Asking for help, can't reconnect FEL

[Roll]

I took the FEL off for the first time 3 days ago to install the MMM.

Today I tried to reattach the FEL and found one hose will not reconnect.

I did rotate the control stick as instructed before disconnecting the four hydraulic lines. I may not have done it correctly but I had no trouble disconnecting them and thought I had properly released any line pressure.

On reconnecting, three went on easily but the fourth won't snap in. The outlet on the tractor side has no pressure as best I can tell, however the hose on the FEL side seems to have pressure in the line. I can't depress the button inside the top of the connector. On the other hoses, the button will depress. I suspect this is why I can't get that final hose to reconnect.

What is the fix? Is there a way for me to release that pressure?

Thanks for any help,

Roll

 

[lugbolt]

Sometimes it works if you move the loader joystick as you're trying to reconnect the hoses.

 

[G.rid]

Not trying to be a smart ass, but did you shut off the tractor first? Just starting with the simple problems I've seen.
Because you have 3 of the 4 connected, you should be able to work the controls in all positions (tractor off) to relieve the pressure from the 4th line. Failing that, cover the end of the 4th with a rag, then push the hose up against something solid. If there's still pressure, it WILL squirt.

Hope this helps.

 

[rkidd]

Or you can loosen the coupler too releive the pressure.

 

[Newlyme]

If there's still pressure, it WILL squirt.

Be careful. If it will squirt there will be movement. Maybe unexpected.

 

[tinkerwitheverything]

If you have the loader sitting outside in the sun the sun heats up the oil in the lines expanding the oil just a bit making it hard to connect the lines.Try and install the loader early before the sun gets a chance to shine on the black hoses.

 

[scdeerslayer]

There's likely NPT threads at the coupler, so if you crack those threads you'll probably have to reseal them. I had this problem once because of my own stupidity. I had disconnected one line to figure out the size/style of the QD, and forgot to hook it back up. Then once I tried to use it, I couldn't reconnect it. I traced the line to where it connected to a hard line with a JIC flare fitting, and cracked that.

 

[gulfmp]

I know its not the official way to do things but I have used a light tap with a rubber mallet to a flathead screwdriver that was pressed against the metal part of the coupler.

 

[anthonyv]

I also used a slight tap with a mallet to fitting. Afterwards I always make sure to rotate the loader arm to relieve pressure before disconnecting hoses.

 

[Roll]

If you have the loader sitting outside in the sun the sun heats up the oil in the lines expanding the oil just a bit making it hard to connect the lines.Try and install the loader early before the sun gets a chance to shine on the black hoses.

You might have hit this right. This morning when I first went out, (armed with notes for things to try- thanks everyone) I decided to try one more time to connect the fourth hose, and it snapped right on. How about that. LOl

Then the real surprise. I could not reload the FEL. I worked for an hour trying to get the loader on and just could not line up the lower tab that grabs the integrated pin. Rain was on the way so I gave up and finished my mowing and had some lunch. I went back out and for whatever reason seemed to have a clearer idea of the angle of the loader arms and how to position them where they needed to be. Must have been that Swiss and Turkey sandwich I guess. Within a few minutes I had it back on the tractor and in the garage before the rain hit.

I thought I followed the manual directions for removing the loader properly and then how to reattach it but somewhere along the line I must have missed something. I may need to practice taking it off and putting it on so it's not such a chore.

Thanks all,

Roll

 

[coachgeo]

.. I may need to practice taking it off and putting it on so it's not such a chore....

Get a SSQA for the bucket and then you won't have to take off the FEL? Much easier to see thru the quick attach than thru the bucket.

 

[Grouse Feathers]

Three steps to making the fel easy to install or remove.
1. Find a flat level area, out of the sun if possible.
2. Rotate the control lever with the tractor off.
3. Practice a few times. The more you take it off and on the easier it gets.

There are YouTube videos that can provide some help.

 

[Tooljunkie]

With a paint pen, mark each detail in manual on machine. Numbering what to connect first or last may help. I did that on a backhoe that no one could figure out how to get back on after removing it. This way i didnt have to be around every time it was removed/installed.

 

[lugbolt]

Worth mentioning is that the FEL must be removed and reconnected on flat, level ground only. And gravel and dirt are not ideal either. Secondly, I find that when reconnecting the FEL to the integrated pins at the bottom of the frames, that most of the time you ONLY need to move the bucket tilt to get it to drop down properly. If you move the boom lift/lower cylinders, chances are good that they'll move differently of each other and screw up the re connection process. As such, when removing, put down pressure on the FEL, remove the big pins, lift it up ONLY to remove the down pressure, then tilt the bucket back. As you tilt, the loader will come up off of it's frames-and you do not need to move the joystick to lift or lower position at all. If you do, it screws up the alignment and you're back to where I just spoke of (PITB).

When I worked at dealership, it wasn't uncommon for customers to want a particular tractor with a QA FEL, and it had a non-QA style bucket. Rather than swap the bucket and QA brackets, we would just switch the entire FEL. Did it a few hundred times. It would take maybe 2 minutes at the most to remove a loader, drive out from under it, then remove a loader from another tractor, drive that tractor under the first loader, reconnect, and then do the same with the other tractor. Do it a few times and you'll get better at it. At one point in a slow winter, 2 of the techs actually had a race to see who could do it the fastest without making a mistake; and the one guy did it in minute and 18 seconds. I try not to hurry like that but it goes to show that it is possible.

 

[Roll]

Worth mentioning is that the FEL must be removed and reconnected on flat, level ground only. And gravel and dirt are not ideal either. Secondly, I find that when reconnecting the FEL to the integrated pins at the bottom of the frames, that most of the time you ONLY need to move the bucket tilt to get it to drop down properly. If you move the boom lift/lower cylinders, chances are good that they'll move differently of each other and screw up the re connection process. As such, when removing, put down pressure on the FEL, remove the big pins, lift it up ONLY to remove the down pressure, then tilt the bucket back. As you tilt, the loader will come up off of it's frames-and you do not need to move the joystick to lift or lower position at all. If you do, it screws up the alignment and you're back to where I just spoke of (PITB).

When I worked at dealership, it wasn't uncommon for customers to want a particular tractor with a QA FEL, and it had a non-QA style bucket. Rather than swap the bucket and QA brackets, we would just switch the entire FEL. Did it a few hundred times. It would take maybe 2 minutes at the most to remove a loader, drive out from under it, then remove a loader from another tractor, drive that tractor under the first loader, reconnect, and then do the same with the other tractor. Do it a few times and you'll get better at it. At one point in a slow winter, 2 of the techs actually had a race to see who could do it the fastest without making a mistake; and the one guy did it in minute and 18 seconds. I try not to hurry like that but it goes to show that it is possible.

I dropped it on smooth concrete but it sloped down from the right to the left. This might have made a good reconnect a little more difficult. Also as you pointed out, I did make some small adjustments as I was removed the bucket and likely screwed up perfect positioning before I even backed the tractor away from the disconnected loader.

I have a smooth flat (no water drop) area I will use next and with practice I think I can get it. I tried repeatedly to drop the arms straight down, stubborn guy that I am. Eventually it dawned on me that they had to come in at an angle.

Thanks,

Roll

 

[jay2]

I know its not the official way to do things but I have used a light tap with a rubber mallet to a flathead screwdriver that was pressed against the metal part of the coupler.

Same here. Worked like a charm.

 

[Ike]

Same here. Worked like a charm.

I have a round wood dowel and a rag for releasing the pressure on all of my tractors. I have taken my loader off on the gravel many times, but make sure you set the legs on a wood block so it does not settle in. That happened to me once and I had to use the 3 point to raise it to put wood under the legs

 

[kubotauser]

Get a SSQA for the bucket and then you won't have to take off the FEL? Much easier to see thru the quick attach than thru the bucket.

Please forgive my ignorance, but what is SSQA?
Thanks

 

[G.rid]

SSQA- skid steer quick attach

It opens up a lot of possibilities for attachments!

 

[scdeerslayer]

I don't have any level spots but as long as the area is smooth it works just fine. I use those one foot square concrete pavers under the stands and either side of the bucket edge when not on concrete. Once the top pins come out, other than relieving the pressure with the tractor off the joystick does not go forwards or backwards, only side to side until the pins go back in.

The first time I couldn't get it aligned because I was not on smooth ground. One side of the bucket was lower and I wound up putting a block of wood under it so it would get lined up right.