Alternator upgrade kit ?????

[707clown]

Just stick a gm 12si on there like I did with my L185.
If the L200 alternator setup is like the L185 then you have an external regular setup. Once you rip out the alt and the regulator wiring you are left with 3 wires, a slightly thicker like 14 or 16 gauge battery charge wire, a 12v on signal and an alternator idiot light wire.
Take the L200 battery charge wire and trash it, it's too thin. Go with a 10 gauge wire if you use a 10si and 6 gauge if you use a 12si. The 10 and 12si use 2 other small signal wires. A red voltage regulator wire, simply connect it to the + side of the battery, as close to the battery post as possible. The other wire is the alternator light wire. Rewire your alt light wire by connecting the light to "key on 12v power" and connecting the "ground side of the light" to the 10 or 12si white wire.
Done.

Would you use the mount from the donor car or get a custom made mount ? Im most worried about the physical differences . An alternator is half as long as a generator . The generator mount holes are threaded as well where an alter nator generally has a long pivot bolt on bottom not 2 mount b

Just stick a gm 12si on there like I did with my L185.
If the L200 alternator setup is like the L185 then you have an external regular setup. Once you rip out the alt and the regulator wiring you are left with 3 wires, a slightly thicker like 14 or 16 gauge battery charge wire, a 12v on signal and an alternator idiot light wire.
Take the L200 battery charge wire and trash it, it's too thin. Go with a 10 gauge wire if you use a 10si and 6 gauge if you use a 12si. The 10 and 12si use 2 other small signal wires. A red voltage regulator wire, simply connect it to the + side of the battery, as close to the battery post as possible. The other wire is the alternator light wire. Rewire your alt light

Just stick a gm 12si on there like I did with my L185.
If the L200 alternator setup is like the L185 then you have an external regular setup. Once you rip out the alt and the regulator wiring you are left with 3 wires, a slightly thicker like 14 or 16 gauge battery charge wire, a 12v on signal and an alternator idiot light wire.
Take the L200 battery charge wire and trash it, it's too thin. Go with a 10 gauge wire if you use a 10si and 6 gauge if you use a 12si. The 10 and 12si use 2 other small signal wires. A red voltage regulator wire, simply connect it to the + side of the battery, as close to the battery post as possible. The other wire is the alternator light wire. Rewire your alt light wire by connecting the light to "key on 12v power" and connecting the "ground side of the light" to the 10 or 12si white wire.
Done.

 

[707clown]

Sorry my phone sucks

Would you use the mount from the donor car or get a custom made mount ? Im most worried about the physical differences . An alternator is half as long as a generator . The generator mount holes are threaded as well where an alter nator generally has a long pivot bolt on bottom not 2 mount b

 

[707clown]

Sorry my phone sucks

Anyway im mostly worried about the physical mounting of a generator . The rest seems do able .

 

[707clown]

I also live in the middle of no where . If anyone knows a shop who can fix this send a # . Maybe i can mail it out for rebuild . It just seems like an alternator would be easier in my situation ??????

 

[Oil pan 4]

Oh you have one of those long thin generators?
Well that's different.
Just have to make it fit. I thought the L200 clone might be like my L185 as external regular alternators were in common use in the late 1960s.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

hmm, how 'handy' are you ? that plastic piece is just an insulator to keep the wire from shorting out. Some plastic 'rod', chucked into a drill to make the shoulder, cut to length, drill the wire hole, mount and done....
good news is you have a GOOD one to use as a reference....

 

[lynnmor]

There are all kinds of universal mounting kits out there, here is just one.

 

[707clown]

most of the one-wire alternators don't charge at low speeds. So typically on vehicles that are using them (since I'm more familiar with one-wire kits on vehicles than tractors), you get in hit the key, let the motor start. Then, after you look at the volt gage, you see that it is still not charging, so you have to "blip" the throttle, which increases rpm, then it starts genning. Normally on the GM style 1-wire, it's about 1500 rpm give or take. There are also some Ford 3G style one-wire stuff that really isn't a dedicated one-wire, however it does only require one wire to work. Unfortunately you also have the issue of it constantly charging at high amperage rather than using the voltage sensing circuit which varies the output amperage.

For those reasons, the Denso style alterrator is your best bet if you must convert to an alternator. The original style generator works fine for 99% of users, and it's dirt simple, and very very easy to repair should the need arise. This doesn't account for broken lugs, etc of course--just the bearings because most of the time that's all that ever goes wrong.

With that said, when converting to Denso style, you will have to do some wiring changes and all the wiring you need will be at the voltage regulator EXCEPT the actual charge wire from the large lug on the back of the alternator. The charge wire needs to be upgraded according to the amperage output of the alternator; many are up around 40 to 50 amps, and we should assume that it will charge at 50A, so that's roughly going to be a 8ga wire. That wire goes directly to the battery or to the starter, and make sure to put a 75A fuse in that wire close to either the starter or battery so it doesn't short out and burn your tractor down.

u

I JUST PURCHASED THE DENSO LIKE ALTERNATOR REPLACEMENT FOR THE L200 . WITH THAT

 

[707clown]

u

I JUST PURCHASED THE DENSO LIKE ALTERNATOR REPLACEMENT FOR THE L200 . WITH THAT ADJUSTABLE MOUNT
LYNNMOR POSTED I THINK IVE GOT THIS . THANK YOU EVERYONE WHO TOOK THIER TIME TO HELP ME I APPRECIATE IT .

 

[Oil pan 4]

You get so much more power from something like a gm 12si. The kubota can't spin the 12si to full speed using a stock gm alternator pulley. But you still get plenty of power to run lights and stuff.

 

[707clown]

Got the bottom bracket made , grind , fit , grind , fit . The tensioner bar came off my 85 Nissan 720 2.4 liter blown motor .

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Nice bit of bodging ! Be sure to write down the size of the belt or toss a spare in the 'tractor parts bin' for the future.

 

[707clown]

Great suggestion , thanks .

 

[bucktail]

I also live in the middle of no where . If anyone knows a shop who can fix this send a # . Maybe i can mail it out for rebuild . It just seems like an alternator would be easier in my situation ??????

I think that John's Auto Electric in St Michael MN could probably fix it, but they aren't local to you by a long shot.

 

[GeoHorn]

deleted

 

[jkrez]

I have the original NIPPONDENSO . I dropped it and broke a post that the electric goes to . These are impossible to find . The part i am most worried about is the mounting plate/bracket that fits the bolts and holes to attach to the tracror but fits an alternator that is half the size lengthwise . That being said you cant just put an alternator on . I have seen pictures of the old L200 with alternators and have also seen conversion kits and videos but not for my specific tractor . Sites like ebay and Amazon throw alternators when you enter the tractor or nippondenso # 027000-138 but lets remember the whole gray market thing and that NIPPONDENSO is Made In Japan .

Take it to a starter, generator, alternator rebuild shop. I used to work at one and the post you broke is easily replaced. I did it all the time. I worked at a place that rebuilt all those above from cars to tractor trailers. If the bearing is shot it may have taken out the armature or field coil. Again easily replaced. I worked there over 30 years ago and parts are for sure harder to get now. But if only the bearings and stud it is a simple fix with the proper equipment.
The old stud can be unsoldered and new one soldered back on. To do that we had a special soldering device that had two graphite(?) prongs and heated the small area with the stud and wire extremely hot.
The bearings are probably easier to get.
They may even be able to give you a newer style voltage regulator that is solid state instead of what is probably on it now.
The old style has a black cover and inside are points and coils. Solid state ie transistor is way better.
If you can’t find anyone, call Truckco Inc in Leesport PA. I was about to type the phone number as I still remember it but not sure if allowed here.
Good luck.

 

[jkrez]

It looks like this . That generator mount is way too wide for that alternator you need a conversion mount plate .

OMG I rebuilt hundreds of those And made them like new again.
Easy rebuild if parts are still available.
When I left over 30 years ago filed coils were getting hard to find. Some places started winding them on site. We did not.

 

[jkrez]

That post is broken and slides in and out . I got the screws out and pulley off but i cant get the ends off to see if i can fix that .

If you did not need bearings that could still be used. It’s not optimal but you could put the ring terminal under that nut. Just make sure to pull the stud up as it most likely has a plastic insulator that is shaped like the stud so to won’t spin as you tighten the nut.

 

[leveraddict]

Tractor, mower, tiller, double plow, grader and disk all for free! Dam....you made out like a bandit!

 

[GeoHorn]

OK Folks…. I posted some rebuild info…but deleted it when I see he has purchased the materials and is converting to a modern alternator.