I had to do this this weekend. No way could I relive the pressure with anything I tried to push inside the loader side couplers. Once I cracked the lines they went on easy.
Maybe someone else can try this and see how it works for them. I have used the sloppy "tap-n-squirt" method but found something that works on my loader.
Even though I do the joystick wiggle before removing the loader hoses there is still an occasional problem with a pressurized line. Out of habit I always reconnect the hoses starting with the top inside one. I think it has a white ID on it. Just by luck I discovered that connecting it briefly to the lower inside port relieves the pressure and it will then snap right on where it belongs. Tried it a few times now and it has worked each time.
As others have mentioned, I’ve used the wooden dowel and rubber mallet Method when this happens. I wouldn’t let this scare you away from removing the entire FEL. I find the tractor rides better without it attached, especially while mowing the lawn. In fact mines off the tractor unless I plan to use it.
Word of advise though, I got squirted with fluid when I did mine.
As others have mentioned, I’ve used the wooden dowel and rubber mallet Method when this happens. I wouldn’t let this scare you away from removing the entire FEL. I find the tractor rides better without it attached, especially while mowing the lawn. In fact mines off the tractor unless I plan to use it.
Word of advise though, I got squirted with fluid when I did mine.
...and I always use a hardwood dowel rod, never a screwdriver or anything metal to release the pressure holding the check ball in place. I realize the ball is hardened but.... If you even so much as scratch the surface of the check ball when doing the pressure release, you really increase, you really increase the chance it will leak at some point as the ball will rotate in it's socket when pressure is released and it's in operation.