B6200HST Control Valve

[Ripp]

Good Morning,
I was having problems with my three point hitch being erratic (jumping up and down when I operate the FEL) and dropping under weight. I replaced the rings on my hydro piston and now looking to inspect/repair the control valve for worn linkage/spring pins and relief valves-etc..
It appears it would be easiest to pull the entire unit off the tractor to do it thoroughly. Is this the correct assumption? Also. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

That's a very intricate valve, I hope your skill set is way above DYI!

Do you have the WSM?

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Good Morning,
I was having problems with my three point hitch being erratic (jumping up and down when I operate the FEL) and dropping under weight. I replaced the rings on my hydro piston and now looking to inspect/repair the control valve for worn linkage/spring pins and relief valves-etc..
It appears it would be easiest to pull the entire unit off the tractor to do it thoroughly. Is this the correct assumption? Also. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

I would check the safety relief first. If it has any foreign matter in it, it could be leaking off. I think it's accessible externally, and maybe without removing the control valve

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I would check the safety relief first. If it has any foreign matter in it, it could be leaking off. I think it's accessible externally, and maybe without removing the control valve

Not on that model, the relief valve is inside the control valve.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Not on that model, the relief valve is inside the control valve.

View attachment 180462

I was optimistically guessing it might be #210 in your post #2. Yikes.

 

[Ripp]

That's a very intricate valve, I hope your skill set is way above DYI!

Do you have the WSM?

View attachment 180461

I do have a WSM

 

[Ripp]

I was optimistically guessing it might be #210 in your post #2. Yikes.

yes- that's why I asked if I should remove the whole unit

 

[Ripp]

Not on that model, the relief valve is inside the control valve.

View attachment 180462

the relief cover is the tight spot.. Got to get in there and it's too close to the lift arms.

Besides the relief valve I really need to check the linkage for the spool. There's a good bit of dead play and slop in the lever.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Pulling the whole valve will make it easier to open it up and check everything.
Make sure all the parts go back in 100% as they came out.
I don't think you'll be able to do much testing or adjusting with it out.

 

[Ripp]

Pulling the whole valve will make it easier to open it up and check everything.
Make sure all the parts go back in 100% as they came out.
I don't think you'll be able to do much testing or adjusting with it out.

As far as the relief valve i was going to inspect the adjusting screw, replace the spring and O ring, add a shim or two and take a look at the poppet.

The control lever is another story. Like I said; way too much slop and dead play. I'm hoping its as simple as the spring pins. But I want to take a look at the spool drive leaver itself.

Is there anything else I should be considering?

 

[Ripp]

That's a very intricate valve, I hope your skill set is way above DYI!

Do you have the WSM?

View attachment 180461

What's the plug (#300) for? is that a test port?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

What's the plug (#300) for? is that a test port?

Yes, most likely the reason for it.
Now what it tests for, I would have to dig into the WSM to figure that out.