Added Tie Down Points

[Lil Foot]

Copied an idea I saw on the forum earlier and added some tie down points to the front of the tractor.
The rear (with the backhoe mounted) already has a couple decent tie down points.

 

[85Hokie]

Bill

I did the same a while back - you will find that they work well too.

 

[Henro]

Copied an idea I saw on the forum earlier and added some tie down points to the front of the tractor.
The rear (with the backhoe mounted) already has a couple decent tie down points.
View attachment 56288 View attachment 56289 View attachment 56290

looks good!

Only thing I could think to add is if it were me I would make sure I used highest grade bolts, just to maximize strength. Might not be required in this application though...grade 8? Forget the normal high grade at the moment...

 

[Lil Foot]

looks good!

Only thing I could think to add is if it were me I would make sure I used highest grade bolts, just to maximize strength. Might not be required in this application though...grade 8? Forget the normal high grade at the moment...

The front bolts are hardened metric fine thread, the rear ones are just standard grade 2 1/2-13s that I had on hand.
I probably should change them out, but I don't think the tractor weighs much over 2500lbs, so it's probably a moot point.
I'm trying to find out the weight of the FEL & ROPs for just that calculation, I have everything else.
The clamp strength for a grade 2 1/2-13 is 5850 lbft, proof load is 7800 lbft

US Bolts - Tensile Strength and Proof Loads

Tensile strength and proof loads SAE bolts.

www.engineeringtoolbox.com

 

[Old_Paint]

Nicely done. I did it tow hook style. No rattling or rusting. Used the part number from Harbor Freight someone gave me in here. Love the safety springs, too.

 

[RBA50]

Lil Foot, The bolts in your picture are grade 5. Should be plenty strong for your use.

 

[Lil Foot]

Lil Foot, The bolts in your picture are grade 5. Should be plenty strong for your use.

Thanks for noticing, I didn't, just grabbed from the stash.

 

[swpflipper]

Having those up front make it so nice to tie down.
For those who don't have a backhoe, what are you using for the rear?

 

[dirtydeed]

Having those up front make it so nice to tie down.
For those who don't have a backhoe, what are you using for the rear?

I put a clevis on the drawbar and just run the chain through that. With or without backhoe. large enough to get the job done but still fit in the tractor toolbox. I believe it's 7/8" pin.

One caution....remove it and store in your tractor toolbox when you have a 3ph attachment on. I had left it on one time while flail mowing. Somehow, it turned to the sideways and got caught under the lower 3ph stabilizer. It bent the stabilizer when I lowered the mower down.

 

[kubotafreak]

Is everyone drilling the holes in the tractor frame to match the D ring plates? I was trying to find plates with the correct hole spacing to match existing frame holes, and having no luck.

 

[dirtydeed]

Is everyone drilling the holes in the tractor frame to match the D ring plates? I was trying to find plates with the correct hole spacing to match existing frame holes, and having no luck.

That's why I went with HF hooks as in post #5 above. No drilling necessary (for our B2650/LX2610 models).

 

[Lil Foot]

I used one existing bolt & drilled one hole. The tractor actually had two existing holes with the correct spacing, but the "D" ring interfered with a gusset/brace on the FEL frame.

 

[procraftmike]

Nice job! I need to bring my tractor back to the house this spring for my ROPS light install. Maybe I should add these tie downs right away as well. Seems like a pretty easy install.

 

[Old_Paint]

I used one existing bolt & drilled one hole. The tractor actually had two existing holes with the correct spacing, but the "D" ring interfered with a gusset/brace on the FEL frame.

View attachment 56381

I think those are the same D-Rings I put on the four corners of my trailer. No seam, no weld, just forged steel. Doesn't do much good to put tie-down points on the tractor if they don't exist on the trailer you intend to tie it to.

 

[Lil Foot]

The utility trailer i used to haul the tractor on had tie points at the front, but none at the rear. I added some u-bolts back there.
The LoadTrail dump trailer I use now has large welded in tie downs in all 4 corners.

 

[Smokeydog]

Welded 3/8” hooks and 1” D-ring to front bumper grill guard on m59.

 

[mcfarmall]

Heres what I did. Had to buy longer metric fine thread bolts from McMaster Carr for the hook brackets on the rear of the tractor.

 

[Crash277]

Existing holes on the 23s, with grade 8 bolts. These are some popular tie downs!! 5000lb capacity

 

[Toyman]

Don't have a pic right now, but I put (2) similar ties downs from Lowes on the front of my B7100. Matched up the weight bracket holes. I also ordered grab hooks https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DPMALRC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 that I installed at the rear draw bar. pretty quick and easy tie down on my utility trailer.

 

[PaulR]

I may do this at some point.
For the time being I've just done the front strap over the frame between the grill and the guard, and the rear threaded through the draw bar. Just two straps, I'm a rebel I guess.