the parts down to bare metal - do I need a primer or not? I did a lot of powder coating at a previous job and usually a "base coat" (AKA zinc-super rust preventative) wasn't necessary as the adhesion is superb on bare blasted metal. Same goes for the "paint" we used (herisite)

2- What do I reduce the paint with? The can specifies mineral spirits, yet the ratio in not included in the instructions. Also, could I use acetone - I've had great results with it and regular Rust-Oleum paint on previous projects. I like how quickly it flashes. TIA

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

First you'll find that the Kubota Orange is way too bright as it's Kubota orange #2 and your tractor was Kubota orange #1.

Yes bare metal will need a primer, I use a self etching automotive type primer.

I also don't use mineral spirits to reduce I use acetone too, because I like the speed of the finish and shorter dry time helps with keeping junk out of the paint.

 

[Work Horse]

First you'll find that the Kubota Orange is way too bright as it's Kubota orange #2 and your tractor was Kubota orange #1.

Yes bare metal will need a primer, I use a self etching automotive type primer.

I also don't use mineral spirits to reduce I use acetone too, because I like the speed of the finish and shorter dry time helps with keeping junk out of the paint.

I'm aware there's a color change between old/new and I personally don't mind changing up the color. I'll have to look up a color comparison before I decide what to go with. I also don't wanna ruin the look - the older machines are pretty sweet looking.

What would you recommend for a mixing ratio? I believe last time I painted I did roughly 1/3 acetone to paint.

 

[Jim L.]

Not wanting to rain on anyone's parade.

Acetone to air ratio of only 2 percent at room temperature can flash rapidly. Consider it dangerous. Atomizers like spray guns even more so.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Not wanting to rain on anyone's parade.

Acetone to air ratio of only 2 percent at room temperature can flash rapidly. Consider it dangerous. Atomizers like spray guns even more so.

Yes you need to have the right environment or setup to paint any paint with a spray gun.

Most paint, stain or poly has it's up and down sides.
Lacquer thinner and Acetone are easy to work with, the exotic thinners are more of an issue.

I would say 1/3 sounds about right, I just mix till the flow looks good.

 

[Donystoy]

I have resorted to using Trem-clad Real Orange up here. Made by Rustoleum so might be called something else in the USA. It is extremely close to the original paint on my 7200. Used it recently after I had to repair the dipper on my backhoe and add thumb. You can hardly see the difference and one would just think that the rest has faded a bit which it probably has. I find that just using the rattle cans is fine since the parts are not that large to justify getting out my larger spray equipment. I have sprayed a few cars and larger equipment over the years and have a shop that quickly converts to a spray booth.
In the past I have purchased the proper paint from my dealer but I found that besides paying a premium for it, the cans would hardly work since they were old due to low turnover. If I had not found this Real Orange I would have gone to an automotive paint supplier and had them scan my color and have them mix up a couple of aerosol cans.

 

[Work Horse]

Thanks for the replies everyone. From what I've found online, Rust-Oleum recommends a 15% acetone mix by volume. Seems a bit low to me, but I'll do a couple samples before I decide which route to go. Typically about 1/3rd or slightly less has worked great for me, but we will see.

I just finished sandblasting - almost 4 straight days worth. What a pain, tomorrow will be filler, followed by primer and then finally paint. I've also got new labels coming in for the hood. Will post pics along the way. Thanks again!

 

[SidecarFlip]

Put this up before but, one more time...

Rusteoleum Kubota orange (spray or in the can) is Orange 2

Magic Kuobta orange, (spray or in the can) is Orange 1 Orange 1 is the original Kubota orange

 

[SidecarFlip]

If it's cool outside you can use acetone for reducer. If it's hot out, you want to use a slower reducer which would be mineral spirits or paint thinner (for spray guns). If the reducer is too fast, you get orange peel.

Because Kubota orange is a semi transparent top coat, you want to prime with a light primer, preferably a white primer.

 

[Work Horse]

If it's cool outside you can use acetone for reducer. If it's hot out, you want to use a slower reducer which would be mineral spirits or paint thinner (for spray guns). If the reducer is too fast, you get orange peel.

Because Kubota orange is a semi transparent top coat, you want to prime with a light primer, preferably a white primer.

I'm kind of liking the idea of the new Kubota orange on an old tractor. I think I'm gonna roll with it and see how it looks. I am using Rust-Oleum's white bare metal primer, followed by the Kubota orange. All the pieces are sand blasted and I put some Bondo on the spots that needed it. Tomorrow is sand and primer! Finally after one week, will post pics tomorrow of the progress.

 

[Work Horse]

Here's what we got so far- "paint booth" (enclosed trailer) set up. All pieces blasted, Bondo'd and primed.

Only issues were the 2 bad gallons of primer off the shelf, and my paint booth had an unforeseen failure right at the end - just my F'ing luck! I live in America's jet turbine, I swear. Wind pushed my 2x4 (screwed in) wall back like a kite and tore down the plastic. Let's just say a few parts now need sanding Gonna make some improvements (more screw's/anchors) and hopefully re-finish primer today.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Too fancy for me. I did the tin on my used M9 in the side yard on a calm day. I did have the complete Bonnet and side panels done in a local body shop however. The top had a nice dent in it from the previous owner and I wanted it 'bumped out', no body filler, just glazing compound and I wanted the topcoat to be as good as possible seeing as I look down it all the time. They charged me 200 bucks for that. I provided the top coat and primer so everything matched.

I used Rustoleum Kubota Orange (Orange 2) in rattle cans and in quarts (for the bonnet and wheels) and my trusty HF spray gun.

All the underpinnings and chassis I did with the rattle can ROPS grey after a couple good pressure washings using ZEP purple HD degreaser.

Like I stated previously, Rustoleum Kubota Orange is Orange 2 and Majic Kubota Orange is Orange 1. I heard (on here) that Rustoleum Grey is a close match to ROPS grey but the ROPS grey at my dealer isn't that expensive and covers well so I used that.

Hardest part was removing all the tin including the seat pan and inner fenders. I replaced all the rubber grommets with new ones and I replaced the Kubota vinyl seat and suspension with a Grammer style velour seat and new suspension from K&M seating. New floor mat and pedal covers as well.

It was a job but well worth the effort.

 

[Work Horse]

Too fancy for me.

Lol. Yea, I used to paint and powder coat so I know what difference a "booth" can make. Less imperfections to have to sand out later, especially with spring being here with wind/pollen. My tractor was honestly in really rough shape body wise. Otherwise I wouldn't have Bondo'd anything. I've got cracks in fenders, a handle missing off a fender with 2 giant holes on it, cracks in the side skirts, and the hood is so F'd up it really should be replaced. I didn't bother touching up anything on the drivetrain. I'm just trying to make it look like the owner actually gives an F about his tractor - especially since it really is a nice machine and I've got a shiny new loader ready to go on it

 

[SidecarFlip]

I did a ton of painting when I was younger. Painted UPS trucks with catalyzed urethanes' (Imron) when I was younger. Did sailboats too. Then I progressed to an electronics cabinet builder and eventually ran their entire paint and e-coat line. I decided it was time to get away from the painting so I went an other way entirely. I figured painting anything was a one way street to death.

The reason I'm hesitant about using acetone to cut enamel is it's fast, probably too fast for home use. I bet flash off is in minutes so overcoating can be an issue as well as flow out. Think I'd add a couple drops of 10 FEE fish eye eliminator no matter what you do. Mineral spirits or 'paint thinner' on the other hand will allow woking time and flowout.

I also used the Rustoleum white sandable primer. If flashes quickly. All you need is a light coat.

Shot all my parts outside. Calm day. Primed, scuffed, blew off and tacked. Working finish for me so if I got a stray bug, oh well. Did mine in the afternoon when the sun was low in the sky so as not to push the flash off. Parts came out what I call 'commercially acceptable'. Ain't no 'Earl Schieb' job but then it's a tractor, not a Ferrari.

I'm old enough to remember Earl Schieb and the $49.95 we paint any car and color paint jobs. They painted everything, tires included. Alkyd enamel loaded with toluene, baked in their infrared oven. Surprised the shops didn't explode.

You will get even less floating junk if you wet the floor down.

Used to have a high dollar Binks 2 knob but it's long gone so I used a cheapo HF single knob. Atomization was a little funky so I cranked the air up to compensate. You can lay down cottage cheese with enough air pressure.

Yes, I wore a mask. I happen to have a high buck 3M with screw on cartridges. Even put vaseline on my face, just like the old days... Wore a Zoot Suit too. No point in ruining a good set of bibs.

Have a Zahn cup somewhere but I didn't use it. I did the eyeball method.. It was fine.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Guess I need to put up a picture of it sometime. Right now it has a bat wing chopper on the back. I need to chop a field next week.

One thing I learned about Kubota Orange (from the dealer), whomever formulates it, it fades.

 

[Work Horse]

I did a ton of painting when I was younger. Painted UPS trucks with catalyzed urethanes' (Imron) when I was younger. Did sailboats too. Then I progressed to an electronics cabinet builder and eventually ran their entire paint and e-coat line

That is pretty cool man, I've got to say. I haven't got a fraction of the experience. When I "painted" we used a chemically bonded "paint" called herisite, which we sprayed on valve bodies. It's supposedly the only thing out there to mimic the effects natural copper has. Pretty cool, but it was nasty. Only way it would ever cure was to be baked in an oven at 400°F. Same with most powder coats as I'm sure you know. I'm not an advanced painter by any means, but a quick learner and layed down enough herisite to figure out what was a good finish or not. Helped me with my projects.

BTW, the two gallons of bad primer I got - Rust-Oleum white bare metal primer. Sat on the shelf to long. Ended up with majics grey metal primer. Sprayed on great, but cost me $54 a gallon and it made spraying over blasted metal very hard to see what I was doing. I too use HF guns, along with a 2.5 hp compressor and they work great. Had to buy their $200 "professional" HVLP gun as all their el cheapos got bought for sanitizing purposes during this crazy pandemic. F me! It is a nice gun though and I got a 2 year warranty. I stick with acetone as it's easy to work with and It's recommended by Rust-Oleum for the projects I've used their paint for.. the booth really comes in handy for me cause can the wind here is no joke. I'm a few miles off the ocean, and where the land is elevated here we are in a "jet stream" where we get slammed twice as hard as anywhere around us. Had a harbor freight portable garage anchored into a cement slab and the wind ripped them out and sent the garage soaring through the air like a kite. Ridiculous!

 

[Work Horse]

Hey guys, got some updated pictures. I'm loving the color but the paint is super super soft. It feels dry to the touch, but comes up easily if you scrap it with something solid. Kinda nervous/irritated but I had to get the parts on the tractor today to get it out of the rain coming tomorrow. A lot of small areas I easily/accidentally scraped down to the primer. Is this just a lack of curing time? I let primer dry for 2 days due to colder weather, I didn't sand the primer as it didn't seem necessary.. thanks everyone.

 

[Pau7220]

Is this just a lack of curing time?

That's pretty much a Rustoleum trademark... it's a giant PITA when waiting for their product to dry, even if you use the matching hardener. I used the TSC rattle cans with the same result. 2 to 3 weeks of drying and it just gets to the point of no longer leaving permanent fingerprints. I only buy Krylon / Duplicolor rattle cans now for this reason. I use the Rustoleum industrial enamel on my shop lifts and trim. I only paint before going on vacation or over the holidays for cure time.

 

[Work Horse]

That's pretty much a Rustoleum trademark... it's a giant PITA when waiting for their product to dry

Well I guess that's relieving to hear. I guess I'll just have to baby the paint until it cures on the inside. Never seen paint do that before. A couple spots wrinkled from me applying to much pressure on them. I'll just touch up the bad spots later. Just maddening after I spent over a week blasting, sanding, applying Bondo, then two coats of primer/topcoat. Damn near perfect until I started installing parts...

What's weird was the paint was dry to the touch and I could handle all the parts. Then when something rubbed on the paint.. all over.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I have no issue with Rustoleum at all. Mine dries hard but then I do the light first coat, let it flash off and then top coat which is what I always do anyway and then I let it sit in the sun and cook for a day or so. I have used the hardener as well but to bring the gloss up more than anything else. Don't much care for the chemical makeup of the hardener, my lungs are already shot from years of blowing that crap for a living.

One thing I learned was, no matter how good the respirators were, a bit of atomized product always leaked past them.

I forgot to add a while back that we also did electrostatic manual coating in the shop I managed. We used a Randsburg E-coat gun, wish I owned one today. The production line was a Devilbis fully automated line and we also had a water base electrodeposition coat line with powdered pigment suspended in dionized water, basically a plating line but plating paint. it's all nasty anyway.

Kind of surprised I never got lung cancer. Never did. Got it elsewhere but I'm all good now, just minus some parts.

I see you masked your wheels like I did. If you ever do that again, run the taper carefully along the edge of the rim using your fingernail to secure it. Much easier than trying to get it to lay against the tire. You only need a couple longer pieces of tape that way.