B2781 snowblower with B2733 subframe on B2410 tractor

[Charlie5320]

The front of the subframe clamps even and square to the front plate of the tractor. The angle of the mid pto shaft matches the angle of the shaft on the subframe. I have about 5/8" clearance between the PTO shaft and the crosstube of the subframe and I have about 1" between the crosstube and the loader subframe, so I guess I am ok.
I welded some 7/8 nuts to the inside of the brackets I built then drilled then to 1" and milled the thickness so I have about 1/16" of clearance.

Looks good ! As long as you have enough clearance, looks like you do.

 

[twomany]

I really like all that you have done and POSTED!

I'll be following a similar path to get the blower onto my B7200.

Finding a subframe and drive shaft ass'y , even one that needs the work you have done, would be a real boon!

Thanks for posting!

 

[kubotasam]

I think the blower is all mounted and operational now. I ended up purchasing a new fixed driveline that runs from the tractor mid pto to the jack shaft on the subframe. I had welded the original that had been cut and extended, however it still had some vibration and run out. What I did not realize till I put it on, was the locking yoke on the end that connects to the tractor had been changed to a 15 spline 1" that fit the L S tractor not the 10 spline Kubota design. I had swapped the yoke from my B2660 driveline to try the shaft. I would need to buy a 10 spline Kubota yoke to replace it on the B2660 so I could sell it. The yoke was around $70.00. All things considered I felt it was best to spend some more $$ and get a complete new fixed drive line so I did not need to worry about vibration affecting the blower or tractor. The new driveline cost $270.00
Last challenge was to connect the hydraulic chute rotator.

 

[kubotasam]

As I have been fitting the subframe to the tractor I had been researching connecting the hydraulic chute rotator. I looked at old threads here om OTT and on TBN. Both my B7500 and my B2410 have the hydraulic loader control valve that only has regenerative dump on the bucket. All info pointed to I would need to get what Kubota refers to as a 4 position valve that has the detent and lets you push past the regen position to a standard dump that will run a hydraulic motor. The valve that only has regen dump will run a motor in one direction but not in the other. It just locks because hydraulic pressure is applied to both sides of the motor when in regen. Well a new valve with the non regen position costs in excess of $1000.00 from Kubota. I could have tried to fit a non stock valve from Surplus center for $250.00 - $350.00 but that is still a lot of money. I toyed with the idea of an electric rotation and selling the hydraulic unit, however I really wanted the hydraulic rotation.
As I was researching how the regen circuit worked when connected to a cylinder an idea came to me. I figured I could use the motion of the hydraulic fluid coming out of a cylinder to cause the motor to rotate. I had a hydraulic cylinder just sitting around so I connected it in series with the hydraulic motor. It worked and the motor turned. It would only rotate as long as the cylinder was extending or retracting. It has enough turns to move the chute in its complete path. This would not work for lets say a winch that needs many turns. So now my new snow blower is complete. The cylinder is just mounted to the top of the blower and extends and retracts as the chute rotates.

 

[200mph]

Glad you got everything working.

Thanks for sharing your effort with the rest of the community.

 

[kubotasam]

So here is my last little mod for the snowblower. One thing I do not like about all these Kubota front mount snow blowers is the chain drive system relies on the operator oiling the chain on a regular basis. I wish the had designed a chain case with oil or better yet no chain and a gear drive with oil bath. I have run this auto oiler on my B2660 blower for a couple of years now. As long as I remember to fill it and start it when I begin to use the blower it provides constant lubrication while operating. To fit it on the new blower I needed to make a bracket and a small supply tube to direct the oil to the chain and sprocket. On the other blower it was a little more sheltered. I am hoping the oiler being up near the chute will not be a problem. I cover the auto oiler with a disposable latex glove while snow blowing to keep it from getting snow in with the oil.