B6200 Three Point Issues

[Ripp]

The pressure specification is 2060 PSI so you are way under. Sonething is out of spec.

With the gauge connected that way we cant tell if the problem is the pump, tractor relief valve, or loader relief valve. If you disconnect the hose and connect the gauge directly to the end of the hose you will ekiminate the loader valve. Start the tractor and you should immediatly see high pressure. Do not rum the engine any lomger than it tskes to get a pressure reading.

Dan

Hooked it up the way you described and the tractor doesn’t want to turn over. - cranks slow and feels to me like it’s deadheading.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Hooked it up the way you described and the tractor doesn’t want to turn over. - cranks slow and feels to me like it’s deadheading.

I

Hooked it up the way you described and the tractor doesn’t want to turn over. - cranks slow and feels to me like it’s deadheading.

It is "deadheading" into the relief valve - thats the whole point. Are you using the decompress when starting?

Dan

 

[Ripp]

Yes

I

It is "deadheading" into the relief valve - thats the whole point. Are you using the decompress when starting?

Dan

I tied that. Got a few more rotations but wouldn’t turn over. Don’t want to damage anything so I’m going easy. Pressure did jump to around 1750 psi. While cranking.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Yes

I tied that. Got a few more rotations but wouldn’t turn over. Don’t want to damage anything so I’m going easy. Pressure did jump to around 1750 psi. While cranking.

The tractor has a relief built into the outlet block so you wont damage anything with that hookup.

If you are already getting higher pressure just cranking sounds like at a munimum the loader relief is set too low. Still be nice to get a good solid reading with your current hookup and the tractor running.

There is a selector lever on the hydraulic outlet block. If you move it to the "no implement" position you wont be deadheading into the gauge and the tractor should crank better and start but you will probably get oil out the open port on the loader valve. If you can plug that port and start the tractor you can then move the seIector back to the implement position and get a good pressure reading. Dont run it long with the pump deadheaded.

Dan

 

[Ripp]

The tractor has a relief built into the outlet block so you wont damage anything with that hookup.

If you are already getting higher pressure just cranking sounds like at a munimum the loader relief is set too low. Still be nice to get a good solid reading with your current hookup and the tractor running.

There is a selector lever on the hydraulic outlet block. If you move it to the "no implement" position you wont be deadheading into the gauge and the tractor should crank better and start but you will probably get oil out the open port on the loader valve. If you can plug that port and start the tractor you can then move the seIector back to the implement position and get a good pressure reading. Dont run it long with the pump deadheaded.

Dan

My PB has a quick connect. I was able to hook up to there and this is what I got at full rpm’s

 

[TheOldHokie]

My PB has a quick connect. I was able to hook up to there and this is what I got at full rpm’s

You still have the inlet relief in the loader valve in the circuit sobyou are getting the same pressure as you got im your initisl hookup..

Snce you have quick connects on the loader valve hoses disconnect both hoses and connect the gauge to the supply hose coming from the outlet block. Now move the selector valve to the "no loader" position, start the engine, and then move the briefly move selector back to the loader position to get a pressure reading. That os the max pressure the tractor can produce and should be 2060 PSI.

 

[Ripp]

You still have the inlet relief in the loader valve in the circuit sobyou are getting the same pressure as you got im your initisl hookup..

Snce you have quick connects on the loader valve hoses disconnect both hoses and connect the gauge to the supply hose coming from the outlet block. Now move the selector valve to the "no loader" position, start the engine, and then move the briefly move selector back to the loader position to get a pressure reading. That os the max pressure the tractor can produce and should be 2060 PSI.

Ok the. Here it is.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Ok the. Here it is.

Pressure is still 300+ PSI under specification. Looka like the pump or main system relief need to be investigated. Not real easy to test the pump directly so next thimg I would do is add some shims to the relief valve and run that test again. If pressure comes up the relief setting was low. If pressure does not come up either the relief is leaking or the pump is pretty weak.

Dan

Here is the parts r iahram for the putlet. Items 200 and 210 are the adjusting shims.

 

[Ripp]

Pressure is still 300+ PSI under specification. Looka like the pump or main system relief need to be investigated. Not real easy to test the pump directly so next thimg I would do is add some shims to the relief valve and run that test again. If pressure comes up the relief setting was low. If pressure does not come up either the relief is leaking or the pump is pretty weak.

Dan

 

[Ripp]

The one on the fel valve?

 

[Russell King]

@Ripp

There are illustrated parts lists available on Messicks or KubotaUSA dot com

Kubota Tractor Corporation - Illustrated Parts List

- K-PAD - Parts Lists - Illustrated Parts Lists - diagrams

apps.kubotausa.com

You can search for your tractor model or the implement model number and find pic similar to what @TheOldHokie posted

I don’t think I have ever searched for the figure number but you might be able to look for them. They are listed in the left area when you click on the area of the tractor that you want to see.

 

[TheOldHokie]

The one on the fel valve?

Not the loader valve - we eliminated it with the last test. Bump the relief in the tractor,'s outlet block. My apologies- I thought I posted the diagram earlier. Adjustment shims are items 220 and 210.

Dan

 

[Ripp]

Not the loader valve - we eliminated it with the last test. Bump the relief in the tractor,'s outlet block. My apologies- I thought I posted the diagram earlier. Adjustment shims are items 220 and 210.

Dan

View attachment 140261

Gotcha.
So block pressure was 1850- not terrible
Fel was 1500 ish.. though that’s prob not an accurate reading.

All those parts in the relief valve; are they sleeved? could the spring also be worn out?

So just to refresh. The 3pt can’t hold weight. Even my own 180 lbs. with it lifted I can stand on it and it will slowly fall. Specs say rear lift at ends should be 1000lbs.


So just to

 

[TheOldHokie]

Gotcha.
So block pressure was 1850- not terrible
Fel was 1500 ish.. though that’s prob not an accurate reading.

All those parts in the relief valve; are they sleeved? could the spring also be worn out?

So just to refresh. The 3pt can’t hold weight. Even my own 180 lbs. with it lifted I can stand on it and it will slowly fall. Specs say rear lift at ends should be 1000lbs.


So just to

Relief valve is just a spring and poppet. Spring could be weak or popper might not be sealing in seat. Pretty easy to disassembel and inspect. Like I said I would add a cpuple shims and retest to see ig the pressure comes up.

None of that has anything to do with 3pt leakdown.

Dan

 

[Ripp]

Relief valve is just a spring and poppet. Spring could be weak or popper might not be sealing in seat. Pretty easy to disassembel and inspect. Like I said I would add a cpuple shims and retest to see ig the pressure comes up.

None of that has anything to do with 3pt leakdown.

Dan

Three Point leak down:

Is this the relief for the three point;

 

[TheOldHokie]

Three Point leak down:

Is this the relief for the three point;

View attachment 140291

The main "relief" valve is located in the outlet block up front. I did not check my WSM but I believe that is the safety (port) relief valve for the cylinder. It's a possible source of your leak down but my first guess would be the piston seal followed by drifting control valve linkage.

If you raise the 3pt and hold the lever in the up position does the 3pt still leak down??
Dan

 

[Ripp]

The main "relief" valve is located in the outlet block up front. I did not check my WSM but I believe that is the safety (port) relief valve for the cylinder. It's a possible source of your leak down but my first guess would be the piston seal followed by drifting control valve linkage.

Dan

Thanks;
I can hear hydro whistling/hissing out when I'm standing on it and it's falling..

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks;
I can hear hydro whistling/hissing out when I'm standing on it and it's falling..

Definitly soubds like something is leaking. Question is what.

Dan