2nd problem with R-14 Tires!

[Mountainhill]

@Mountainhill you could always find another set of the check links/chains and modify them to use the drawbar as the attachment point. Asuming that its on the same plane as the 3pt pins. Get creative! That will allow a nice offset for yourself.

I don’t currently own any implements that attach to a drawbar, nor do I own a drawbar. My implements attach to the sway bars, on 3-point hitch, with the R-14 tires, these sway bars had to centered or very close, otherwise the tensioning turnbuckle would rub on the tires and not allow to offset a rear implement, box blade in my case.

I now have R-1 (Ag) tires, thanks to Ron at Halifax Kubota. If you plan on putting implements on the back of your tractor R-1 Tires is the only way to go. Works for Farmers!

 

[Kamado]

Gotcha. Drawbar to me is where a trailer would attach. Draw hitch maybe ?? Anyhow see attached pic of what i mean. You are still triangulated and could adjust the implement to your needs without the adjustment knuckle being a worry.

 

[Vigo]

Im a slight stickler for terminology but even I see the names of the 3pt arms as a little too 'unsettled' to expect everyone to have it down. You hear things like draw arms, lift arms, lift links, side links, 3pt arms, drawbar, etc, and there are several of those that have overlap with some other things but not with something else, etc.

I'm sure many have a better grasp of the 'best practice' terms than me, but i call them 'lower arms' or 'draw arms'. What people usually call a side link i call a lift link because it's less vague. I take 3pt arms to be referring to the lower arms because it seems everyone is pretty consistent on calling the top link a link and not an arm, so even though there are a lot of '3pt arms', i feel it pretty clearly refers to the lower ones. My .02..

There's also rockshaft arms, doesn't come up much but i can't imagine what goofy misnomers have been invented for those!

I've seen many styles of stabilizers that mounted in different places, but if someone would rather constrain their tire choices than redesign their stabilizers i get that. I can't leave anything alone so once the design of something bothers me a little im headstrong into changing it.

 

[Biker1mike]

clipped
I'm sure many have a better grasp of the 'best practice' terms than me, but i call them 'lower arms' or 'draw arms'. What people usually call a side link i call a lift link because it's less vague. I take 3pt arms to be referring to the lower arms because it seems everyone is pretty consistent on calling the top link a link and not an arm, so even though there are a lot of '3pt arms', i feel it pretty clearly refers to the lower ones. My .02..

My 2 cents. Per my Kubota user's manual.
First owner circled lifting rod for some reason

 

[jyoutz]

I haven’t ever seen a box blade designed to be offset like a rear blade is designed to do. Most people run wider box blades than their rear wheels to deal with that issue.

 

[fried1765]

Im a slight stickler for terminology but even I see the names of the 3pt arms as a little too 'unsettled' to expect everyone to have it down. You hear things like draw arms, lift arms, lift links, side links, 3pt arms, drawbar, etc, and there are several of those that have overlap with some other things but not with something else, etc.

I'm sure many have a better grasp of the 'best practice' terms than me, but i call them 'lower arms' or 'draw arms'. What people usually call a side link i call a lift link because it's less vague. I take 3pt arms to be referring to the lower arms because it seems everyone is pretty consistent on calling the top link a link and not an arm, so even though there are a lot of '3pt arms', i feel it pretty clearly refers to the lower ones. My .02..

There's also rockshaft arms, doesn't come up much but i can't imagine what goofy misnomers have been invented for those!

I've seen many styles of stabilizers that mounted in different places, but if someone would rather constrain their tire choices than redesign their stabilizers i get that. I can't leave anything alone so once the design of something bothers me a little im headstrong into changing it.

Often, "stabilizers" on TLB's are mis-described as "outriggers".

 

[jimh406]

If you plan on putting implements on the back of your tractor R-1 Tires is the only way to go. Works for Farmers!

I guess the rest of us should sell all our attachments.

 

[jyoutz]

I don’t currently own any implements that attach to a drawbar, nor do I own a drawbar. My implements attach to the sway bars, on 3-point hitch, with the R-14 tires, these sway bars had to centered or very close, otherwise the tensioning turnbuckle would rub on the tires and not allow to offset a rear implement, box blade in my case.

I now have R-1 (Ag) tires, thanks to Ron at Halifax Kubota. If you plan on putting implements on the back of your tractor R-1 Tires is the only way to go. Works for Farmers! View attachment 93562 View attachment 93561

All implements I have used on my MX work very well with my R4 tires.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

All implements I have used on my MX work very well with my R4 tires.

Agreed…only issue I have with implements is backho subframe in the way (only on narrow cat 1 stuff that the QH doesn’t mate to). tires have not been an issue.

 

[Mountainhill]

I guess the rest of us should sell all our attachments.

My point was, if the primary use of tractor is attachments on the 3-point hitch, than yes, R-1 tires, due to the width, allow for the most adjustment of the attachments. If buying a new tractor I would like to know this, so I can make an informed decision. If your doing more fel work then, yes, a wider/ stronger ( more plys ?) tire may be best for you?
As far as your attachments, I’d hang on to them. Just my opinion.

 

[jimh406]

My point was, if the primary use of tractor is attachments on the 3-point hitch, than yes, R-1 tires, due to the width, allow for the most adjustment of the attachments.

True that R1s give you more width if you aren't using a Quick Hitch. However, if you are using a Quick Hitch with compatible implements, you are limited by the Quick Hitch width. Once the Quick Hitch is installed, width is fixed.

 

[jyoutz]

My point was, if the primary use of tractor is attachments on the 3-point hitch, than yes, R-1 tires, due to the width, allow for the most adjustment of the attachments. If buying a new tractor I would like to know this, so I can make an informed decision. If your doing more fel work then, yes, a wider/ stronger ( more plys ?) tire may be best for you?
As far as your attachments, I’d hang on to them. Just my opinion.

I think a lot of us have pointed out that we use our 3ph implements with R4 tires and have no issues. In fact I’ve never heard of this issue before. I used to have a small JD tractor about the size of a Kubota B series and R4 tires. I never had that issue with the smaller tractor either.