B2781 snowblower with B2733 subframe on B2410 tractor

[kubotasam]

Here is my newest Craigs list score. A kubota B2781 snowblower with a B2733 subframe. I dug it out of a snowbank yesterday and brought it home.
My first thought was to resell and make some $$. However I am thinking I will keep this and replace the B2650 snow blower that I run on the front or my B 2410 tractor.
The new blower has much larger components and should be much stronger. It also has the hydraulic chute rotator option.
Now for the part that is not so good. The reason I was able to purchase so cheeply is someone tried converting it to run on an LS tractor.
The drive shaft has been lengthened. Also the rear bracket (part# 6) on the diagram is not a Kubota part, it is made for the LS tractor and has been welded to the subframe.
I am missing parts 4,18, 5 & 12. I can purchase new parts, however if I could build the missing parts it would save some $$.

Can anyone help with pictures of the missing parts installed on a B2410 or similar tractor? I have the subframe for LA352 loader mounted on tractor.
Also manual for the blower or subframe would be helpful.
The driveshaft has been lengthed so I would need to recut and bring it back to stock length. I will bring it to a driveline shop but will need the original length if someone could measure one.

 

[D2Cat]

Sam, on that driveshaft...I'd bet you could cut the weld off of the tubing on each end carefully and end up with the original length of shaft. You'll be able to tell by how the ends look. Then put back together similar to the way it is now.

 

[kubotasam]

Here is my newest Craigs list score. A kubota B2781 snowblower with a B2733 subframe. I dug it out of a snowbank yesterday and brought it home.
My first thought was to resell and make some $$. However I am thinking I will keep this and replace the B2650 snow blower that I run on the front or my B 2410 tractor.
The new blower has much larger components and should be much stronger. It also has the hydraulic chute rotator option.
Now for the part that is not so good. The reason I was able to purchase so cheeply is someone tried converting it to run on an LS tractor.
The drive shaft has been lengthened. Also the rear bracket (part# 6) on the diagram is not a Kubota part, it is made for the LS tractor and has been welded to the subframe.
I am missing parts 4,18, 5 & 12. I can purchase new parts, however if I could build the missing parts it would save some $$.

Can anyone help with pictures of the missing parts installed on a B2410 or similar tractor? I have the subframe for LA352 loader mounted on tractor.
Also manual for the blower or subframe would be helpful.
The driveshaft has been lengthed so I would need to recut and bring it back to stock length. I will bring it to a driveline shop but will need the original length if someone could measure one.

Still hoping to get some pictures of the quick hitch installed on a tractor. What I would like to see is a couple of close up shots where the subframe brackets bolt to the side of the loader subframe.
Pictures of the pages from the subframe manual would also be helpful.
The following is the list of tractors from the Kubota parts website that should be the same,

B2410HSD
Hydrostatic Transmission, 4wd

B2410HSDB
Same as Hydrostatic 4wd, but includes Bi-Speed turn

B2410HSE
Hydrostatic Transmission, 2wd

B7300HSD
Hydrostatic Transmission, 4wd

B7400HSD
Hydrostatic Transmission, 4wd

B7410D
4wd

B7500D
4wd

B7500HSD
Hydrostatic Transmission, 4wd

B7510D
4wd

B7510HSD
Hydrostatic Transmission, 4wd

B7510HSDTR
Hydrostatic Transmission, 4wd / Turf Special

B7610HSD
Hydrostatic Transmission, 4wd

 

[kubotasam]

Sam, on that driveshaft...I'd bet you could cut the weld off of the tubing on each end carefully and end up with the original length of shaft. You'll be able to tell by how the ends look. Then put back together similar to the way it is now.

Good suggestion. Thanks D2-- I think I will take an angle grinder and start cutting the tubing until I can find the original ends. I took a close look at the shaft. Who ever lengthened it did not even bother to line the yokes up. They are totally out of phase.

 

[kubotasam]

Working on building the rear mounts for the subframe. Can anyone tell me how tight the fit is between the tube that goes across the rear of the subframe (part #6 in my original post) and the bottom of parts 4 & 5 that hang down from under the tractor. I do not have the correct Kubota parts to go by. A ball park answer would be fine, not asking to measure exactly.

Thanks
Sam

 

[BAP]

I have one on my B2920. If I remember correctly, there is not much clearance on each side when in place. I am thinking less than 1/4". You better hurry on your build if you plan on moving snow from this Nor'easter. Snowing like H**l here and wind blowing hard.

 

[kubotasam]

I have one on my B2920. If I remember correctly, there is not much clearance on each side when in place. I am thinking less than 1/4". You better hurry on your build if you plan on moving snow from this Nor'easter. Snowing like H**l here and wind blowing hard.

Thanks for the info. It helps a lot. I have my other snowblower on the front of the B2410. This new one will replace it when finished. I am doing the fitting of the new blower on my B7500.
Yes it is snowing hard. I just cam in from clearing out to the road. Hard to tell because of drifting but would guess 10 - 12 inches.

 

[Myparadise]

Before you cut into the drive shaft, can you take a overall measurement of the unit?

Thanks.

 

[kubotasam]

Before you cut into the drive shaft, can you take a overall measurement of the unit?

Thanks.

I took D2 suggestion to bring the shaft back to as original as I can.
The pto shaft has been cut and I have it clamped up to weld. I cut through the patch tubing right next to the weld with a hand hack saw so I could control the depth of cut. Separated the two pieces. Then ground off the weld. Squared the patch tubing on a power hack saw. Slid it back together, clamped on v blocks, used a magnetic angle gauge to be sure the yokes were lined up. I will weld it tomorrow.

 

[Rusty46]

kubotasam - I sent you a private message (pm).

 

[kubotasam]

Armed with some great info from Rusty46 (pages from manual and super helpful measurements) I have installed the snowblower. First step was to fit the subframe under the tractor. to get an idea of what the brackets needed to look like. Then remove the L S tractor connector from the end of the subframe that had been welded on crookedly.

 

[kubotasam]

I adaptor from the L S tractor was too tall so it needed to be cut apart and repositioned so it would fit.

 

[kubotasam]

The cut adaptor was squared on a my mill/drill and the spacing of the slots was corrected so it could be bolted to the subframe as it was supposed to be. It had been welded before. Good thing the person that had welded it was not a good welder. It was very easy to break the old welds.

 

[Charlie5320]

You may have that cross tube too low. Have you had the rear drive shaft hooked up yet? Here is a pic of my 2733A hitch with frame brackets.

 

[kubotasam]

You may have that cross tube too low. Have you had the rear drive shaft hooked up yet? Here is a pic of my 2733A hitch with frame brackets.

Perhaps because I am making my own frame brackets the cross tube is lower than stock Kubota. In fact I had to machine the top of the tube to gain clearance under the loader subframe crossmember.

I put the subframe back under the tractor, then clamped the crosstube where it lined up with the holes in the loader subframe. I temporarily drilled and bolted it back together in case I needed to change it.
Next I cut some 1/4 x 2 flat stock, measured and drilled the holes. The top one goes through the loader subframe then into the frame of the tractor. The middle hole lines up with the hole in the loader subframe that the B2660 subframe bolted into. The bottom hole lines up with cross tube.

 

[Charlie5320]

I'm thinking about the clearance for the drive shaft, not about you're mounting. I have the same hitch and was going to modify it to fit my Bx2670, but got concerned with the angle of the drive shaft, so I bought the correct hitch. These hitches were made for a 60 to 62 inch wheelbase tractors.

If you look at my pic, there is two brackets that bolt along side the loader brackets. They hang down some when installed over the loader brackets.

 

[kubotasam]

So here is a picture sent to me by Rusty 46 of his subframe on a B7500 and a similar shot of my installation. This is now mounted on my B2410 because it has the cab. Mine is different but I think it will work.
The picture on the right is Rusty's photo.
As Charlie pointed out mine is shorter. I can't figure out why I don't seem to have as much height to work with.
Can anyone tell me how to fix these pictures when they load upside down?

 

[Charlie5320]

So here is a picture sent to me by Rusty 46 of his subframe on a B7500 and a similar shot of my installation. This is now mounted on my B2410 because it has the cab. Mine is different but I think it will work.
The picture that is upside down is Rusty's photo.
As Charlie pointed out mine is shorter. I can't figure out why I don't seem to have as much height to work with.
Can anyone tell me how to fix these pictures when they load upside down?

When I take a pic with my phone, my pics come out turned too, and have to use paint or microsoft office to fix them.

So you have this mounted? Maybe a cab tractor mounts differently. The leaflet that came with my hitch don't show the installation.

 

[kubotasam]

When I take a pic with my phone, my pics come out turned too, and have to use paint or microsoft office to fix them.

So you have this mounted? Maybe a cab tractor mounts differently. The leaflet that came with my hitch don't show the installation.

I figured out I needed to rotate and change the size a little then the picture posts correctly.

It is an aftermarket Curtis cab so no difference in in mounting.

 

[kubotasam]

The front of the subframe clamps even and square to the front plate of the tractor. The angle of the mid pto shaft matches the angle of the shaft on the subframe. I have about 5/8" clearance between the PTO shaft and the crosstube of the subframe and I have about 1" between the crosstube and the loader subframe, so I guess I am ok.
I welded some 7/8 nuts to the inside of the brackets I built then drilled then to 1" and milled the thickness so I have about 1/16" of clearance.