B6000 won't start

[pcdreams]

OK I've got the starter wouldn't crank issue fixed, but now the darn thing won't start.

Here's where I'm at. I had the tank off, cleaned it out and put new line in. I know you have to get the air out on diesels, so I opened the port on the right hand side just below the hard lines that go to the cylinders. Sprays very good from there. I've got fuel at the injectors (that are right next to the glow plugs.

It almost acts as if it's flooded. It'll crank and crank but never starts. will dump lots of black smoke though. The glow plugs are getting hot.

 

[D2Cat]

Loosen the nuts that hold the steel line going to each injector a couple of turns. Have the throttle set on high. Be positive you have a couple gallons of diesel in your tank. (and transmission in neutral)

Turn the engine over for a 10-15 sec. burst. Wait a couple of minutes to let the starter cool. Then repeat. Do this process until you see no air bubbles in the fuel when it squirts out at the nut. May take 5 or 6 attempts. May want to have a battery charger connected to your battery to keep it up.

When you have no air bubbles, then tighten the nuts on the injectors.

Then use glow plugs, as required by temperature, then engine should fire off!

 

[pcdreams]

OK got the battery on the charge. will the fuel come out in a solid stream when all the air is out? What' I'm getting right now is spurts. It is beginning to sound different and not smoke as much, so maybe that's progress.

 

[D2Cat]

It should have no bubbles, but you should at least see less bubbles then when you started. But after 5 or 6 cycles of getting the air out, just tighten the nuts and see if it starts. If not, you need to do the process again.

I often go thru the process the 5/6 times, then walk away and do something else. When I come back I do the starter cycle 2 more times (just for good measure). Then tighten the nuts.

 

[Dave_eng]

I have had good success doing one injector at a time.

The fuel will always appear as a pulse of short duration as that is what the engine runs on. Tightening the injector line when still cranking makes it less likely any air gets back in.

Are we talking about new fuel not stuff from a tank sitting around for no one knows how long.

Is there a place to bleed the injection pump before moving to the injectors themselves

I think you have an electric lift pump delivering fuel to the injection pump. Is there steady fuel flow to the injection pump?

Dave M7040

 

[pcdreams]

Yep new fuel. I am getting good fuel at the pump (As my arm can attest) lol.

 

[Dave_eng]

pc...........
Could you post a picture of the side of your engine showing the injection pump and injectors.

Am I correct is thinking your tractor has an electric fuel pump as one is shown in the wiring diagram you had posted before?

Dave M7040

 

[pcdreams]

It does have an electric pump and that is def working. I'll snap a pick tomorrow. It's kinda dark out there right now

 

[pcdreams]

injectorpump.jpg

 

[pcdreams]

injectors.jpg

 

[pcdreams]

Finally started!!

Flushing the radiator next

 

[Dave_eng]

pc.......

Thanks for the pictures.

Right now, apart from bleeding injectors one at a time and closing up the high pressure fitting as the engine cranks, are all that I can think of at this point.

You said the glow plugs are heating, how do you know.? There could be 12 volt power at each glow plug but one or both are burned out.

I think the glow plugs are important in getting your engine going for the first time.

Dave M7040

 

[Dave_eng]

Finally started!!

Flushing the radiator next

pc...........

Did not see the running engine post.

Great news. Nothing like a running engine to motivate you in continuing to make it a better machine.

Dave M7040

 

[pcdreams]

I put new plugs in before I had starter issues. That and they burn the **ss out of me if I touch em. lol

I do wonder if that circuit is slow or something though. I held it for the 12-15 sec it ask for but woudln't start. It sounded like it wanted to but wouldn't. Held it for 45 and she fired right up.

 

[Dave_eng]

pc.............

Check the voltage at each glow plug while they are heating.

That will tell us a lot about supplying them with enough current.

Read the Bosch info in the following link.

The temps are 850 C so not just hot to the touch but branding hot.

https://www.boschautoparts.com/documents/101512/0/0/0b189154-b815-46d7-bf70-e153bb6ecb88

Look at the symptoms of glow plug failure on page 7.

Dave M7040

 

[pcdreams]

They're nowhere near that hot. Just checked the voltage 11.65. I wonder though if it could be the circuit, because as I said, these are brand new plugs.

 

[Dave_eng]

pc............ I am going ton have to go back and find the wiring diagram you posted when you thought the starter problems were in the switch.

I think the dash should have a spot where as the glow plugs heat up you can see a coil of wire starts to glow. This resisitance element is also there to limit the current flow to the glow plugs.

Is this dash indicator turning red?

Dave M7040

 

[pcdreams]

It does have one of those. It's never worked since I've had it. I was just considering that as well. the wire that should glow is all corroded up. is that cleanable or best just to get another one?

b6000Electrical.pdf

 

[D2Cat]

The glow plug indicator Dave is coaching you on may be getting voltage, just not enough. Take that wire you say is corroded and clean or replace it. The power to your GP's goes through that, so if it's burn out your GP's get no power. Since they are getting some power, my guess is you have a power drop right there.

 

[pcdreams]

would it be safe (for testing) to jumper past the controller?