Advice for tractor newbie

[TheOldHokie]

Hello, I found this site when researching tractors and saw that Kubota makes some models that look interesting. So I appreciate any advice I can get from experienced users. I've never owned a tractor and I have about 150 acres of forest land that has lots of trails through the woods that often get trees down over them and I want to keep it clear. It also has a small lawn and gardens. I would be using the tractor for moving trees and logs, possibly hauling wood out of the forest, cleaning up brush and branches, moving rocks once in a while, and evening out dirt roads that often get ruts, and puddles in them due to them not being maintained. Nice to have would also be a post hole digger, and maybe even an attachment to help dig out stumps. I do have a Kubota dealer nearby. From my limited researched I've narrowed it down to these models for my budget:

BX2380 - this one seems on the small side of what I might need, but really affordable.
B2401 - this one has a stick shift, which is nice and saves money, and a bit bigger than the bx
LX2610SU - this is the one that seems most interesting to me, its more powerful than the B models, and it seems to be the newest design with a lot of nice features.
L2501 - the biggest and heaviest one I've been considering. No frills but might be harder to maneuver through the tails, and might possibly leave unwanted imprints on the yard

What made me start thinking about getting one is Kubota's generous financing terms. So preferably I would like to finance it over 84 months.

The reason why I'm tending towards the LX2610SU is that we already have a riding lawn mower that is used for the yard, so I don't think I would need the tractor for mowing the grass lawn, so not having a "mid mount mower" is not a big deal to me, but I do think I would need it for mowing the much more rough trails through the woods, which often will have branches, brush and small saplings that I ideally would like to power through. I'm not yet sure which implement would be rugged enough for that but that would be my ideal scenario, driving through the trails mowing the brush and then pushing the larger stuff out of the way, using a chainsaw as needed. For this, I'm not sure if I would want to use a rotary mower on the back, a flail mower on back, or perhaps something else that I haven't though of yet.

Also really important is the driveway into the place which is very long dirt road that gets ruts in it. I've seen a video of the "box-scraper" and that seems like it would be perfect for fixing the ruts and making the road even.

The other attachment which I saw that seems like it would be incredibly useful for me is the grapple to move branches of trees and small logs.

So those are the main things I would use, and possibly a post-hole digger and and a stump tool.

Oh and one other factor to consider. This land is vacation land so I would have to leave the tractor sit for long periods, sometimes months. So when I do use it I just want it to work. I want to get the most reliable and simple type with the least amount of things that can go wrong without a lot of trips to the dealer. So if the HST transmission is not as reliable as the stick shift that might be a factor in the decision process. etc.

Really appreciate anyone's advice. Thanks!

For your budget, 150 acres, and the jobs you are describing go with an L series or bigger with loader. A L3901 is not a lot more than a L2501 and you will be happy you paid for the extra HP. The $4k difference financed at 0% over 84 months is noise. The l4701 is probably a better fit but considerably more green. None of them are going to eat your lawn if you stay off it when wet and soft.

I just bought a new L3901 and had my choice of two new ones in stock at a local dealer and a used machine with 170 hours on it. The LX and L2501 were nowhere to be had. Don't rush and buy something that is too small just because you can get it quickly. You will be regretting it for years to come.

Dan

 

[PaulL]

Heh. We can do this all day. The MX is nearly the same price as the L4701, and a much better machine.

 

[CGMKCM]

I had a 30 HP tractor and maintained my 70 acre property logging, building trails, mowing, gravel work and snow removal. It got the job done but I broke stuff like hydraulic cylinders, bent bucket, front axle damage, 4 wheel drive damage. That tractor made it 18 years before I had enough of throwing money at it. My new tractor really does a much better job handling tree work and loader work. For a large property I would double the tractor size you are looking at. I think it will be much more reliable and safer to operate.

 

[alter]

I had a 30 HP tractor and maintained my 70 acre property logging, building trails, mowing, gravel work and snow removal. It got the job done but I broke stuff like hydraulic cylinders, bent bucket, front axle damage, 4 wheel drive damage. That tractor made it 18 years before I had enough of throwing money at it. My new tractor really does a much better job handling tree work and loader work. For a large property I would double the tractor size you are looking at. I think it will be much more reliable and safer to operate.

Can I ask what model tractor that is in the pic? Those are some impressive logs. My dealer said that he will have an L4060 in stock soon...but my original budget range keeps creeping up...I'm going to have to bite the bullet soon and order something.

 

[CGMKCM]

Can I ask what model tractor that is in the pic? Those are some impressive logs. My dealer said that he will have an L4060 in stock soon...but my original budget range keeps creeping up...I'm going to have to bite the bullet soon and order something.

My tractor is a 4760, I selected that model because it shares the hydraulics and loader size of the bigger 60 series tractors. I was more interested in loader capacity than PTO output. The 4060 has a loader one step down from mine but still has good capacity. I think the engine is the same displacement as mine but is turned down horsepower wise.

 

[alter]

I still have a few questions if anyone is willing to chime in.

-For the L4060 LE, I was thinking just to get the 3rd function kit, and instead of buying the factory grapple, purchase a "Wicked Root Rake Grapple" from Everything Attachments, which seems more heavy duty, and with serrated arms for grabbing better and stronger, more durable steel. Will this fit right on the loader, and does anyone have any good or negative feedback on it?

-I am still undecided on whether to get the rear "top and tilt" hydraulics installed. I am for sure going to use a box blade or land plane to even out and crown dirt roads. But when researching I've read that some people have trouble with the factory top and tilt "leaking". So I'm undecided if I should get this. It sounds like something I would want, however if it is problematic maybe I should avoid it. Is this something that I can add later just as easily as when buying it new, or should I decide now? I'm also unsure about whether 2 or 3 rear remotes would ever be needed.

-I have heard there are 2 front loader bucket options, the default, and also a "heavy duty" rounded bucket. Can anyone tell me if the heavy duty one is worth the upcharge, and if so, why? I suppose I would prefer a more heavy duty, durable bucket that can stand up to more abuse, but are there any negatives with going with that option, other than the extra charge?

-are there any other options that I should definitely add at the time of purchase? such as lights or the "mid pto kit"? I don't plan on buying a mid mounted mower, so what other things can the mid-pto kit be used for? I'm not planning on buying a snow blower ever for it.

-Is the "3rd function quick coupler" a good idea, or does it have reliability issues? Are the hoses hard to disconnect without a quick coupler?

Thanks

 

[TheOldHokie]

I still have a few questions if anyone is willing to chime in.

-For the L4060 LE, I was thinking just to get the 3rd function kit, and instead of buying the factory grapple, purchase a "Wicked Root Rake Grapple" from Everything Attachments, which seems more heavy duty, and with serrated arms for grabbing better and stronger, more durable steel. Will this fit right on the loader, and does anyone have any good or negative feedback on it?

-I am still undecided on whether to get the rear "top and tilt" hydraulics installed. I am for sure going to use a box blade or land plane to even out and crown dirt roads. But when researching I've read that some people have trouble with the factory top and tilt "leaking". So I'm undecided if I should get this. It sounds like something I would want, however if it is problematic maybe I should avoid it. Is this something that I can add later just as easily as when buying it new, or should I decide now? I'm also unsure about whether 2 or 3 rear remotes would ever be needed.

-I have heard there are 2 front loader bucket options, the default, and also a "heavy duty" rounded bucket. Can anyone tell me if the heavy duty one is worth the upcharge, and if so, why? I suppose I would prefer a more heavy duty, durable bucket that can stand up to more abuse, but are there any negatives with going with that option, other than the extra charge?

-are there any other options that I should definitely add at the time of purchase? such as lights or the "mid pto kit"? I don't plan on buying a mid mounted mower, so what other things can the mid-pto kit be used for? I'm not planning on buying a snow blower ever for it.

-Is the "3rd function quick coupler" a good idea, or does it have reliability issues? Are the hoses hard to disconnect without a quick coupler?

Thanks

Sounds like you have decided on the model you want. I would vote for the HD bucket - the round back is stiffer and I prefer that design for back dragging grade. I'd also reccomend a couple factory rear remote valves. Top and tilt cylinders can be added later after you have some experience using the machine and are better equipped to judge their utility. Based on your described use third function and grapple if your budget will allow. Unless the 60s are different than the 01s there is no real advantage other than convenience to buy from the dealer and third party can be less expensive. Quick couplers are a must.

Dan

 

[CGMKCM]

I had the 3rd function installed by the dealer and also had rear plumbed for hydraulic top cylinder. No problems with the quick couplers so far. I did not order the heavy bucket because I purchased a four in one bucket for digging, grading etc. I had front and rear work lights installed by the dealer and a canopy. I also upgraded to the air ride seat after reading several posts about stock suspension seat issues with bottoming out.

I also added a few things that you can't buy through Kubota. Bolt on hooks for the light duty bucket, weld on hooks for the four in one bucket Bolt on Hooks . Skid plate to protect the 3rd function valve assy and hoses, FEL hose guard, and Diff lock pedal from Specialty Repairs
I would also add the grill guard Grill guard . All of these items are really well built and easy to install.

 

[MOOTS]

I still have a few questions if anyone is willing to chime in.

-For the L4060 LE, I was thinking just to get the 3rd function kit, and instead of buying the factory grapple, purchase a "Wicked Root Rake Grapple" from Everything Attachments, which seems more heavy duty, and with serrated arms for grabbing better and stronger, more durable steel. Will this fit right on the loader, and does anyone have any good or negative feedback on it?

-I am still undecided on whether to get the rear "top and tilt" hydraulics installed. I am for sure going to use a box blade or land plane to even out and crown dirt roads. But when researching I've read that some people have trouble with the factory top and tilt "leaking". So I'm undecided if I should get this. It sounds like something I would want, however if it is problematic maybe I should avoid it. Is this something that I can add later just as easily as when buying it new, or should I decide now? I'm also unsure about whether 2 or 3 rear remotes would ever be needed.

-I have heard there are 2 front loader bucket options, the default, and also a "heavy duty" rounded bucket. Can anyone tell me if the heavy duty one is worth the upcharge, and if so, why? I suppose I would prefer a more heavy duty, durable bucket that can stand up to more abuse, but are there any negatives with going with that option, other than the extra charge?

-are there any other options that I should definitely add at the time of purchase? such as lights or the "mid pto kit"? I don't plan on buying a mid mounted mower, so what other things can the mid-pto kit be used for? I'm not planning on buying a snow blower ever for it.

-Is the "3rd function quick coupler" a good idea, or does it have reliability issues? Are the hoses hard to disconnect without a quick coupler?

Thanks

Wicked grapple is awesome. Better order now as they are about 14 weeks out.

I would third party the top and tilt, as your dealer will likely do the same, with some added mark up. And some(most) Kubota valves leak over time. Some cylinders have check valves to prevent creep. I would add the remotes now. 3 is a good number, 2 for top and tilt, one spare.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I had the 3rd function installed by the dealer and also had rear plumbed for hydraulic top cylinder. No problems with the quick couplers so far. I did not order the heavy bucket because I purchased a four in one bucket for digging, grading etc. I had front and rear work lights installed by the dealer and a canopy. I also upgraded to the air ride seat after reading several posts about stock suspension seat issues with bottoming out.

I also added a few things that you can't buy through Kubota. Bolt on hooks for the light duty bucket, weld on hooks for the four in one bucket Bolt on Hooks . Skid plate to protect the 3rd function valve assy and hoses, FEL hose guard, and Diff lock pedal from Specialty Repairs
I would also add the grill guard Grill guard . All of these items are really well built and easy to install.

Plus one on the grille guard. The OEM frame is pretty much useless as delivered - took me about a week to punch a hole in my new grille. I just put my new grille guard on a couple days ago and ordered a replacement for the damaged grille - surprisingly only $90 but I am sure they do a volume business

Dan

 

[alter]

Sounds like you have decided on the model you want.

I have not, unfortunately. I keep going back and forth between L2501 and L4060LE in my mind. I really like the simple design of the L2501, lack of emissions stuff, lack of computers, lack of LCD screen, etc. But I'm not sure how long I would have to wait if I order one. And it is small enough to not be intimidating for a first time tractor user.

However the L4060LE sounds like a tractor I could grow into, lots of nice features and the larger size and weight seems to be the recurring theme I'm hearing on this site, to err on the side of large rather than small.

I have not seen the L4060Le in person, and I'm worried about it fitting into places in general but especially into the garage or a potential shipping container. I have to do some measuring. I'm also worried about leaving it sitting in an unheated garage in subzero temperatures for months, whether that will be bad for the computer/lcd screen etc.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I have not, unfortunately. I keep going back and forth between L2501 and L4060LE in my mind. I really like the simple design of the L2501, lack of emissions stuff, lack of computers, lack of LCD screen, etc. But I'm not sure how long I would have to wait if I order one. And it is small enough to not be intimidating for a first time tractor user.

However the L4060LE sounds like a tractor I could grow into, lots of nice features and the larger size and weight seems to be the recurring theme I'm hearing on this site, to err on the side of large rather than small.

I have not seen the L4060Le in person, and I'm worried about it fitting into places in general but especially into the garage or a potential shipping container. I have to do some measuring. I'm also worried about leaving it sitting in an unheated garage in subzero temperatures for months, whether that will be bad for the computer/lcd screen etc.

For maintaining 150 acres you won't be erring on the large side with a L4060 - - maybe on the smallish side. Build an unheated shed and keep it locked up inside and it will be fine. If my shopping experience is any gauge you will be hard pressed to see any of these tractors in person let alone test drive them. The lots were all bare and inventory that arrived went straight out the door to a waiting customer.

Dan

 

[alter]

For maintaining 150 acres you won't be erring on the large side with a L4060 - - maybe on the smallish side. Build an unheated shed and keep it locked up inside and it will be fine. If my shopping experience is any gauge you will be hard pressed to see any of these tractors in person let alone test drive them. The lots were all bare and inventory that arrived went straight out the door to a waiting customer.

Dan

Ok thanks for this info. Does anyone know the height of the L4060 with the ROPS folded down? Low enough to fit into a standard garage?

 

[MOOTS]

Ok thanks for this info. Does anyone know the height of the L4060 with the ROPS folded down? Low enough to fit into a standard garage?

76.5” on my MX that I’m installing remotes on right now.

Gotta duck while in seat, but it fits.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Ok thanks for this info. Does anyone know the height of the L4060 with the ROPS folded down? Low enough to fit into a standard garage?

ROPS on L3901 is 91.7" and L4060 is 96.7". The 3901 measure 6'-1" folded so one would think the L4060 should be well under 7'.

Dan

 

[alter]

I think the L4060LE will end up costing 35k-40k with the options and the few implements I need ( but no grapple)

For reference, I drive a 13 year old car and this will be the most expensive thing I've purchased other than real estate. I'm telling myself to look at it as an investment though, and that even in the worst case scenario, that these things hold their value pretty well and I'll probably be out only a few thousand dollars and get several years of use out of it, if I ever am forced to sell after a few years.

Based on browsing through the used tractor market it seems like if it is kept maintained and good condition etc, it should only depreciate 1-2k per year or so, does that sound about right?

 

[bbxlr8]

I think the L4060LE will end up costing 35k-40k with the options and the few implements I need ( but no grapple)

For reference, I drive a 13 year old car and this will be the most expensive thing I've purchased other than real estate. I'm telling myself to look at it as an investment though, and that even in the worst case scenario, that these things hold their value pretty well and I'll probably be out only a few thousand dollars and get several years of use out of it, if I ever am forced to sell after a few years.

Based on browsing through the used tractor market it seems like if it is kept maintained and good condition etc, it should only depreciate 1-2k per year or so, does that sound about right?

Just saw this thread & I went through analysis paralysis and got some very good advice here.

FWIW - I ended up with the L2501 TLB w 3fxn & LP grapple for woods work & grading: trails, rocks, stumps & firewood. My first test was a 3ft oak stump left by hurricane Sandy. I went aftermarket for the BB and am still on the learning curve having only used it on my small ford w 60"mmm.

A couple of points that I did not see in the above:

* Tires: I have the new R14s and IMO they are GREAT (check out the various videos and ratings) but my only comparison is above turf or occasional R1 on borrowed tractor. Had in mud and over my lawn (occasionally wet) and no issues unless going tight in 4wd

* Unless you go to the biggest L or higher the lift is the same but ground pulling implements are the break-over point. I opted for simplicity and lack of emissions stuff and understand this engine is very capable but choked down to get under the limit. I plan on looking at the timing & rpm limiter later on after the warranty IF I feel the need then but also mess around with old cars etc.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I think the L4060LE will end up costing 35k-40k with the options and the few implements I need ( but no grapple)

For reference, I drive a 13 year old car and this will be the most expensive thing I've purchased other than real estate. I'm telling myself to look at it as an investment though, and that even in the worst case scenario, that these things hold their value pretty well and I'll probably be out only a few thousand dollars and get several years of use out of it, if I ever am forced to sell after a few years.

Based on browsing through the used tractor market it seems like if it is kept maintained and good condition etc, it should only depreciate 1-2k per year or so, does that sound about right?

I drive a 14 year old car and 18 year old truck. The wife's car is 9 years old. Hers was purchased used when it came off a 3 year factory lease. It was around $35k which is double the most i had ever paid and the closest to new I have ever gotten. I am a firm believer that low hour/mile used is a better value than new. Kubota tractors may be the exceotion to that rule. The new $25k L3901 I just purchased is the only new machine of any type I have ever owned. I debated between it and a 2018 with 170 hours on the clock. I could have got it for $19k. That is about $2000 per year depreciation. The new machine won out based on 0% financing over 7 years and a full factory warranty on a machine that might be challenging and expensive to repair myself. I am 70 years old and my zeal for that type of work is pretty well gone.

I keep cars, trucks, and tractors until they are totally used up so resale value means nothing to me. I made the jump from my initial choice of the largest LX / L2501 to L3901 for the size and additional HP. My advice has not changed - unless you are truly budget constrained dont buy anything smaller than your real operational needs. Ten years down the line you won't even remember the debate.

Dan

 

[Oliver]

Hello, I found this site when researching tractors and saw that Kubota makes some models that look interesting. So I appreciate any advice I can get from experienced users. I've never owned a tractor and I have about 150 acres of forest land that has lots of trails through the woods that often get trees down over them and I want to keep it clear. It also has a small lawn and gardens. I would be using the tractor for moving trees and logs, possibly hauling wood out of the forest, cleaning up brush and branches, moving rocks once in a while, and evening out dirt roads that often get ruts, and puddles in them due to them not being maintained......

I have about the same acreage that is mostly woods with trails but also a few smaller meadows which I leave grow for habitat then mow down each Fall. I'm not farming, pulling a plow, and a 60" flail and RC are all I need for the meadows. I find the L2501 about perfect for my needs, it's small enough to get into tight places it's basically the same size as the B2650 (LX2610) I had, only a little heavier and wider for more stability, and stronger overall. I ordered mine with a third function and use the grapple (almost as much as the buckets) for moving brush, rocks, fallen trees, etc. I say buckets because I have the 66" along with a 48 with tooth bar for digging. I find the rotary cutter simply too long and cumbersome on the trails so I used the flail. After buying a ZTR for mowing I actually found it, with the deck raised all the way up, to work better running over the trails so that's what I've been using.
The L2501 hst lifts and pulls anything I need to do plus it's a simple machine to maintain and no DPF. When I'm doing loader/grapple work, pulling the rear blade on the gravel drive and road, basically most anything but mowing, I'm running the tractor around 1,600- 1,700 RPM where it makes less noise and uses less fuel. This is one reason I went with the 2501, anything bigger has a DPF and the way they're supposed to run is at (or close to) maximum rpm all the time to minimize the regen cycles. If my work required more horse power I would go with an L3901 or larger and just deal with running at close to full throttle all the time, but fortunately more HP isn't needed for my uses.
I've gone back and forth between turf and R4 industrial on the tractors I've had and went with R4's on the L2501 for a little more puncture resistance and stiffness. Turf's do a little better in snow but given my property isn't real steep and with 4wd the R4's work just fine. In the interest of better ride and easier to deal with a puncture I chose not to fill them up with liquid. Were I buying now I'd probably select R14's but I'm happy enough with R4's.

 

[alter]

I've put a deposit down on a Kubota now, with the ability to change between models once I see them in person, but I'm still waiting for the L4060 to come in. I mentioned to the dealer that I would like to see that side by side with the smaller L series, and as well as a MX5400 that they still have in stock, before I make the final decision on which. Dealer is extremely back-logged with work though so depending on which I choose will definitely affect when I can take delivery.



L2501- I like the dimensions for tighter woods work. have a lot of trees and will often have to drive in between them. Plus the price is nicest. No ETA on when I could even see one. Could take a long time to arrive and set up.

L4060- This seems like a good all-rounder with a lot of features. Larger will be harder to fit in tight places but should have enough heft to do some serious work. Could be set up and ready within 1-2 months.

MX5400-Even larger than L4060 but with higher capacities and bigger dimensions. Probably all the power and weight I would ever need but less nice features than the L4060 which as the HST+, stall guard, nicer seat with rider-centric controls, etc. Plus this may be too big of a tractor to start out with and be unwieldy in the woods. However this is available right now and is already set up.