Any LX2610 or B2650 owners?

tsperry88

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Are the rear remotes valve ROPs mounted or have they cleaned it up and mounted it below the fender like the cabbed model? The "factory" remotes I saw on a B2650 look home brewed.


My dealer said they install Landpride 3rd function valves, but I know from talking with another dealer, the loader can be ordered with the 3rd function pre installed. I assume based on the welded coupler mount and hard lines, the video linked below is the real factory 3rd function (start at 0:44). Should I fight my dealer on it? When I mentioned it to him he said "that's not how we do it"

 
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MOOTS

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Remotes.jpg

Here are my two remotes on my 2610. and the levers to control them.
Levers.jpg
 
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MOOTS

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Thanks! From my understanding that is a big improvement from the 2650.
Yes! I made sure to ask my sales guy, EXACTLY where the remotes were. Kinda the same reason I didn't get the Kubota 3rd function.... that weird hose loop killed it, would have liked the hard lines down the loader though.
 
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tsperry88

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Yes! I made sure to ask my sales guy, EXACTLY where the remotes were. Kinda the same reason I didn't get the Kubota 3rd function.... that weird hose loop killed it, would have liked the hard lines down the loader though.
It does look stupid how they bent the hard lines out to transition into that loop. Did you install your own, and did you like how yours turned out better?

Did your loader have the bracket welded in place to install the couplers? I'm trying to determine if it's standard or if you have the order the loader with the 3rd function kit to get it welded.
 

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HowardTractor

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LX2610, B2372, PFL1242, SB1064, BB1560, RB1560, PD10, WC68, RCR1260
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I’ve owned B2601 along with a Yanmar 324 and John Deere 2520 (same as 2025R pretty much) and I’ve test driven an LX2610 cab with standard R14’s (can’t get oversized tires on Cab model) and an LX3310 ROPs with large R14’s. To me there is no discernible difference on turn radius with or without the steering stops installed and I noticed no “lurching” with the LX’s, by far the Yanmar 324 was the most lurchy/jerky tractor I’ve owned or driven. The LX’s seemed very smooth and very comfortable, I placed an order for one myself ASAP after the test drives! The other tractor I test drove was an L2501 and I was amazed and how much more awkward it was to try to maneuver around the parking lot, even though it had hydrostatic, had same tire sizes, was same height, and almost same width and length as the LX. If you are doing tight work around your property it’s a great choice in my opinion.
I will second that. I have been surprised by how nimble the LX2610 is. I have been debating the purchase of a zero turn to cut the grass on the landscaped part of my property (and I still might as there are a lot of obstacles). However, with how well my LX2610 maneuvers, it will be hard call to spend the cash and maintain another machine.
 
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Newaterman

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LX2610 HSDC, Z422-54KW
Feb 14, 2021
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10 hours so far on my LX2610 HSDC, no lurching and doing some tricky loader/grapple work on soft and uneven ground.
 
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Freeheeler

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b2650 tlb
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Rops 2650 with turfs here. No lurching noted. The whine got noticeably better after changing out the UDT for the SUDT2, but still, HST's are gonna whine. Pandora and some good ear buds and it's not an issue.
 
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MOOTS

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It does look stupid how they bent the hard lines out to transition into that loop. Did you install your own, and did you like how yours turned out better?

Did your loader have the bracket welded in place to install the couplers? I'm trying to determine if it's standard or if you have the order the loader with the 3rd function kit to get it welded.
I installed the summit kit. Was a very easy install after reading bird doggers thread. My loader does not have the welded bracket. Summit kit came with one that bolts on the tube.
Here’s my brief write up of the install with pictures.
 
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tsperry88

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I installed the summit kit. Was a very easy install after reading bird doggers thread. My loader does not have the welded bracket. Summit kit came with one that bolts on the tube.
Here’s my brief write up of the install with pictures.
Thanks. Seeing pros and cons to each of the different kits. Maybe I'll just install it myself. I'm pretty particular. Why are people putting power switches? Is there not places to tap hot from that is only energized when the tractor is running? Or is the switch to keep the solenoid open for something like a hydraulic brush mower?
 
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MNVikingsGuy

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My last tractor had large wheels and should have had stops. The tires would hit. I'm curious how much travel it prevents.
My LX3310 came with the stops installed so I can't compare before and after, but I was shocked at how far they would turn - they almost point a full 90 degrees to the side at full steer. The maneuverability of this thing has been a really positive surprise for me.
 
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bird dogger

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Thanks. Seeing pros and cons to each of the different kits. Maybe I'll just install it myself. I'm pretty particular. Why are people putting power switches? Is there not places to tap hot from that is only energized when the tractor is running? Or is the switch to keep the solenoid open for something like a hydraulic brush mower?
Tsperry, if you decide to install it yourself and would like/need a two hose clamp for the hoses running alongside the loader...I still have a couple left. You can see them either in Matt's thread or mine on installing the summit valve.

Re power hookup to the 3rd function: I think that's all personal choice and what works out best for you. I didn't want/or need my circuit sitting energized all the time when the grapple wasn't on the loader. But that's just me. It maybe doesn't make much difference one way or the other. I can however, turn the power on to the circuit with the tractor and key off in order to cycle the valves to relieve pressure in the hoses before disconnecting. But you could do the same thing with the tractor ignition also.
David
 
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lmpres

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lx2610
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Lx2610 delivered July last year. Just got it back from it's 50 hour service. No lurching at all. Used a lot with my grapple.....
 
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MOOTS

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Thanks. Seeing pros and cons to each of the different kits. Maybe I'll just install it myself. I'm pretty particular. Why are people putting power switches? Is there not places to tap hot from that is only energized when the tractor is running? Or is the switch to keep the solenoid open for something like a hydraulic brush mower?
Bird dog touched on it, I will too. If I'm not using the grapple, I didn't want power to the solenoids if nothing was hooked up. No matter how hard I try, I always end up hitting those buttons on the loader handle. With my switch, it doesn't matter if I hit them with the switch off. My switch is lighted, so I can easily tell if they are energized or not.
 
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tsperry88

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Just making sure I understand. The solenoid wouldn't be energized unless a button is pressed either way. If nothing is connected to the quick connects, and a button is pressed, what happens? I assume the lines past the solenoid could pressurize and that's all?
 
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MOOTS

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Just making sure I understand. The solenoid wouldn't be energized unless a button is pressed either way. If nothing is connected to the quick connects, and a button is pressed, what happens? I assume the lines past the solenoid could pressurize and that's all?
Correct, but if that wire is connected straight to battery, it always has power/solenoids are able to energize.
image.jpg
My loader buttons do nothing, unless this is on.
 
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tsperry88

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Correct, but if that wire is connected straight to battery, it always has power/solenoids are able to energize.
View attachment 58966 My loader buttons do nothing, unless this is on.


Ok. If I can tap power only energized when the tractor is running, I'll skip the power switch. On vehicles, I can generally find a power source within a few minutes of poking around with a meter. Maybe even directly off the ignition switch. Your switch does look clean though.
 
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ThomasH

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LX2610HSDC (cab model) with 265 hours over the past 5 months. No problems with lurching.
 
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