1st problem is the inability to install ( ice) chains , without wheel spacers. Then yesterday I’m doing some box-blading and realize I can’t off-set, box-blade, beyond wheels due to width of R-14 tires. With R-1 tires, I could get the Box-blade several inches, out beyond the tire, by adjusting the 3-point hitch. This was great for cleaning up the edge of road where it meets the ditch, and doing work close to building, lawn or rock wall.
2nd problem with R-14 Tires!
- Thread starter Mountainhill
- Start date
Wouldn’t R4s have the same issues? Just asking cause the R1s are so much narrower.
I know this is a pain in the butt but if you had some longer draw pins you could run the 3pt arms outside the pockets and offset the whole box blade to one side that way.
It looks like the clearance issue is actually with your stabilizers, though. Another PITA idea would be to just tie up the one on the side that is hitting and make a temporary one with a chain diagonal to the other lift arm with a load binder or come along on it.
I know, i know. Half-ass workarounds.
It looks like the clearance issue is actually with your stabilizers, though. Another PITA idea would be to just tie up the one on the side that is hitting and make a temporary one with a chain diagonal to the other lift arm with a load binder or come along on it.
I know, i know. Half-ass workarounds.
TheOldHokie
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Same with R4's. Tread width is not adjustable and way too narrow. I will be adding 2" spacers to mine.
Dan
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Looks like a pretty stout and wide Category 1 Box Blade (is it Cat 1, or was it Cat 2 at one point with pins replaced?). Obviously not Cat 1 Quick Hitch compatible, if I was guessin'. First thought was a Quick Hitch and modify the BB to fit. Not sure that's easily attained.
Although it defeats the clevis-type pin on the BB, if you could reverse the lower pins to the inside. It would narrow the hitch, push it back a little, and allow a little off-set. I wouldn't recommend it, but it's low $$.
If you swap rears for R1, you will likely need to swap all 4 to keep the rolling circumference ratio in line to avoid binding the 4WD drive train. Big $$, as your wheels will likely not work with an R1 tire.
Honestly, I'd follow TheOldHokie/Dan's advice. Rear spacers are not cheap, but they will allow some freeboard to offset and also give room for chains.
Much less $$ than swapping 4 wheels and tires.
Although it defeats the clevis-type pin on the BB, if you could reverse the lower pins to the inside. It would narrow the hitch, push it back a little, and allow a little off-set. I wouldn't recommend it, but it's low $$.
If you swap rears for R1, you will likely need to swap all 4 to keep the rolling circumference ratio in line to avoid binding the 4WD drive train. Big $$, as your wheels will likely not work with an R1 tire.
Honestly, I'd follow TheOldHokie/Dan's advice. Rear spacers are not cheap, but they will allow some freeboard to offset and also give room for chains.
Much less $$ than swapping 4 wheels and tires.
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Box Blade is a Category 1, fit fine on my old L3800, with R1Tires. Yes, in swapping out tires front and rear have to be changed out. Have an ad on Kijiji now (Craigslist), to see if I can find someone to trade tires/rims with. And yes, you are correct, wheel spacers will solve the problem of installing chains and give me room to adjust implements.
Already have one of those
. Tends to spill gravel off one side? And yes, it would accomplish that task, in a similar fashion. Box Blade allows me to drag gathered material to desired location. I am just surprised, that a tire (R-14) that is billed as a combination of R-1 and R-4, would eliminate the functionality of side to side adjustment of the 3 point hitch.
Finally got rid of my R14’s, my dealer/salesman replaced with new R-1’s . Having had Ag Tires on my old L3800, I was forced to accept R14’s on my new L2501, due to, you guessed it “ supply chain/ inventory planning”.
The difference is day and night, better traction, wider stance(split rim), climb better over humps, rocks, ups dirt pile, ability to use and adjust sway arms on 3 point hitch, more ground clearance, no need for wheel spacers to install chains, harder rubber for longer lasting tire.
Going from an R-4, to a R-14 may be a wise choice, but for anyone who’s had R-1’s, moving to R-14, could be quite disappointing, unless your doing a lot of turf work. As for hard surface work, the R-4’s are going to outlast, by quite some time, the softer rubber, on the R-14’s.
If you have a choice (?)
consider the tire/wheel assembly , that’s works best for you!
The difference is day and night, better traction, wider stance(split rim), climb better over humps, rocks, ups dirt pile, ability to use and adjust sway arms on 3 point hitch, more ground clearance, no need for wheel spacers to install chains, harder rubber for longer lasting tire.
Going from an R-4, to a R-14 may be a wise choice, but for anyone who’s had R-1’s, moving to R-14, could be quite disappointing, unless your doing a lot of turf work. As for hard surface work, the R-4’s are going to outlast, by quite some time, the softer rubber, on the R-14’s.
If you have a choice (?)
consider the tire/wheel assembly , that’s works best for you!
Well, the side to side issue is why if i had a choice i would prefer a different style of stabilizer vs what’s on yours. I think mounting the tractor end that far outboard might simplify some things but i’d rather have more side to side adjustability and slightly more finicky stabilizers, personally. I just love having options. 
But glad the tire swap did everything you wanted it to. I feel like r14s are a tire segment driven by ‘residential’ tractor owner/usage because they aren’t better for dirt work than r1s and aren’t better for hard surfaces than r4s, so they seem mostly to cater to ‘lawns’ and perhaps some snow pushing. I have nothing against them but i feel like some of the r14 enthusiasm is just being relieved to have ANY option between r1 and r4 thats actually available in a good range of sizes, vs it actually being great on its own merits. But, this is just armchair tire opinions because ive operated on r1 and r4 but never r14.
But glad the tire swap did everything you wanted it to. I feel like r14s are a tire segment driven by ‘residential’ tractor owner/usage because they aren’t better for dirt work than r1s and aren’t better for hard surfaces than r4s, so they seem mostly to cater to ‘lawns’ and perhaps some snow pushing. I have nothing against them but i feel like some of the r14 enthusiasm is just being relieved to have ANY option between r1 and r4 thats actually available in a good range of sizes, vs it actually being great on its own merits. But, this is just armchair tire opinions because ive operated on r1 and r4 but never r14.
Wheel spacers aren't that expensive, and it sounds like you'd need them to use chains.
It sounds like R14s are on R4 type wheels, but could have been on R1 style that offset.
If you do decide to go spacers, make sure you choose the right width. I have OEM spacers on my L2501 with R4s.
It sounds like R14s are on R4 type wheels, but could have been on R1 style that offset.
If you do decide to go spacers, make sure you choose the right width. I have OEM spacers on my L2501 with R4s.
North Idaho Wolfman
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You can not mount a R4 or R14 tires on an R1 rim, they are way to narrow of a rim.
split rims for R-14’s ,that offset, would solve a few issues, no need for wheel spacers, provide for wider stance if desired. I suspect the split rim is more expensive, but it could be an option .
I didn't know if Kubota sold R14s for R1 rims, but R14s are made in a lot of sizes. Looking at tire sites, you can buy R14s to replace R1s and R14s to replace R4s. No idea why Kubota doesn't do split rims for the Ls. I don't think it's technically impossible, but maybe the axles aren't strong enough to handle that much offset weight.
North Idaho Wolfman
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The axles are plenty strong enough, they are designed to handle duals, so no issue there.
Kubota does offer split rims for L's just not in wide format rim.
R14 are of the same profile as the R4's they do not fit narrow rims.
I have to assume what you mean is that any r14 for a certain rim width is going to be so much smaller diameter than an r1 for that rim width that they can’t be considered ‘interchangeable’ on a given application. But in general im guessing you can get r14s to fit anything from a 5” wide rim to an 18” wide rim.
@Mountainhill you could always find another set of the check links/chains and modify them to use the drawbar as the attachment point. Asuming that its on the same plane as the 3pt pins. Get creative! That will allow a nice offset for yourself.
The R14's seem like a good balance of R4's and extra traction. Our township road guys are using them on their TLB and wheel loader and they said they work well for off road traction and road use.Well, the side to side issue is why if i had a choice i would prefer a different style of stabilizer vs what’s on yours. I think mounting the tractor end that far outboard might simplify some things but i’d rather have more side to side adjustability and slightly more finicky stabilizers, personally. I just love having options.
But glad the tire swap did everything you wanted it to. I feel like r14s are a tire segment driven by ‘residential’ tractor owner/usage because they aren’t better for dirt work than r1s and aren’t better for hard surfaces than r4s, so they seem mostly to cater to ‘lawns’ and perhaps some snow pushing. I have nothing against them but i feel like some of the r14 enthusiasm is just being relieved to have ANY option between r1 and r4 thats actually available in a good range of sizes, vs it actually being great on its own merits. But, this is just armchair tire opinions because ive operated on r1 and r4 but never r14.
