2017 Chevy Silverado A/C

RCW

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I know nothing about vehicle A/C.

Know a lot of you guys do.

A/C has gotten cool, but not cold this summer.

Compressor engages when turned on. Belt is tight and in good condition.

Cabin air filter is new, and good flow from vents. Pretty sure the doors are working fine in the truck's system.

Label says truck is R1234YF.

I see recharge kits for the low side.

This is an example:

A/C Pro R1234yf Kit 14oz (autozone.com)

Is that an okay way to try to get some cold air again?

IMG_6976.jpeg


IMG_6977.jpeg
 
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Fordtech86

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Is that an okay way to try to get some cold air again?
no, get a black light and glasses, it should have dye in it, I have very limited experience with gm, but I’ve done a few condensers on that year range. Or get it checked by someone, it doesn’t help the customer or the end tech by shooting it up blindly.
 
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DaveFromMi

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You should try a couple of things first.
High & low side pressures:
Screenshot_20240712-194348.png
Screenshot_20240712-194505.png


The top chart is based on fresh air intake and high blower speed.

Clamp a heater hose and see if temps get colder.

Too much refrigerant can cause problems as shown in 2nd chart.
 
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Torinodan

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Find a black light and glasses as said before. Condensers are know know for failing (cracking at the welds) and I just replaced my whole system twice due bogus counterfeit parts. 3 weeks of twice the warranty claims. Most condenser leaks can be seen without black lights and glasses. Google it and look behind the grill.
 
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DustyRusty

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The only time I have ever seen an overcharge in a system is when the owner attempts repairs not knowing what he is doing. If the system was low on refrigerant then the low cut-off switch would have disabled the compressor clutch. Something else is going on, but I am not familiar with how the modern systems work other than a blend door hanging up. If it blows cold right after starting and then gets warm, that would indicate a blend door malfunction.
 
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Torinodan

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I forgot, these are variable displacement pumps with a solenoid on the back bottom. The wiring is real tasty to rodents. The controls will add displacement on demand to put more refrigerant in the system. My wires were chewed as well and the cooling was intermittent at first. Bad connection wouldn't let it pump a full demand of refrigerant to the system.
When set to vent/max cold temp/high fan do the temps out the center vents ever get below 57 degrees? 57 and up is failing.
 
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Fordtech86

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It really needs gauges put on it first (maybe 😂)

my process for ac concerns…step one,pop the hood, start engine, is compressor on? If yes grab the low side line, if no, grab the computer.

is low side line cold? If yes, grab the computer, if no grab the gauges (and black light)
 
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chim

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You're not alone:

 
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RCW

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I checked the low side line and it was cold. Unfortunately I didn’t measure temperature.

I did clamp off a heater hose. Didn’t make a difference, but I didn’t run it long with the hose clamped off.
 

lugbolt

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blend door actuators are really really common failure points on GM vehicles. Hence one major reason (of many....) that the wife's car (Acadia) is going away ASAP. Problematic POS, been nothing but trouble since the day she bought it (new, BTW) in 2009.
 

Ktrim

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If compressor running and line getting cold shows you have a charge.
I've run across a rash of 3 expansion valves going bad lately. Unfortunately only one I made money on the other 2 on my 2500 ram and my wifes crv.
You need to check pressures.
 
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RCW

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Thanks so much for the advice!

I went to an auction this morning about 25 miles away. (Bought a coffee and water)

A/C obviously isn’t right.

Coming back I was tempted to just get one of those R1234YF recharge kits and “to hell with all your advice…”😳

Reality set in, and I’ll take @Fordtech86 ‘s advice and have someone look at it. 😉

Ford’s never steered me wrong before.👍

I’m due for NYS safety/emission inspection. Local garage isn’t Chevy dealership, but several of the guys are GM savvy.

On Monday August 5 I won’t have to go to work anymore…. not sure I can wait that long….🥵

(75% of the time I have the heat or A/C on with the driver’s window open and my arm hanging out).
 
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Daren Todd

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RC, just had the ac fixed in my 2016. Ac started petering out last summer (not blowing as cold) and then quit working last fall.

Ended up being a pin hole in the condenser.

Figuring a rock hit it and caused the pinhole leak.

Anyway, they replaced the condenser and recharged the system. Blowing nice and cold now. 👍👍👍👍
 
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Ktrim

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Little of topic but. Unfortunately our wonderful government imposes changes on us. Not giving a damn what it may cost the consumer.
I do not do 1234yf, I refuse to buy new equipment as I only do it part time.
A 10 lb cyl of 1234yf is $500.
How do you tell customer their recharge is going to cost $100 plus on average just for the gas. Plus overhead for 8k machine and labor.
 
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Moose7060

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I think you should treat yourself to a new truck as a retirement gift! Problem solved!
 
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Torinodan

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My leak also led to the pump locking up, shredding the belt, and sending chunks of hot rubber everywhere.
If you do have to replace the condenser (or any parts) insist on getting genuine AC Delco or GM parts. Way too many knock offs out there.
 

Daren Todd

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Time to consider a new truck with a warranty. I'd suggest a Ford.
Good luck finding one with 5.0, they all come with the ecoboost now.

After driving both, I prefer the 5.0 hands down. Big difference in torque and response.