I recently got an old Kubota L200 from 67 or 68 gray market tractor given to me . I did the research to find its serial # and production year and the whole gray market thing . Anyway , it was sitting for years , but i got it started and home . I used it to load all the tools ie mower rototiller both pto driven . The double plow , and grader . The disk is on the rear 3 point and it has a front loader . I changed the engine oil the trans oil the hydraulic oil and diesel and replaced it . Replaced the battery too . Battery doesnt seem to charge . While messing with the generator i dropped it like i do everything due to carpal tunnel and broke one of the electrical hookup posts . I have seen many that have an alternator upgrade . Where does one get the kit ? Id like to put a lightbar and maybe some speakers on it so id want a higher output alternator than 14.5 volts ? Any help would be apreciated , im stuck .
Alternator upgrade kit ?????
- Thread starter 707clown
- Start date
The voltage will be the same regardless what capacity alternator you decide on. If you have an auto electric shop in your area, they might be able to repair what you have. If you replace all the lamps with LEDs, you might not need higher capacity, it is simple math to add up the total load. If you want extreme output from the speakers, that might be the biggest load, first I wouldn't do it and second, stay away from my house.
Your looking at the wrong alternator parameter. Your 12 volt battery cannot tolerate a higher voltage than provided by the present alternator.
Your solution for more amps largely depends upon your skill level with electrical circuits.
There are many "one wire" alternators on the market now which can make upgrading, from an electrical point of view, relatively easy.
These alternators have small form factors so they can squeeze into the space formerly occupied by the original alternator but you need to expect some mounting hardware work.
With the one wire alternator you loose the warning light for no charge situations. However, you can easily add a volt meter so you can readily see the condition of the charging system.
This is one example of a 40 amp one wire alternator. You do not want to opt for higher alternator outputs as your existing V belt cannot drive a 100 amp unit.
Walmart
Dave
Your solution for more amps largely depends upon your skill level with electrical circuits.
There are many "one wire" alternators on the market now which can make upgrading, from an electrical point of view, relatively easy.
These alternators have small form factors so they can squeeze into the space formerly occupied by the original alternator but you need to expect some mounting hardware work.
With the one wire alternator you loose the warning light for no charge situations. However, you can easily add a volt meter so you can readily see the condition of the charging system.
This is one example of a 40 amp one wire alternator. You do not want to opt for higher alternator outputs as your existing V belt cannot drive a 100 amp unit.
Walmart
Dave
I just need something these original generators are impossible to find . Thats why i want an alternator for real . I dont have to put anything extra as far as power drag accessories but i do need it to charge battery , the old one has a noisy bearing on the pulley as well . Id like a new one but from my research an alternator may be better and easier
If anyone can find the NIPPONDENSO generator ill take it . Otherwise im in need of an alternator conversion kit that has a mountvplate that fits my tractor the alternator and the tensoin botl bar . it would have to be wired for an alternator plug as opposed to generator posts as well . I believe it has a different belt too .
most of the one-wire alternators don't charge at low speeds. So typically on vehicles that are using them (since I'm more familiar with one-wire kits on vehicles than tractors), you get in hit the key, let the motor start. Then, after you look at the volt gage, you see that it is still not charging, so you have to "blip" the throttle, which increases rpm, then it starts genning. Normally on the GM style 1-wire, it's about 1500 rpm give or take. There are also some Ford 3G style one-wire stuff that really isn't a dedicated one-wire, however it does only require one wire to work. Unfortunately you also have the issue of it constantly charging at high amperage rather than using the voltage sensing circuit which varies the output amperage.
For those reasons, the Denso style alterrator is your best bet if you must convert to an alternator. The original style generator works fine for 99% of users, and it's dirt simple, and very very easy to repair should the need arise. This doesn't account for broken lugs, etc of course--just the bearings because most of the time that's all that ever goes wrong.
With that said, when converting to Denso style, you will have to do some wiring changes and all the wiring you need will be at the voltage regulator EXCEPT the actual charge wire from the large lug on the back of the alternator. The charge wire needs to be upgraded according to the amperage output of the alternator; many are up around 40 to 50 amps, and we should assume that it will charge at 50A, so that's roughly going to be a 8ga wire. That wire goes directly to the battery or to the starter, and make sure to put a 75A fuse in that wire close to either the starter or battery so it doesn't short out and burn your tractor down.
For those reasons, the Denso style alterrator is your best bet if you must convert to an alternator. The original style generator works fine for 99% of users, and it's dirt simple, and very very easy to repair should the need arise. This doesn't account for broken lugs, etc of course--just the bearings because most of the time that's all that ever goes wrong.
With that said, when converting to Denso style, you will have to do some wiring changes and all the wiring you need will be at the voltage regulator EXCEPT the actual charge wire from the large lug on the back of the alternator. The charge wire needs to be upgraded according to the amperage output of the alternator; many are up around 40 to 50 amps, and we should assume that it will charge at 50A, so that's roughly going to be a 8ga wire. That wire goes directly to the battery or to the starter, and make sure to put a 75A fuse in that wire close to either the starter or battery so it doesn't short out and burn your tractor down.
I have the original NIPPONDENSO . I dropped it and broke a post that the electric goes to . These are impossible to find . The part i am most worried about is the mounting plate/bracket that fits the bolts and holes to attach to the tracror but fits an alternator that is half the size lengthwise . That being said you cant just put an alternator on . I have seen pictures of the old L200 with alternators and have also seen conversion kits and videos but not for my specific tractor . Sites like ebay and Amazon throw alternators when you enter the tractor or nippondenso # 027000-138 but lets remember the whole gray market thing and that NIPPONDENSO is Made In Japan .
Heres the serial # stamped on the body under the shifter making it from the info ive researched a 67-68 gray market Kubota L200
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That post is broken and slides in and out . I got the screws out and pulley off but i cant get the ends off to see if i can fix that .
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You need to appreciate the age of your L200. Built in 1972 & 1973.
Charging system upgrade kits for old rare machines are not common.
Further your L200 may be a Gray market machine. Read the Gray section of the forum.
Which way does the pto turn. Some Gray's pto turn opposite North American implements needs.
Contact 07kubotaguy as he is often parting out old L series tractors.
I found this posting:
I guess the best answer to your question regarding whether or not it is a gray market tractor is that it could be. The L200 was the first L series tractor imported to the US in 1969. It was also sold in Japan. So there are both gray market L200's and L200's that would not be considered gray market. On the Kubota website, they have the L200 listed as a prior product sold in the US, and they also have it listed on the list of gray market tractors with an * by it. The footnote explains this. One way you may be able to tell whether it is a US tractor or a gray would be to look at the ID plate on the left side of the tractor. It is the metal plate with the model number and the engine model number printed on it. If it is in Japanese, then it is probably a gray. If it is in English, then probably not. (I'm not 100% sure about this however).
I own a 1972 L210 which was the first L series Kubota specifically designed for the US market and never sold in Japan. The verbiage on the ID plate is in English. From the back ground work I did when looking into my L210, prior to restoration, I would say, other then some styling changes to the hood and fenders, that the L200 and the L210 are basically the same tractor with the same engine.
Dave
Charging system upgrade kits for old rare machines are not common.
Further your L200 may be a Gray market machine. Read the Gray section of the forum.
Which way does the pto turn. Some Gray's pto turn opposite North American implements needs.
Contact 07kubotaguy as he is often parting out old L series tractors.
I found this posting:
I guess the best answer to your question regarding whether or not it is a gray market tractor is that it could be. The L200 was the first L series tractor imported to the US in 1969. It was also sold in Japan. So there are both gray market L200's and L200's that would not be considered gray market. On the Kubota website, they have the L200 listed as a prior product sold in the US, and they also have it listed on the list of gray market tractors with an * by it. The footnote explains this. One way you may be able to tell whether it is a US tractor or a gray would be to look at the ID plate on the left side of the tractor. It is the metal plate with the model number and the engine model number printed on it. If it is in Japanese, then it is probably a gray. If it is in English, then probably not. (I'm not 100% sure about this however).
I own a 1972 L210 which was the first L series Kubota specifically designed for the US market and never sold in Japan. The verbiage on the ID plate is in English. From the back ground work I did when looking into my L210, prior to restoration, I would say, other then some styling changes to the hood and fenders, that the L200 and the L210 are basically the same tractor with the same engine.
Dave
I know its a gray market bro . The stamped serial on the body like that gives it away the American ones had a Kubota tag with the serial and english writing . Theres a thread on this forum where a guy worked at a kubota dealer and they had 15134 i believe and it was said to be a 68 . The tractor came out in 67 and mine is a 67 or 68 . Ive dobe my research on this one .
i.i know its an antique tractor and parts are impossible to find but it runs and works fine if you can get it to start which requires a charged battery and good charging generator to keep it churning . I also know theres pictures on this orange tractor talks that show them with alternators as an upgrade and easier long run option .
It looks like this . That generator mount is way too wide for that alternator you need a conversion mount plate .
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Lil Foot
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Lifetime Member
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1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
You might PM 007kubotaguy
He has helped a lot of members with parts.
Worth a try.
He has helped a lot of members with parts.
Worth a try.
Just stick a gm 12si on there like I did with my L185.
If the L200 alternator setup is like the L185 then you have an external regular setup. Once you rip out the alt and the regulator wiring you are left with 3 wires, a slightly thicker like 14 or 16 gauge battery charge wire, a 12v on signal and an alternator idiot light wire.
Take the L200 battery charge wire and trash it, it's too thin. Go with a 10 gauge wire if you use a 10si and 6 gauge if you use a 12si. The 10 and 12si use 2 other small signal wires. A red voltage regulator wire, simply connect it to the + side of the battery, as close to the battery post as possible. The other wire is the alternator light wire. Rewire your alt light wire by connecting the light to "key on 12v power" and connecting the "ground side of the light" to the 10 or 12si white wire.
Done.
If the L200 alternator setup is like the L185 then you have an external regular setup. Once you rip out the alt and the regulator wiring you are left with 3 wires, a slightly thicker like 14 or 16 gauge battery charge wire, a 12v on signal and an alternator idiot light wire.
Take the L200 battery charge wire and trash it, it's too thin. Go with a 10 gauge wire if you use a 10si and 6 gauge if you use a 12si. The 10 and 12si use 2 other small signal wires. A red voltage regulator wire, simply connect it to the + side of the battery, as close to the battery post as possible. The other wire is the alternator light wire. Rewire your alt light wire by connecting the light to "key on 12v power" and connecting the "ground side of the light" to the 10 or 12si white wire.
Done.
GreensvilleJay
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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
A car electrical repair shop, one that rebuilds starters and alternators CAN fix the genny. Sounds like you broke the plastic insulator, and that's easy to replace, as are the bearings. do this and it'll outlive you, me and the cat. It's the simplest way ,NO rewiring solution,maybe $100 . Bodging ANY alternator will probably cost you more it parts and rewiring and downtime.
I agree with others who suggest FIXING the dynamo instead of converting to Alternator. A dynamo is pretty much bullettproof and RARELY break (unless it is dropped 
)
This is based on your requirements:
)This is based on your requirements:
As you replace the incandescent bulbs with LED's.... your power requirements will go DOWN because LED's do not need as much current. This provides enough current for your speakers. (although headphones would be better when running tractor)