Your pressure readings are inconclusive.
Remove the top of the heater box, just has a few screws. Set it to the side. Then remove the evaporator. The hoses are flexible but you still want to be careful with it. You can actually set it to the outside of the door and wash it out. Get you some good a/c evaporator coil cleaner, it works pretty good for getting most of the dirt out of the evap core. Let it dry out, then reinstall it. It's not really that hard. I do them at work, full a/c system check/cleaning on those tractors in the spring for about $250, including all the data to verify that things are working as designed. Ambients, evap temp, doors open vs closed, condenser temp, humidity, and a bunch of other things. I do it that way for good reason. If it were to come back in the summer for a/c not working, there was no question that it worked "last time it was in" (if they had it in for servicing), thus we KNOW to look around for issues.
I had an owner ask me to "improve" his a/c on a 8540 last season. One of the things that we did was tint the windows with the good 3M tint (well, we paid another shop to do it), AND we put a self-adhesive duct insulation on the bottom of the cab roof everywhere we could. Between the two, the windows will fog up in high humidity (normal for here) days in the hottest part of the summer if you don't turn the a/c temp up a little. Customer says he has seen 65 degrees in the cab but couldn't stand it. The pressures will change quite a bit based on the temp of the air inside the cab. On his, started out around 50 (about 235 on the high side), but as the temp inside the cab cooled, it would get down around 26 psi and start cycling the compressor like it's supposed to do.