Anybody use a box blade WITHOUT top & tilt?

[Papadiver]

I probably used a poor choice of words for the tread title.

Before I had T&T I think I used my box blade like many do, manually adjusting as needed.

Back when I installed remotes for my T&T, I installed four valves for four remotes. To date only use three remotes, and that is because I use two tilt cylinders. Three of my valves have built in pilot operated check valves, and one has float. I think it cost me about $900 for everything I needed to make it happen. That includes the hoses, cylinders, fittings and so on. That was over ten years ago. More expensive now I suspect.

i have had my box blade about 5 years now. I am looking hard at installing T&T on my Ford 1720. Guaranteed it’s more expensive now. Where did you get your parts to do it? Trying to figure out where to start. I just installed the WR Long 3rd function for a grapple.

Ron

 

[old and tired]

Yes, I built a road down to a creek using a Box Blade (BB) manually. It can be done with lots of on and off "exercise". My learning curve of how to use a BB was very slow and lots of "that's close enough". The BB did the cutting and I used the FEL to help smooth things out (instead of re-adjusting the BB to do it).

...I just installed the WR Long 3rd function for a grapple.

I decided to install a 3 spool valve for less than the cost of a single 3rd function. I know people like the ease of pressing a button to open and close the grapple but for the cost savings, it was worth it to me to (cheapskate) buy a 3 spool valve and mount it just above my FEL valve to operate grapple and T-n-T.

You are able to just move the Power Beyond (PB) hose coming out of the FEL and use it for coming out of the new 3 spool valve PB connection. Then you just need one hose to connect where the old PB hose came out and connect it into the new 3 spool IN port.

Then all you need to do is "T" the Low Pressure / Return to tank which can be done pretty close to both valves when mounted this close together. Then connect hoses out to the back for T-n-T (and to the front for grapple).

 

[Bulldog]

Man! Maybe I am spoiled!

I installed four rear remotes in my B2910 and only use three of the to date. Maybe I use my box blade for more than most, I do not know. OR I am simply a box blade wimp!

Anyway, I really appreciate the responses! I can not remember using my box blade without T&T it has been so long.

View attachment 46134

Anyway, this is a work in progress, but I am wondering how guys without T&T would grade the tapered slope and transition to the flat area.
QUOTE]

I would cheat and use my trackhoe.

 

[Henro]

I would cheat and use my track hoe.

i have had my box blade about 5 years now. I am looking hard at installing T&T on my Ford 1720. Guaranteed it’s more expensive now. Where did you get your parts to do it? Trying to figure out where to start. I just installed the WR Long 3rd function for a grapple.

Ron

Here is a link to an old thread over at TBN where I detailed what I did building the T&T for my B2910. I believe it has details including where I sourced parts.

Looks like I talked a lot more back then than I do now!

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/44732-never-ending-t-t-path.html?highlight=Path

It may require some endurance to read through it though...

 

[Poohbear]

Have a box blade and only way to adjust is using the adjustable top link. Don't have rear remotes. It is a pain but only takes a minute to adjust. I have it marked for level and tilted up for finishing.

Same here. I don't use box blade enough to justify cost of rear hydraulic. Now if I was any kind of commercial operation I would have every remote function money could add.