2012 B2620, won't turn over and no lights

b2620bad

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Jul 2, 2018
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You may want to get a breaker instead of a fuse so it can be reset. Fuses are fine to use also but buy several since you will be going through them until you find the problem.

The suggestion is to eliminate the starter solenoid from the wiring and see if it still blows the main fuse or not. Putting the test light in will still draw power through the wiring that activates the starter solenoid.

You have it correct.

Update: I made up a makeshift breaker from parts obtained at an auto parts store. Thanks for that recommendation as it worked without having to buy multiple slow burn fuses.

Per the process ctThomas outlined, I believe it worked. I unhooked the lead from the solenoid to the starter, and hooked the test light to that lead. I attached the breaker to the female end of the slow burn fuse connector. I then turned the ignition key to the position just short of start. The lights on the dash illuminated. I then proceeded to turn the key to the start position, the test meter light came on (was not as bright as full power but it did light up), and the breaker proceeded to get quite hot. So is it now safe to conclude that the starter solenoid is bad?

This has been a bit of a journey but Ive learned more about my tractors electrical system from his process and I am most grateful for the help provided in the posts. Thanks to everyone that contributed.
 

Russell King

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I am a little confused about the breaker…what amperage rating breaker is installed? Why couldn’t you just plug it directly into the tractor wiring plug. If the breaker doesn’t trip off at 30 amps draw, you can damage the wiring from too much amps and heating the insulation on wiring to it’s melting point.

I don’t think the breaker should get hot. That means it is on the way to tripping (blown fuse).

I think this indicates that the wiring from the solenoid back to the fuse has a short to ground and that is why the fuse is blowing. If it was a bad solenoid then it was out of the circuit and not effecting the fuse at all.

Please let others confirm this diagnosis before you dig in too far.

EDIT: changed 40 amp to 30 amp. Confused by another thread!
 
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b2620bad

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Jul 2, 2018
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Friendsville, tn
Update: I made up a makeshift breaker from parts obtained at an auto parts store. Thanks for that recommendation as it worked without having to buy multiple slow burn fuses.

Per the process ctThomas outlined, I believe it worked. I unhooked the lead from the solenoid to the starter, and hooked the test light to that lead. I attached the breaker to the female end of the slow burn fuse connector. I then turned the ignition key to the position just short of start. The lights on the dash illuminated. I then proceeded to turn the key to the start position, the test meter light came on (was not as bright as full power but it did light up), and the breaker proceeded to get quite hot. So is it now safe to conclude that the starter solenoid is bad?

This has been a bit of a journey but Ive learned more about my tractors electrical system from his process and I am most grateful for the help provided in the posts. Thanks to everyone that contributed.
C842C7DE-F099-4169-B0C2-6A4AB7A1898D.jpeg
Could not find a breaker at any auto store so rigged up the one shown. Seemed like it should work. It’s a 40 amp breaker.
 

Russell King

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Okay thank you for the explanation.

I am still sticking to my previous advice.
 

BAP

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The breaker should not get hot if the only thing it is running is the test light and possibly dash light. The other possible culprits that would be activated during start are the fuel solenoid and the glow plugs if the key switch is only turned part way to the start position. I would unplug each one of those but one at a time and retry your test. Check and see if the breaker gets hot.
 

b2620bad

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The breaker should not get hot if the only thing it is running is the test light and possibly dash light. The other possible culprits that would be activated during start are the fuel solenoid and the glow plugs if the key switch is only turned part way to the start position. I would unplug each one of those but one at a time and retry your test. Check and see if the breaker gets hot.

UPDATE: Decided to put on a new starter, hooked up this morning, turned the key, dash lights came on, turned ignition key to start position, looking forward to hearing the tractor motor turn over but nope the slow fuse blew once again. What a let down! Was convinced the starter was the issue but so much for being convinced. Anyone?
 

Jim L.

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Jun 18, 2014
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As others have pointed out, sounds like a short.

First step is to make a working copy of the wiring diagram. You will use this to mark good and bad circuits with different colored hiliters.

Second step is knowing that the fault can be isolated using the tractor fuses and harness connectors.

I recommend isolating the front lights circuit by pulling all other fuses but its circuit fuse. If the lights are not working, then it is the bulbs, the switch, the fuse block, the path to ground, connectors... This is why a diagram is needed for testing.

Finding a short is a matter of isolating each circuit (lights, starting, etc.) checking and taking out of the system to focus down on the short or malfunction.

Make sense?
 
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jnschnit

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May help if you have a service manual. I had one but sent it with my B2620 when I traded it in for my B2601. I searched and it looks like the Kubotamanual site has it on sale for $30. Its a pdf download

 

BAP

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Have you tried the suggestions that I made earlier of unhooking the glow plugs and fuel solenoid one at a time and turning the key to see if your temporary circuit breaker heats up? You are asking for help but you don’t seem to be using the advice that people are giving you to help track down your problems. You definitely have a short somewhere and it isn’t the starter.
 
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Jim L.

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"Have you tried the suggestions that I made earlier of unhooking the glow plugs and fuel solenoid one at a time and turning the key to see if your temporary circuit breaker heats up? You are asking for help but you don’t seem to be using the advice that people are giving you to help track down your problems. You definitely have a short somewhere and it isn’t the starter."

BAP's suggestion is what I would do on my machine, or close to it.
 

cthomas

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You need to follow the advice and report results. Or willy nilly keep replacing parts, Or take it to someone that knows how to diagnose an electronic concern.
 
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ve9aa

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You need to follow the advice and report results. Or willy nilly keep replacing parts, Or take it to someone that knows how to diagnose a electronic concern.
PARTS CANNON🔊
 
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