Anybody use a box blade WITHOUT top & tilt?

[Henro]

I’ve been using my box blade a lot last few days. I have top and tilt on my tractor and thinking about it, I can’t imagine the box blade being very functional without top and tilt.

The reason I’m asking is because my son-in-law is going to buy a small Kabota and mentioned a box blade. I’m thinking he might be better off using the money towards adding the remotes for top and tilt first, in order to get the most benefit from attachments he might use.

On on the fly adjustment of cutting angle is just SO USEFUL.

What at do you guys think?

 

[thebicman]

Have a box blade and only way to adjust is using the adjustable top link. Don't have rear remotes. It is a pain but only takes a minute to adjust. I have it marked for level and tilted up for finishing.

 

[UpNorthMI]

I run a box blade on my L3901 without top and tilt even though it has 2 sets of rear remotes. On my MX5800 I run with just a hydraulic top cylinder, neither are main tasks for me. I understand the convenience of on the fly adjustment but to be honest I tend to set it then run with it.

Unless box blading is most of your use or you do it commercially, I don’t think top and tilt cylinders are a good use of a budget as things can be set manually in a couple of minutes. If you don’t have a budget then top and tilt are very nice, maybe even think about 3 sets of remotes as once you install top and tilt what are you going to do once you have an attachment that needs a set of rear remotes, like a rear blade with an angle cylinder!

tell your son in law not to try and invest in top and tilt if he is on a budget.

 

[SDT]

I’ve been using my box blade a lot last few days. I have top and tilt on my tractor and thinking about it, I can’t imagine the box blade being very functional without top and tilt.

The reason I’m asking is because my son-in-law is going to buy a small Kabota and mentioned a box blade. I’m thinking he might be better off using the money towards adding the remotes for top and tilt first, in order to get the most benefit from attachments he might use.

On on the fly adjustment of cutting angle is just SO USEFUL.

What at do you guys think?

I have used a box blade on multiple tractors without T&T.

Yes, T&T, or just a hydraulic top, link makes it more convenient.

SDT

 

[SidecarFlip]

Never had one, don't need it but then my box blade is 7 feet wide too.

 

[nbryan]

If I was using my 60" BB for commercial purposes on a regular basis I'd put the remote and top link control on in a blink. For doing just my driveway and occasional neighbor side jobs it's not worth it, IMO.

And if I went that far into it, I'd also consider another hydraulic control for the 3-point side link for side-to-side leveling on the fly.

 

[i7win7]

The reason I’m asking is because my son-in-law is going to buy a small Kabota and mentioned a box blade.

I agree however, since you own a BX and B you probably know the TnT cylinders must be custom made. 5 month lead time at FitRite. If buying L or larger should be ok getting TnT cylinders.

If buying B suggest all 3 remotes, blade with hydro swing + TnT or BB with hydro rippers could be future options.

 

[chim]

I bought a box blade to re-grade a piece of land we bought next door. Worked fine without T&T. Sold the box blade when I was done.

I know guy who has a cylinder for tilt, but he doesn't use it because it leaks past the seals and won't hold a position for any length of time.

 

[BigG]

T and T is nice but not needed. However the hydraulic top link is really nice to have. Good for the box blade and also very good for the rotary cutter. I like to pick up the rear of the cut and back into tall brush and then lower the cutter with it under control. Instead of lifting the cutter and trying to back over the tall brush. I have found this allows be to clean up a field better then my New Holland TL80A with the Rhino 96 inch hydraulic off set. I can raise the L2501's cutter higher with the hydraulic top link and cut up debris that I can not get the Rhino on top of.

The hydro TL makes the changing of the implements faster and easier.

 

[Henro]

Man! Maybe I am spoiled!

I installed four rear remotes in my B2910 and only use three of the to date. Maybe I use my box blade for more than most, I do not know. OR I am simply a box blade wimp!

Anyway, I really appreciate the responses! I can not remember using my box blade without T&T it has been so long.

Anyway, this is a work in progress, but I am wondering how guys without T&T would grade the tapered slope and transition to the flat area.

This is what drove my question more or less. I can back up the slope and flatten it, then change the angle of the box blade so i do not cut into the flat area much if at all.

I was unable to add text for some reason. The picture is before I used the box blade to make things more even. But even when leveling flat stuff with a little finesse slight adjustments to the blade angle seems advantageous.

Now I am wondering what advice I should give the SIL...

 

[Palmettokat]

I have used box blade on tractors with rear remotes but never considered adding it. I am normally setting mine for a job and doing the job. Then I grew up with manual 3rd arm and while have used hdy third arm for a dump bucket only use I ever used the hyd top link for. I rather know my top link is not varying for such as plowing.

 

[NHSleddog]

If all you do is flat work, no T&T needed.

I use the BB and rake a lot. My old tractor had both top and tilt and I missed them terribly. On my new B2650 I have recently added the top and I am close to getting the tilt done.

For an experienced operator there is no comparison to the two. For a inexperienced operator, they will do more harm than good, or at a minimum be in the way - IMO.

Top:
The top allow you to follow the contour over hills and through valleys.
On the rake with gauge wheels, you never need to adjust the wheels again.
Hooking up implements on the QH is super fast and easy.
Additional clearance getting on and off the trailer.

Tilt:
In NH, a road needs a slope or crown EVERYWHERE if you want it to hold up. Being able to cut left/right on the fly is best way to do it.
On the rake, you can pull material back up onto the road real easy by digging the ditch side in.
Real easy to build up a crown.
Makes QH hook-ups on unlevel ground a breeze.

Sure I can just set it and forget it - but then I will be scalping the hilltops, loading the valleys and always wasting travel dead-heading because of the "set" angle". T&T eliminates all that. The same goes for the power angle on the rake (the single best mod you can make to a rake).

Bottom line, a better quality job in less time.

 

[lugbolt]

box blade is perfectly functional without T&T.

But the box blade is "that" much better WITH T&T.

honestly if that's all youre doing is grading with the tractor, and have no other use for it, a skid steer will do a 100x better job. Use the right tool.

Lot of guys use the loader and then box blade for clearing/grading. That's fine but the skid steer does it faster and better every time. Remember a tractor with a loader and box blade does a lot of things well but it doesn't do anything in particular great. It's a jack of all trades but a master of none.

 

[NHSleddog]

box blade is perfectly functional without T&T.

But the box blade is "that" much better WITH T&T.

honestly if that's all youre doing is grading with the tractor, and have no other use for it, a skid steer will do a 100x better job. Use the right tool.

Lot of guys use the loader and then box blade for clearing/grading. That's fine but the skid steer does it faster and better every time. Remember a tractor with a loader and box blade does a lot of things well but it doesn't do anything in particular great. It's a jack of all trades but a master of none.

And a grader will do an even better job. Use the right tool?

I have never ran into a skid steer doing driveway grading. I have seen them build a ton of driveways, I have never seen them doing grading/maintenance. Personally, I hate the ride/visibility on them and would choose a tractor for those reasons alone.

I am sure different equipment is used more/less depending on region.

Remember a skidsteer with a loader does a lot of things well but it doesn't do anything in particular great. It's a jack of all trades but a master of none. Touche'

 

[old and tired]

What do you guys think?

I very much appreciate my TnT. I built a road without it, and didn't know they existed... got the job done and I didn't know the difference.

Yes, I wish I had it sooner but I really didn't have the money for it at the time. Although, I could have gotten the road done quicker and easier if I had it, I learned how to use the box blade without TnT.

Personally, I think every tractor sold today should include TnT and a grapple but that might keep a few people from being able to afford one...

Live and learn, I have a few friends that has seen my TnT but still don't think it's worth the extra expense.

 

[BobInSD]

Never had it, probably don't know what I'm missing. I do scrape the valleys too deep, but I'm hoping moving to the 50 years newer Kubota will help with that. My 3 pt tended to drift around on the Deere, I expect this to hold a setting better. OTOH, the Kubota is quite a bit shorter so washboards may become an issue.

I do set a decent crown, but the boxblade is a little more than half as wide as the driveway, so I set it once and do different sides going different ways. Then set is flat for the yard. I try to lift up using the 3 pt when the blade is in a valley. Doesn't work all that great (as last night's rain is showing me).

 

[JoeBabbs]

If I did want to spring for a Top and Tilt, with valves and cylinders, approximately what would that run for a compact utility tractor?

 

[ctfjr]

If I did want to spring for a Top and Tilt, with valves and cylinders, approximately what would that run for a compact utility tractor?

I also have an L3800 JoeBabbs. I graded my 'non-flat' driveway just before things froze here with a box blade and then after with a back blade. I'm sure it would have cut the time needed by a lot if I had a TNT. It gets old hopping off and on to adjust the angle.
btw I do have a TNT on order from Fit Rite Hydraulics. Brian will be the first to tell you his aren't the least expensive. The 20+ week lead time is also a bummer. After reading several threads about TNT's his was the right choice for me.
I also order a 3 valve rear remote kit from Brian (which came in and is mounted). I didn't have any remotes on the tractor.
You can check out his page for pricing https://www.fitritehydraulics.com/

 

[Lil Foot]

Anybody use a box blade WITHOUT top & tilt?

Is there any other way?
Seriously, the vast majority of us do, but it sure would be nice to have that feature.
When I was first tractor shopping, a dealer let me play with a Mitsubishi that had hydraulic top & tilt setup, and it was NICE! Very easy to use.
But I do the same thing now, just a little slower & with a little more finagling.

 

[Henro]

Is there any other way?
Seriously, the vast majority of us do, but it sure would be nice to have that feature.
When I was first tractor shopping, a dealer let me play with a Mitsubishi that had hydraulic top & tilt setup, and it was NICE! Very easy to use.
But I do the same thing now, just a little slower & with a little more finagling.

I probably used a poor choice of words for the tread title.

Before I had T&T I think I used my box blade like many do, manually adjusting as needed.

Back when I installed remotes for my T&T, I installed four valves for four remotes. To date only use three remotes, and that is because I use two tilt cylinders. Three of my valves have built in pilot operated check valves, and one has float. I think it cost me about $900 for everything I needed to make it happen. That includes the hoses, cylinders, fittings and so on. That was over ten years ago. More expensive now I suspect.