B2650 Finalizing Build

[Clover13]

Seems like the QH and BB are the most beat up. Rest of tractor appears ok. Little things.

 

[Clover13]

Pic of rear hydraulics install and other gouges on BB and QH

 

[dirtydeed]

if the tractor is fine, then i wouldn't worry about it. BB is going to get banged up anyway.

Just get your new rig home and enjoy it before the rain sets in for the weekend.

Congrats!

 

[Clover13]

Yeah I don't think any of it is functionally impairing, it's just "new" banged up in some spots.

I spoke with the salesman, and he apologized for the damage and said he would talk with the owner and determine a course of action. Asked if I would be willing to take a discount on it, which I said probably since it didn't seem to impact the use of the implement.

I tend to keep my tractor garage kept and out of the elements, so I was pretty adamant with the salesman about it being factory new.

I guess I'll see what they say discount wise. The should probably clean it up and paint it to prevent the rust (or I'll do it when I get it).

What do you think a reasonable discount is for the damage?

The other thing that seemed odd that the salesman mentioned is needing to get this contract completed before end of month. It's on the August promos, which I secured before they expired. Not sure why the end of month is important for those promos, or he was really just trying to push this to completion (i.e. kind of telling me if I wanted to replace the BB due to that damage, then we were going to have a problem with the promos).

 

[RCW]

if the tractor is fine, then i wouldn't worry about it. BB is going to get banged up anyway.

Just get your new rig home and enjoy it before the rain sets in for the weekend.

Congrats!

My take also.

If the QH and BB don't have some scrapes and bruises, you aren't using them.

Grab some rattle can primer and paint....touch them up later, after you add a few more scratches!

Enjoy!

 

[Clover13]

Ok I'll see what they say. Chances are they'll knock a bit off for the damage.
Sorry about the small and sideways pics posted here. Here's a link to an album of all the QH and BB damaged areas.

https://m.imgur.com/a/KMLjp8L

The worst gouge is probably from a forklift moving the BB or something. Like it was wedged in the arm. Both the arm and the attachment base area got marred up.

Other thing I found odd were the QA FEL handle bolts. Probably standard to use steel but those puppies look like they'll be rust frozen in about a month. Anyone prefer stainless or just a waste of money? Sorry for the rookie questions, I'm a first time tractor owner so it's all a new world to me.

QA FEL bolt pics:

https://imgur.com/a/YrORATj

 

[greeno]

Problem with most SST hardware is they ain’t as strong.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[BAP]

As far as the salesman pushing to have the sale completed by end of month, it may have to do with Kubota’s quarter ending and being 2 months past the promotional price ending. There may be some kind of limitation for how long they can hold over a promotional price.

 

[Clover13]

As far as the salesman pushing to have the sale completed by end of month, it may have to do with Kubota’s quarter ending and being 2 months past the promotional price ending. There may be some kind of limitation for how long they can hold over a promotional price.

Got ya, that makes sense. He may get back to me tomorrow or Monday he said. I didn't make a big deal about it, just pointed it out and he said he would discuss with the owner and figure something out. Chances are we'll settle on a small discount for the damage, hopefully they'll touch it up, and I'll sign the contract Monday/Tuesday and have it the next day. It's a little disappointing, but nothing worth causing a crazy stir over. Like others have said, this stuff will get used and banged up a bunch anyway.

 

[PaulL]

I always feel that talking gently about things gets a better outcome - sounds like they're going to look after you.

On the one hand, it's a tractor, once you use it it'll get dings and scratches (at least, if you're using it right it will). On the other hand, you paid good money for a new one, it's your right to put scratches and dings in it, not theirs.

If it were me, I'd angle for a free or discounted implement of some sort. The discount will be forgotten soon enough, and you'll still have scratches. But if you have a free implement, then every time you see one of the scratches you'll look over at that free ballast box, and think - that was worth a scratch or two.

 

[Jchonline]

I always feel that talking gently about things gets a better outcome - sounds like they're going to look after you.

On the one hand, it's a tractor, once you use it it'll get dings and scratches (at least, if you're using it right it will). On the other hand, you paid good money for a new one, it's your right to put scratches and dings in it, not theirs.

If it were me, I'd angle for a free or discounted implement of some sort. The discount will be forgotten soon enough, and you'll still have scratches. But if you have a free implement, then every time you see one of the scratches you'll look over at that free ballast box, and think - that was worth a scratch or two.

I agree. New is new. A few of those scrapes could be forgiven, but the big gouge on the BB arms is more than I would shrug off. A discount is in order, or they can give you another that isn't marred up for the the new price.

 

[Jchonline]

OK, I have to stop kicking tires and put together a final list. My gut tells me the B2650 is what to go with after much deliberation and based on the experiences of many others.

Quick refresh, this is primarily for grading sand and gravel driveway, plowing snow, moving dirt and mulch, knocking over some small brush (2-3" stuff), eventually getting a grapple to move brush, eventually getting a MMM to mow 3/4 acre with. Earliest needs are driveway maintenance and snow removal. I'll use the FEL to start with snow removal and see how it goes before looking into a front blade or rear blade. Will be getting a box blade, TnT, and adding two float detent valves (requires 3 valves total because first MUST be a double acting valve). Also interested in a Quick Hitch but not sure what is best suited for the B2650.

I'll update the list of items in this first post as I go, based on feedback from you guys! Just looking for a finalized list to present to dealers for quotes and want to make sure I'm not missing anything.

2018 B2650 Kubota Build:

• B2650HSD
• ABR8742 & ABR8744 TURF TIRES (R3)
• BL7343 TWO SPOOL BANKING KIT
• BL7353 3RD POSITION VALVE MOUNTING KIT
• B7309C 1ST POSITION DOUBLE ACTING VALVE KIT
• BL7393 FLOAT DETENT VALVE (first float)
• BL7393 FLOAT DETENT VALVE (second float)
• LA534A FRONT LOADER PACKAGE
• B2366 MECH 2 LVR QUICK COUPLER
• B2356 60" LIGHT MATERIAL QUICK ATTACH BUCKET
• B7308A 3RD FUNCTION VALVE KIT FOR ROPS

Suggested List Price w/ Options: $23,203.00

Additional Implements, Hardware, Misc:

• LP QH15 Quick Hitch
• Top and Tilt Kit
• LP BB2560 60" Box Blade
• Piranha Tooth Bar
• Insurance (Have to verify homeowner coverage, if not will go with Kubota coverage)

Questions

1. Which TnT Kit? Fit-Rite has an 18 week wait time currently. Any other options you'd recommend? Any to steer clear of that a dealer might want to include?
2. Which Quick Hitch do you recommend? Any to steer clear of that a dealer might want to include?
3. Thinking about that Piranha Tooth Bar for the brush clearing work. Lot of soft held shrubs/brush in sand that should pull right out with ease. Figure this is perfect for that. Agree?
4. Anything else I'm overlooking?

I love the B2650, drove it around for about 1/2 an hour. Very smooth operation. You will be happy with this machine as long as it has the weight and power to perform your tasks!

Bucket - if the light material bucket is the same steel thickness as the 54, it will be heavier and therefore you loose FEL lift capacity. These buckets are performance balanced. Meaning if you do put a full bucket of wet sand in the 60 inch, you need lots of ballast, and the FEL might not lift it to full height. That said, it also might be just fine. Just be careful and experiment. If the steel is thinner, then you risk bending it easier if you happen to catch a stump or rock in the ground by accident.

TnT - I love the TnT. I however would not get the quick hitch and the TnT. The TnT makes it very easy to adjust and line up the top and bottom links from the back of the tractor if you have the distance correct. It wont take long to get good at it. It makes no sense to put on the TnT and the quick hitch to me, but perhaps others have some in put. Also a box blade isnt going to be the best tool if you want to angle or tilt. That is more for a rear blade. That said, give it a shot and see what you can work out!

Quickhitch - best to stick with one vendor for both the QH and the implements. You dont have to, but if you go with land pride you can be assured they will all fit. This is what I would recommend to minimize frustration, but it might cost a bit more.


Tooth bar- if you plan on using it for clearing make sure that bucket is the same strength as the 54".

3rd fxn - they may need to run this off of your rear remote if you dont want a diverter (I am not sure on the B2650 so do ask). If you have 3 rear remotes, one will be for 3rd fxn. A diverter means fluid is diverted from 1 function to another, so you loose said function while it is being used. For instance many use a diverter on the front bucket curling valve...meaning while you are actuating the grapple you can't curl the grapple. Does that make sense? If you have a separate valve for 3rd fxn, then you can do all 3 at once (lift/lower FEL, curl up/down, and squeeze grapple).


I recommend rear tire ballast (sorry if you already mentioned it). If you are where it freezes get Rimguard or some suitable replacement (some use antifreeze). Dont use calcium chloride as it erodes the metal on the inside of the rims.