B2100 HST 4WD Separated To Find Oil Leak Left Side of HST

[Slevenjr]

Any Suggestions GREATLY appreciated!

My B2100 HST started dripping hydraulic fluid onto mower deck. Removed mower deck and been using as utility tractor.

After sitting for a while, EVERY TIME i needed to use it, and when parked would just sit and drip drip drip oil literallly for weeks. Then, I would have to add gallon to gallon and half of Hyd Fluid to get it on stick.

We have retired and now we cut our own grass… it would be handy for cutting in edge of woods, wife uses zero turn in yard.

IMPOSSIBLE to see leak due to frame totally enclosing transmission on left side. Used every conceivable way to see source, but to no avail.

Finally, bit the bullet and separated HST and rear end from frame of tractor. Thought the leak would undoubtedly be easy to see. Yep, that was not the case. Not a drip!

Needless to say, it took lots of hours to separate. I know nothing else to do to reveal the leak.

Does anyone have any ideas on how to “make it leak” like it has been for years?

I am attaching a couple of photos of the left side, the source of the leak when the tractor was together.

My only guesstimate would be a leak from the hydraulic tube that connects motor to HST… it is only a pipe with two ‘O’ rings inserted into holes on each end.

I am a very patient person and HATE to admit defeat, but this Orange has about done me in… and I will probably lose my sanity to put it back together and it start leaking again…

i am truly grateful for any responses!

 

[whitetiger]

That tubes o-ring is very likely where your leak is. That tube connects the clutch gearbox oil and the trans-axle oil.
The steering return oil is dumped into the clutch gearbox and it then can flow into the trans-axle to keep the oil levels even since the hydraulic pump sucks from the trans-axle.
There should be an o-ring and a backup ring on each end of the tube. Check to see if the o-rings are hard or worn flat, I suspect they are.

 

[Slevenjr]

That tubes o-ring is very likely where your leak is. That tube connects the clutch gearbox oil and the trans-axle oil.
The steering return oil is dumped into the clutch gearbox and it then can flow into the trans-axle to keep the oil levels even since the hydraulic pump sucks from the trans-axle.
There should be an o-ring and a backup ring on each end of the tube. Check to see if the o-rings are hard or worn flat, I suspect they are.

That tubes o-ring is very likely where your leak is. That tube connects the clutch gearbox oil and the trans-axle oil.
The steering return oil is dumped into the clutch gearbox and it then can flow into the trans-axle to keep the oil levels even since the hydraulic pump sucks from the trans-axle.
There should be an o-ring and a backup ring on each end of the tube. Check to see if the o-rings are hard or worn flat, I suspect they are.

Good Morning Mr. Whitetiger,

You will never know how grateful I am for your taking the time to post an answer regarding my oil leak. It has given me hope that perhaps all is not lost in beating this problem… and when hope has been regained, it does not get any better than that!

I am 68 now and getting up and down off of the concrete is not quiet as easy as it used to be… but I am blessed.

Friend, when I get this dude back together (assuming the step by step pictures make that possible), I will let you know the outcome of the project.

Many thanks & looking forward to successfully winning this battle!

Take Care,
don

 

[tbk5]

I am not sure if this is the right parts diagram for your tractor but it shows the o-rings (90) on the hydraulic pipe (80) that you can use as an example. You can check on https://apps.kubotausa.com/illustrated-parts/ or https://messicks.com/ to get the correct diagram and part number for your specific tractor.

 

[Slevenjr]

I am not sure if this is the right parts diagram for your tractor but it shows the o-rings (90) on the hydraulic pipe (80) that you can use as an example. You can check on https://apps.kubotausa.com/illustrated-parts/ or https://messicks.com/ to get the correct diagram and part number for your specific tractor.

View attachment 69018

I am not sure if this is the right parts diagram for your tractor but it shows the o-rings (90) on the hydraulic pipe (80) that you can use as an example. You can check on https://apps.kubotausa.com/illustrated-parts/ or https://messicks.com/ to get the correct diagram and part number for your specific tractor.

View attachment 69018

Hello tbk5,

I am so appreciative of the useful links you provided regarding the parts diagrams for my B2100 HST 4WD. It is providing a lot of useful information!

There were a handful of parts I wanted to replace while I had it apart with easy access… ALL of the O rings for sure.

This has turned into an adventure and the responses from you and the other member have been invaluable!

When this project is over, I’ll let you know if I was successful in my endeavor. I just wanted to thank you for taking the time to present me with additional information…

I am too deep into the woods now to not keep walking! Thank You

 

[lugbolt]

something I did that makes finding leaks easy is to add dye to the oil, operate it normally, and then use a uv light to have a look-see. normally the leak is much easier to spot once this is eon.

agree, i don't really care for the b series design--kinda hard to work on. i thought after 28 years of working on them (and a bunch of other stuff) that I'd get used to them but never did. When I saw a repair order in my assignments, that was a b series or bx, i always cringed. Especially the bx's. I have always said, b's and bx's are nothing more than oversized lawn mowers.

 

[Slevenjr]

something I did that makes finding leaks easy is to add dye to the oil, operate it normally, and then use a uv light to have a look-see. normally the leak is much easier to spot once this is eon.

agree, i don't really care for the b series design--kinda hard to work on. i thought after 28 years of working on them (and a bunch of other stuff) that I'd get used to them but never did. When I saw a repair order in my assignments, that was a b series or bx, i always cringed. Especially the bx's. I have always said, b's and bx's are nothing more than oversized lawn mowers.

Hello lugbolt,
I so appreciate that you took the time out of your day to respond to my thread.
The dye in the oil sounds like a very useful tool in finding a leak. UNFORTUNATELY, the source of the leak on the B2100 was coming from higher up than I could possible see.
I went out at nights with extremely bright LED lights, flexible lights, mirrors, etc. The actual box frame of the tractor is a solid piece and TOTALLY covered any hopes of seeing the source of the leak.
I actually used a thin grinding disc and cut a small window in the frame on the left side, “just in case” it still leaks when I put it back together (hopefully), I can then see exactly where it is coming from.
My brother is a professional welder and said if it goes back together with no link, he can weld the piece back into ‘the window’ to give a degree of strength back to the frame.
According to the slots on the right side from the factory, my window is much smaller, so I don’t know if frame strength will be compromised.
By the way, does the dye compromise the oil or you just leave it in? And secondly, where do you get it from?
I will give you an update on the completion of this project.
By The Way, Friend, how in the world you worked on these kinds of projects for TWENTY EIGHT YEARS… mercy…
Take Care,
don

 

[RCW]

Never used it, but I think most that use a dye say it's a JD product.

John Deere Hydraulic Oil Dye - MT3668 (greenpartstore.com)

 

[Pau7220]

This works very well.

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/uv-light-and-accessories/p/autopro-multiple-use-leak-detector-uv-dye-oil-atf-ps-fuel-8-oz/835775_0_0

Combined with this. Also use amber safety glasses.

Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977

Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!

www.harborfreight.com

 

[whitetiger]

This is the tube and o-rings I was referring to, #190 being the tube,#210 being the backup washers, and #200 is the o-rings. Notice there are two o-rings on each end of the tube.
After over 40 years of working on Kubota, Massey Ferguson, Ford, New Holland, Versatile, White Farm Equipment, everything from subcompacts to articulated 4x4's, combines, swathers, balers, large field sprayers, tillage equipment, skid steers, and excavators, I find the BX and B series very simple and relaxing to work on.

 

[Slevenjr]

This is the tube and o-rings I was referring to, #190 being the tube,#210 being the backup washers, and #200 is the o-rings. Notice there are two o-rings on each end of the tube.
After over 40 years of working on Kubota, Massey Ferguson, Ford, New Holland, Versatile, White Farm Equipment, everything from subcompacts to articulated 4x4's, combines, swathers, balers, large field sprayers, tillage equipment, skid steers, and excavators, I find the BX and B series very simple and relaxing to work on.

Thank you so much for your digging even deeper to help me in my B2100 project. The schematics links provided from “tbk5” for Messicks and Kubota had GREATLY facilitated getting 99% of the parts I needed from my local Kubota dealer.
There was one part that they did not have in stock that i did order from Messicks… Of all things a metal ‘o’ ring.
After receiving it, it was not a metal ‘o’ ring, but what appeared to be some type of ?nylon? Non compressible material.
Here is my question… the only thing that made the ‘original’ 4 rubber ‘o’ rings and two metal ‘o’ rings provide the hydraulic seal when the hydrostatic transmission / back end is bolted / torqued back together.
Here is my concern…
The original “METAL ‘O’ Ring’s thickness mics at .043”.

The replacement “NYLON ‘O’ Ring’s thickness mics at .1605”.

So effectively, the length of the pipe, #190 becomes just shy of 1/4” longer…
There are so many things built to such close tolerances on this little machine, I just don’t know how the aluminum pipe will fair after being compressed another 1/4”?
My gut is telling me to use the original metal ‘o’ rings (or what seems more appropriate, a washer)…. Seems like a lot of stress will be directed through that pipe…
Your opinion will be much appreciated!
Friend, I come from a long line of welders and mechanics, of which I am neither. But it is something in my genes that “tells me I can”.
Most of them are gone now… my grandparents had 12 children… and granny and papaw had SEVEN men in WWII at the SAME time. I am so proud of my ‘genes’.
Can you please pass your opinion? I am grateful for it!
Thanks, don

 

[Slevenjr]

Never used it, but I think most that use a dye say it's a JD product.

John Deere Hydraulic Oil Dye - MT3668 (greenpartstore.com)

Thank you for that information! I am so thankful that there are still folks that will take the time our of their very busy lives to help us with our ‘projects’!

 

[Slevenjr]

This works very well.

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/uv-light-and-accessories/p/autopro-multiple-use-leak-detector-uv-dye-oil-atf-ps-fuel-8-oz/835775_0_0

Combined with this. Also use amber safety glasses.

Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977

Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!

www.harborfreight.com

Hello Mr. Paul,
Thank you for taking the time to send me those links… there have been times in the past that dye would have come in so handy!
Ain’t nothing near a mechanic, but learning what I can results in a great day lived!
Thank You, don

 

[Ktrim]

This is the tube and o-rings I was referring to, #190 being the tube,#210 being the backup washers, and #200 is the o-rings. Notice there are two o-rings on each end of the tube.
After over 40 years of working on Kubota, Massey Ferguson, Ford, New Holland, Versatile, White Farm Equipment, everything from subcompacts to articulated 4x4's, combines, swathers, balers, large field sprayers, tillage equipment, skid steers, and excavators, I find the BX and B series very simple and relaxing to work on.

I would have to say the nylon washer is not the correct part for there. It should be #210 on the partsdiagram. According to the listing all the way to the right it says it measures .022.

 

[Ktrim]

I would have to say the nylon washer is not the correct part for there. It should be #210 on the partsdiagram. According to the listing all the way to the right it says it measures .022.

Also since you seem to be new at this. If you open anything that requires gasket material permatex 51813 anaerobic gasket maker is what you need to put it back together. It is the equivalent of 3 bond 1208d that the manuals refer to.

 

[Slevenjr]

I would have to say the nylon washer is not the correct part for there. It should be #210 on the partsdiagram. According to the listing all the way to the right it says it measures .022.

Thank you for replying so quickly to my question!
I went back to the page C40100 CLUTCH HOUSING as shown in the following “screen shot”…

It shows the designation of the part as a ‘RING’, Number 210, and part number 6C040-13160… at the far right is shows that it weighs .0022 pounds….

All i knew to do was order the part number from Messicks, and as you can see in the photo, it is the same part number…

And finally, just for the ‘comparison’, the original metal ring is on the pipe to the left and the nylon on the right…

I called all over central Mississippi trying to find a ‘metal’ one to no avail…

Thank you for giving me advice on what to do next…. I don’t know what else to do when the package with the corresponding number, but a ‘different animal’ inside happens…
I know that in the past when picking up parts at the Kubota dealership, they are constantly finding “that part number has been changed to this part number and “this should work”… it always has until now.

I am so thankful for all of the input!

I am all ears and eyes if you can give me any additional ideas!

Mercy, we live in a world of so many numbers!
don

 

[Slevenjr]

Also since you seem to be new at this. If you open anything that requires gasket material permatex 51813 anaerobic gasket maker is what you need to put it back together. It is the equivalent of 3 bond 1208d that the manuals refer to.

Hi KTRIM!
You sure have me pegged right as a “newbie”. And thanks for the advice on the permeated 51813 anaerobic gasket material.
Friend, the only time I have heard use of the term anaerobic was in reference to anaerobic bacteria in Microbiology in college… back in the early seventies!
Thank you for giving me additional information!
don

 

[kubotafreak]

I would try using the plastic spacer. It will either sit in the bore or it wont. What is odd to me, is the fact the plastic spacer wouldn't be between the two o-rings. I'm not challenging the diagram, it just is not how the nylon/Teflon backers are commonly used.

 

[Ktrim]

Thank you for replying so quickly to my question!
I went back to the page C40100 CLUTCH HOUSING as shown in the following “screen shot”…
View attachment 69779
It shows the designation of the part as a ‘RING’, Number 210, and part number 6C040-13160… at the far right is shows that it weighs .0022 pounds….

All i knew to do was order the part number from Messicks, and as you can see in the photo, it is the same part number…
View attachment 69780
And finally, just for the ‘comparison’, the original metal ring is on the pipe to the left and the nylon on the right…
View attachment 69781
I called all over central Mississippi trying to find a ‘metal’ one to no avail…

Thank you for giving me advice on what to do next…. I don’t know what else to do when the package with the corresponding number, but a ‘different animal’ inside happens…
I know that in the past when picking up parts at the Kubota dealership, they are constantly finding “that part number has been changed to this part number and “this should work”… it always has until now.

I am so thankful for all of the input!

I am all ears and eyes if you can give me any additional ideas!

Mercy, we live in a world of so many numbers!
don

Yes. I'm sorry I misread the .022. I looked at messicks listing. There is a picture attached to the part #210. It is showing the wider plastic washer

 

[Ktrim]

The part number is correct. Messicks listing has a picture and it shows the wider plastic piece that you have as #210