4wd b7100 manual trans, clutch. Update #2 it moves under its own power

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I really don't know if the pressure plate fingers have any adjustment, but from what I've read they come pre set.
As for the clutch rod the only picture I can find is in the IPL I will put up in the last post (I forgot)

Yes they should be pre set
To adjust, you would remove the cotter pin and then loosen or tighten castle nut.
If you still have it apart post a picture of the throw-out bearing.

 

[trial and error]

@AOW162435
I acually read that thread on Sunday so thank you for posting it here. It is possible. that the fork and sleeve have worn and would need to be replaced or built back up by a machine shop. However I would think that issue would build over considerable time. My pedal went from "mostly normal"
to a very long throw, in about a month or two, to me signifying something bending to a point rather rapidly, not metal wearing which I would think would take years (like that lever in (#11), which from the looks of mine has been repaired once before, I can see a welded area on it but can't tell.if that weld is factory. Anyway
.

 

[trial and error]

Yes they should be pre set
To adjust, you would remove the cotter pin and then loosen or tighten castle nut.
If you still have it apart post a picture of the throw-out bearing.


View attachment 107006

That us the one thing I forgot to take a picture of when I had it apart

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

@AOW162435
My pedal went from "mostly normal"
to a very long throw, in about a month or two, to me signifying something bending to a point rather rapidly,

Everything about this screams bent mounting plate.
You don't pull the flywheel back off and check the plate for flatness did you?
If you didn't check it with a flat edge it's still possible there is your issue, and a small bend on that plate will cause big issues in the pedal throw.

And if the throw-out bearing is in backwards that too will greatly effect the throw.
FYI: I've installed one backwards before, looked right when I installed it.

 

[trial and error]

Everything about this screams bent mounting plate.
You don't pull the flywheel back off and check the plate for flatness did you?
If you didn't check it with a flat edge it's still possible there is your issue, and a small bend on that plate will cause big issues in the pedal throw.

And if the throw-out bearing is in backwards that too will greatly effect the throw.
FYI: I've installed one backwards before, looked right when I installed it.

I'm going to pull it all back apart when I get home, do I have to pull all the plate mounting bolts off of the emgine plate behind the flywheel? Do I check across the crankshaft I don't mind doing the work but I need a couple references of what points to check across with a straight edge. While I have it apart I will take a picture of how I have the throwout bering installed (front and back) and maybe someone can tell me if they think it is backwards or correct.this whole thing is driving me up the wall. I sincerely appreciate everyone's input and just want to solve the issue.

 

[trial and error]

Also just to be clear this (pictured below) is the plate I need to check? All the bolts from the bellhousong pull up evenly and tight when we reassembling the two halves of the tractor.

 

[Lil Foot]

Look at post #54, pg 3, in this thread:

Third B7100 clutch in 4 years!?!?

January 25, 2019. My clutch friction plate self-imolated. Tractor suddenly started making a horible metallic rattle, like the fan was hitting something, then shortly thereafter siezed. A spring broke and jammed the clutch against the housing. I replaced the friction plate, pressure plate...

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[trial and error]

Look at post #54, pg 3, in this thread:

Third B7100 clutch in 4 years!?!?

January 25, 2019. My clutch friction plate self-imolated. Tractor suddenly started making a horible metallic rattle, like the fan was hitting something, then shortly thereafter siezed. A spring broke and jammed the clutch against the housing. I replaced the friction plate, pressure plate...

www.orangetractortalks.com

Ok now I can see what we are talking about. I'm about to split this pig for the 4th time and take some pictures and measurements.
Update I have already tweaked the clutch rod arm back into place and that has helped I have also straightened the arm which attaches to the clutch pedal etc with the turnbuckle that was slightly bent I have some slop in the pedal/linkage before it contacts the pressure plate I'm hoping with taking this apart and snapping some pictures someone can say the throwout bearing is backwards kr some sort of oressure plate adjustment or a tweaked engine plate is the source of the grief so here I go

 

[trial and error]

Look at post #54, pg 3, in this thread:

Third B7100 clutch in 4 years!?!?

January 25, 2019. My clutch friction plate self-imolated. Tractor suddenly started making a horible metallic rattle, like the fan was hitting something, then shortly thereafter siezed. A spring broke and jammed the clutch against the housing. I replaced the friction plate, pressure plate...

www.orangetractortalks.com

Alr9ght I took the plate off and put it flat on the bench with a straight edge across it. No noticeable warpage the gap in the middle from the gasket seems uniform. I also put the straight edge across the back edge and didn't find any warping i will post pictures below

I also took several pictures of the throw out bearing on its sleeve in hopes that I have mounted it backwards (or not)


As for measuring the pressure plate fingers to the flywheel do I do that with or without the clutch in place? and from what place on the pressure plate to where on the flywheel? Having the clutch in place would make measuring to the flywheel with any accuracy nearly impossible unless I'm missing something?

Photo dump: throwout bearing. I will post the engine plate pictures in the next/seperate post

 

[trial and error]

Below are pictures of the engine plate with a straight edge/new 4 foot level across it. The gaps in the middle are from the "gasket" that is still attached to the plate and look uniform IMHO

 

[trial and error]

PS: can anyone tell me the torque specs for the engine plate? As well as the pressure plate to the flywheel? The flywheel to crank bolts should be 40-43ft lbs and I went with 45 with my HF clicker torque wrench last time

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

All of that looks good.
The only other thing I can think of is if the flywheel is the wrong depth that would throw things out, but that's a huge long shot.
Did you download the WSM? specs are in there.
Other wise I can give you a chart of torque to bolt type and size
My specs would be tight but not over tight!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Re read the last post as I added info

 

[trial and error]

All of that looks good.
The only other thing I can think of is if the flywheel is the wrong depth that would throw things out, but that's a huge long shot.
Did you download the WSM? specs are in there.
Other wise I can give you a chart of torque to bolt type and size
My specs would be tight but not over tight!

Yeah agree that would be a long shot, nothing has changed with that, unless there is some sort of spacer that goes behind it against the crankshaft but I don't remember anything being back there, I will look at the IPL to verify.
Just to ve clear the throwout bearing is correctly mounted?
The WSM I downloaded had a similar chart for fastener size and type, but can probably just go with your advice of tight but not overtight, the feeling of just before one more ugga dugga turns into righty loosey lol (only half joking) I hand tighten all this stuff to final "torque" run stuff in with the cordless ratchet then hand tighten

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yeah agree that would be a long shot, nothing has changed with that, unless there is some sort of spacer that goes behind it against the crankshaft but I tldont remember anything being back there, il look at the IPL to verify.
Just to ve clear the throwout bearing is correctly mounted?

Yes it looks right, put your finger on the inner flat face ring, does it spin free of the outer ring and sleeve?

 

[trial and error]

Yes it looks right, put your finger on the inner flat face ring, does it spin free of the outer ring and sleeve?

Will look into that on the bearing,
Ok so the part on the sleeve stays stationary. The front, or flywheel facing side spins freely. The rear part or part facing the majority of the sleeve stays still

 

[Russell King]

Will look into that on the bearing,
Ok so the part on the sleeve stays stationary. The front, or flywheel facing side spins freely. The rear part or part facing the majority of the sleeve stays still

If you can post a video on you tube with a link here @North Idaho Wolfman will be able to 100% confirm or deny it is correct. I would not trust the words written if you have to split it again.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Throw out bearing a OK.
Now measure the clutch fingers when it's installed.
Like I posted earier.

 

[trial and error]

If you can post a video on you tube with a link here @North Idaho Wolfman will be able to 100% confirm or deny it is correct. I would not trust the words written if you have to split it again.

I'm defimately going to make a video if I can figure out how to upload it onto u tube, I've never done it but I bet it will take less time then splitting the tractor again lol

 

[trial and error]

Let's see if I did this right. Forgive the heavy breathing it is 90 something degrees in the garage 9 o'clock at night and otherwise silent in there besides my loud mouth breathing lol

Video of hand spinning the throw out bearing

throwout bearing kubita b7100

m.youtube.com