50 hour service

[RalphVa]

Apparently the 50 hour service on at least the B2301/2601 and LX2601/SU want you to change both the hydraulic and HST filters at 50 but not the hydraulic fluid. Probably same on all Kubotas. At least you don't have to muck with suctions screen checks and all like JD says to do. I've never ever found anything on the screens; don't know why JD still recommend it.

Think it's the HST filter where one loses a lot of fluid if not quick enough in getting the old filter off and new one on. Doubtful it works well. Saw it on a Kioti. Didn't.

Thought about using the Shop Vac trick but the thought occurred to me "why not just extract the fluid and then pump it back in".

Any one done this?

I've both a Northern Tool "Ironton" 12v pump extractor and a DR oil extractor. The pump is faster, but its limp suction line can't be directed like the one on the DR can. Just pump into an empty diesel container and then pour or pump it back in when filters are changed. Wouldn't have to get absolutely the last drop out.

The dual pans on the engines will be a challenge. I'll probably just suck out what the extractor gets and open the drain plugs to find out which one it missed; might try sucking out oil inlet, too, to see if I get both pans. Did this on my first tractor and found NO oil came out. It didn't have the dual pans though. I absolutely do not like opening drains, with potential gasket replacements, etc. Use the oil extractors on everything now.

 

[AdmiralS]

Just did the service on our LX3310. Figured for the extra cost of a few gallons of SUDT2, why not just change the fluid when I changed the filters. Happy I did as there were some trace amounts of metals from wearing in of the gears.

Cheap insurance in my opinion and doesn't really add any more work to the job.

 

[Jchonline]

It wont drain it all…you have so little volume I would just take your time, remove each and replace. Don’t worry about loosing fluid. Replace what you drain..it cant hurt.

I did try to seal off the fill cap/breather on mine with a nail but it didn’t help much.

On the M62 there are about 12 gallons of hydraulic fluid….consider yourself lucky lol.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Apparently the 50 hour service on at least the B2301/2601 and LX2601/SU want you to change both the hydraulic and HST filters at 50 but not the hydraulic fluid. Probably same on all Kubotas. At least you don't have to muck with suctions screen checks and all like JD says to do. I've never ever found anything on the screens; don't know why JD still recommend it.

Think it's the HST filter where one loses a lot of fluid if not quick enough in getting the old filter off and new one on. Doubtful it works well. Saw it on a Kioti. Didn't.

Thought about using the Shop Vac trick but the thought occurred to me "why not just extract the fluid and then pump it back in".

Any one done this?

I've both a Northern Tool "Ironton" 12v pump extractor and a DR oil extractor. The pump is faster, but its limp suction line can't be directed like the one on the DR can. Just pump into an empty diesel container and then pour or pump it back in when filters are changed. Wouldn't have to get absolutely the last drop out.

The dual pans on the engines will be a challenge. I'll probably just suck out what the extractor gets and open the drain plugs to find out which one it missed; might try sucking out oil inlet, too, to see if I get both pans. Did this on my first tractor and found NO oil came out. It didn't have the dual pans though. I absolutely do not like opening drains, with potential gasket replacements, etc. Use the oil extractors on everything now.

I'm not sure about those models, but many Kubota tractors have multiple transmission drain plugs. Specifically, there is a plug on each final drive which is lower than the center plug.
If I were going to this much trouble, I'd drain those so I could check for water and debris.

 

[AdmiralS]

I'm not sure about those models, but many Kubota tractors have multiple transmission drain plugs. Specifically, there is a plug on each final drive which is lower than the center plug.
If I were going to this much trouble, I'd drain those so I could check for water and debris.

You are correct. The LX series have a drain right at the mid pto, and on each of the rear axle housings for a total of 3.

 

[michigander]

When I did mine I used the shop vac trick , hardly lost 1/2 quart mostly lost what was in old filters.

 

[OntheRidge]

I also used the shop vac trick, used a piece of pvc to fit to the oil fill. Worked like a charm, lost about 4 drops.

 

[bbxlr8]

Could just be that it's a Sunday night and I'm a bit fried but what is the shop vac. trick...?
THX

 

[bbxlr8]

Just saw ontheridges post & pic. I infer that you use it to pull neg pressure on the sump?

 

[OntheRidge]

Just saw ontheridges post & pic. I infer that you use it to pull neg pressure on the sump?

Exactly, I used the pvc pipe in case the fluid rose up some, so it did not get in my shop vac. Attach it, turn it on, pull filter, no leakage.

 

[bbxlr8]

Nice - thanks for the clarification. I have been working on old cars and in that hobby for many years and never heard of this.

For my full education (never too old to learn a new trick!) how much comes out otherwise? I know how "precious" the udt-2 is

 

[lugbolt]

extractors are awesome. One of the best inventions ever.

Deere likes you to clean the screen because it gets plugged with silicone worms, as well as sometimes the tractors sit on the lot for eons, and their fluid grows algae that plugs the screen. Did many of them brand new.

BX's and ZD's had some issue with the screens getting very dirty very quickly too. Mostly from silicone worms, remnants of liquid gasket that is used to seal the transmission up.

 

[Orange1forme]

I, too, just did ALL the fluids at the 50 hour service.

minimal added cost, heard it may lessen the HST whine(I have a cab) and it did some, and as others stated there were traces of "junk" in the fluids from manufacturing.

 

[B737]

You are correct. The LX series have a drain right at the mid pto, and on each of the rear axle housings for a total of 3.

same configuration on B2601

I change the fluid for the 50 hour service, nothing more than peace of mind.

this is 50 hour fluid that come out of B2601

50 hour fluid out of LX3310

 

[B2710]

same configuration on B2601







I change the fluid for the 50 hour service, nothing more than peace of mind.







this is 50 hour fluid that come out of B2601











50 hour fluid out of LX3310



I1

Wow, that looks like my fluid at 200 hrs...I normally use the shop vac trick if the fluid is not required to be changed... but I may dump it on my L3310 for the 50hr servive.

 

[nbryan]

At 50 hour change time I got the hydraulic sump filter all ready to go with lubed o-ring, and without losing 1/2 quart of fluid swapped it out real quick.

 

[jyoutz]

Exactly, I used the pvc pipe in case the fluid rose up some, so it did not get in my shop vac. Attach it, turn it on, pull filter, no leakage.

The dealer just told me to drive the tractor up on a 2x6 board on the side of the filter to tilt it slightly away from the filter. He said that works as well as the vacuum method and it’s simplier.

 

[GSD-Keegan]

Just did 50 hr on my 2601. Plugged the vent. Fluid was very clear compared to previous pics. Needed to add about 1 qt to refill. In my opinion not worth the hassle to do anything more than spin old off and spin new on.

 

[Millsertime]

Just did 50 hr on my 2601. Plugged the vent. Fluid was very clear compared to previous pics. Needed to add about 1 qt to refill. In my opinion not worth the hassle to do anything more than spin old off and spin new on.

Agree. I lost some but not much. I also used my bucket to lift my front end while replacing the filter. Not sure if it helped at all but as long as you are in a comfortable position and ready with the new filter, you won't lose much.

 

[NHSleddog]

On my B2650 I just replaced it all. I'm glad I did after seeing how it looked. With the fines it had in it, it will probably be the most important one in its lifetime.

You guys that didn't dump it and just saw a little fluid, are not seeing the whole picture. Dump the whole 5gal into a pan and drag a magnet around, you will be surprised.

My second change was much cleaner.

I have always gone by the Ford racing approach to breaking things in.