2003 Silverado Duramax injectors

[sheepfarmer]

TJ the truck was nearly full, only about 80 miles after fill up. I have the niggling thought that the leak near the tank might have resulted from his poking around there at the beginning of this saga when he still thought this truck had a lift pump and was going to drain the tank. In any case the lines are rusty mostly in the places where they are supported by clamps etc where water would collect, and should be replaced sometime. I sure hope there is nothing cracked inside the tank. The fuel gage has always worked perfectly.

Ray yes the fuel filter was replaced first as soon as it got off the tow truck.. Before that I know it was replaced at its100,000 service about 1.5 years ago, and it should have been replaced about 6 mos ago as part of oil change 29 pt service etc, but I am less certain about that.

The whole thing is giving me nightmares, I didn't think of this as an old truck, after all I drove my 79 F350 for 24 yrs, but I know with old houses and old plumbing everything you touch crumbles and leaks.

 

[skeets]

but I know with old houses and old plumbing everything you touch crumbles and leaks.

Sounds like old men too,,,lol

 

[CaveCreekRay]

I reread the original post... DOH! (filter changed)

I doubt that all your injectors failed at once. I had an injector go in my 160K 4Runner after parking it on a warm day. Thought it was going to jump off the motor mounts. I was able to drive home on 5 cylinders and the bad injector cleared once the engine cooled down underway.

It sounds like one of the earlier recommendations on the unit that drives the injectors. Does this Diesel have a timing sensor? My buddy has a 2000 Avalanche that dies every 50k because that sensor quits. The injectors must have a sensor to sense engine crank position. Many of GMs diesel motors are based upon gas platforms.

As for used injectors, I did research on my gas injectors and the cost for new was only $25 per injector more for zero time units. It still ran $600 for the parts. Took me a couple hours to swap them. Runs great now.

Keep us tuned.

Ray

 

[BadDog]

Sorry, but you say "many of GMs diesel motors are based on gas platforms"? Not since the failed experiments of the 70s. Then in the 80s (83?) came the "Detroit" 6.2 followed by the closely related 6.5TD. This was an all new platform designed by Detroit Diesel with a primary goal of fuel mileage and longevity, though the success latter is somewhat debatable. As far as I know, neither had a single part in common with any gas platform. I've got an 84 1/2 ton 6.2 that gets about 22 mpg and has something north of 300k on the clock, love that truck, nice and simple and just keeps running. But it's no tow rig, so in '02 I bought a 2500HD Duramax/Alison. The Duramax is also a purpose built new design done by Isuzu. Other than the early injector problems (which haven't bitten me yet, though I'm just waiting) this has proven to be a very successful design, but again, does not have a single part or design even distantly related to gas platforms. Back in '02 (I think it was?) one of the sr guys at GM was asked what was the most powerful GM motor, and his response was that if you removed the factory de-tuning, it would be the Duramax by a large margin. Which seems pretty accurate since mines been running at roughly 600 HP as my daily tune since about '04, and that required nothing but a tuner, larger open exhaust, and a relatively minor upgrade to the trans. All good now after some 12 years of regular driving and towing up to 15k gross through the mountains. You're local, so you know what it means when I say it will easily hold 80 in OD up sunset fully loaded (just over 15k gross most trips with the buggy, gear, spare parts,...). That's a long pull at 6* gaining a lot of altitude fast, and lots of passenger cars overheat if running the AC. And it's towed that all over the SW, and a few coast to coast runs. Anyway, in my experience it's been a very solid platform, and though it still looks almost new, it's not been babied at all, it's just well maintained.

I'm sure one day I'll take it out for groceries (almost never travel any more) and it's come home on a rollback with fuel dripping from the exhaust (and the dip stick), and I'll be cursing the engineers the buried the @#$# injectors, but it hasn't happened yet.

Good luck on finding this gremlin, hopefully it will be a good truck for you when you get past this.

 

[armylifer]

Sheepfarmer, you mentioned in one of your posts that you were looking for a WSM and that you put a bid on eBay for one. In case you did not get that one yet, I can recommend the site below as a source for one. I have used them in the past a couple times and they are reasonable with their prices.

http://www.repairmanual.com/

 

[sheepfarmer]

Thanks Joe! Last night I got impatient with a no response to my bid which included the note "can we discuss shipping" since his $12 shipping was for book rate, not exactly fast. I have never used ebay before so wasn't sure how one might communicate with the seller. So after no response decided he wanted all or nothing and I paid the full amount, and hoped he'd at least put them in the mail today. No such luck.

Today I had to pick up gear oil at an auto zone and noticed they had the cheap Haynes manual for the Silverado diesel engine for $24. Wasn't expecting much, but it is on my level, which is not very high. I can at least follow what this mechanic is doing. His and their recommended trouble shooting paths for fuel problems are not exactly in the same order

 

[armylifer]

I have been following your drama with some interest because I also own a Duramax Chevy. However, I have not had any of the experiences that you have. That does not mean that I never will though so I am reading about your travails with some interest.

There is another website that I used to visit regularly that I want to share with you. It is http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/

I have not visited that site in so long that my account seems to be deactivated now but it has always been a great resource for me in the past.

I hope that you get this figured out quickly. Good luck!

 

[Tooljunkie]

Haynes and clymer manuals arent all that great. When i was troubleshooting transmission trouble on a pt cruiser i bought (garage said it needed trans)
I bought a manual. After much reading and disappiontment i ordered a factory manual. Discovered it had a computer in the fender, corroded through the housing and filled it with water. So a set of books was 80 and a used computer was 40. Coulda put a trans in and still needed manuals and computer.

one customer provided a wsm when he brought in his Talon in for service.

 

[D2Cat]

I have the complete set of WSM for my Dodge diesel under neath the back seat. Figured if I was on the road and had trouble I'd at least have a clue what to do, or provide them for someone who might be able to do the repair.

 

[armylifer]

The most important tool I have in my Silverado is an OBDII code reader. I bought it at Harbor Freight several years ago and it has saved me from having to walk for help on at least two occasions when my truck went into limp mode. Once was a time when my air filter got packed full of ice in a snow storm and another time was when the truck went into limp mode for no apparent reason while I was driving on Forest Service roads in the back country. I used the code reader to read the codes, diagnose the problem, and clear the codes so the truck would drive again. That code reader is the best $39.00 insurance policy I ever bought.

 

[sheepfarmer]

Yeah, I had the manuals for the 79 F350, which I had bought in a fit of enthusiasm right after I took that Powder Puff Mechanics course (yes that is what they called it). Covered such useful things as changing a tire, and the very kind instructor helped me rig up a jack stand support and suitable amount of leverage (4 ft pipe) that I could actually do it on my then new truck. We also got to mess around with carburetors which were my favorite. Partly because you don't have to crawl around under the car to get to them .

Wish I'd bought the manuals with this truck, but I'd decided there wasn't a snowflake's chance in Hades of my taking a wrench to it. Well I'll have a set now if that guy ever mails them.

 

[sheepfarmer]

This Haynes manual at least has the location for where you would plug in a code reader. I had been reading with great interest all the posts where people had done that, thinking to myself well that would be nice but I don't have a clue as to where it plugs in. Now I do

 

[BadDog]

I've looked on and off over the years for a good set of shop manuals for my '02, mostly on ebay. For the older square bodies where I have a range of manuals including main chassis, electrical, and several supplementals. But I've had very little luck with finding newer manuals. If a source is found, one that doesn't cost a significant portion of what the truck cost new, I would be very interested myself.

 

[D2Cat]

I bought one of these about 5 years ago. It's an OBDII code reader, but you can determine what functions you want to watch (as you drive) on your engine. You can choose and change them with the push of a button. I leave it in my daily runner, but can change it to another vehicle in a couple of minutes.

Since it plugs into the OBD port it fits any vehicle since 1996 (I think it is). If you leave it in your main vehicle and another vehicle needs checked, just unplug it and switch vehicles. Read the code and clear it.

https://www.scangauge.com/

 

[sheepfarmer]

Update: the truck is back in its assigned spot in the garage! Got a text this morning that said it was running and after the thermostats opened he would test drive it. Didn't hear any more until 3 pm so I thought the worst, but he wanted to bring it by. It now has:

2 new batteries
Idler pulley
High pressure pump
8 injectors and associated fuel lines
Fuel lines from tank forward
Fuel cooler

The final diagnosis was a leak in the fuel line. The fuel cooler connector was too rusty to use, so that was needed (he said). We went over the parts receipts, and it ain't cheap for those parts. Most of the smaller pieces came from a dealership, including the fuel lines which he said didn't exactly fit and are held in place with wire ties . Haven't crawled under there yet to look.

So when I said what do you want to do about the bill? He said what do you think is fair? For the parts that it didn't need like the pump and the injectors I had said earlier that I would pay for the parts but wouldn't like to pay for the labor, and I stuck with that. He seemed to be ok with that. He has had my truck since Oct 21, I am still worried about it being fixed well on the one hand, but taking those injectors out is a pain. I drove him home and it drove ok, but my garage smells like diesel fuel. It certainly doesn't smoke at idle. So it remains to be seen if everything else is ok, or if in the course of taking it apart something else is broken.

So what do you guys think I should do? He is going to come back on Wed with copies of receipts etc and I said could I write a check for half this month and half next month? He was ok with that. I have no clue as to what the labor will be on the stuff other than the injectors, no idea how to figure out what a reasonable charge for the fuel line issues would be. On the one hand I don't want to be so mean and stingy as to treat someone badly, on the other hand I don't want to be taken advantage of either.

 

[D2Cat]

The fuel smell could just be from what dripped, and is still on the metal frame and other iron, as he worked on replacing the lines, etc.

The cost is hard to say, but I wouldn't get into too much negotiating until you have the printed bill in from of you. Until it's in writing he can give you a reduced rate on something, but hide that cost somewhere else.

Be sure to drive it all you can before you get the bill so you'll be satisfied the smell isn't a continued problem, and that everything is working to your satisfaction.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Well it appears he did a lot of work, and it seems he has somewhat of a concience. It it going to be pricey,as long as the job done is up to some level of good workmanship.
I agree with the diesel smell being residual,unless he had some way to pressure wash away the residual fuel.
If you plan on using his service again bake him shortbread cookies. i know it makes me happy.

Im almost 4 weeks into repowering a 1959 dodge regent. Motor,transmission,rear end and power steering. A large amount of fabrication and detail work. Im definetly not getting my regular shop rate,about 1/3 but i am having a good time doing something challenging. And old school to boot.owner brought it down late october and once it rolled in i havent stopped working on it. Took 1 day off.

 

[CaveCreekRay]

Perhaps I missed something...

With a low pressure leak, you should have smelled fuel that dripped on the floor of your garage as soon as the fuel pump kicked on. Perhaps the "killer" leak started on the freeway and that was what killed the motor. Same with a high pressure leak but, I don't know the plumbing on your fuel system. If the fuel high pressure side blew somewhere, the spray would have soaked quite a but until the pressure dropped off. Some diesel systems run at several thousand psi.

You folks in the "Salt Belt" have a host of issues we never see down here. I am always a huge fan of pre-emptive maintenance. When I had the radiator out in my car, replacing the water pump (a known issue with my brand) along with the idler tensioner (another known issue) and a few other parts was, to me at least, just common sense. I was right there and that meant for $300 I had a new motor from the front of the block forward. Coming back another day to do these would be a huge pain as you can barely see them with the radiator in.

Your injectors were a known issue. Now you don't have to worry about them. Having had one fail around town, the vehicle is barely driveable with one cylinder down. That anvil was always hanging over your head.

The other issue was the potential for rusty fuel lines. From what everyone says, the engine in your truck is fairly problem free, as long as it can get sufficient fuel to run. Except for your gas tank, you have all new plumbing from the tank to the engine. What is not to like? You have replaced several parts that were either going to fail, or had failed. It was just a matter of time. As long as he doubled up on the $.001 zip ties.

Put into your pricing consideration what a dealer might have charged for this repair. Today, unless a dealer can pull a code that doesn't have an end item, they are often no better at troubleshooting than this guy. Been there done that. "But, the truck runs really rough when the AC kicks on!" "Well sir, we aren't seeing any codes so there must not be a problem." -And "troubleshooting" is a black hole you can throw money down at $110 an hour at most dealerships. Also, many dealers will hit you the full service "time" allotted for each part swap even though you can do them all in series for less time that the cumulative total. With a really shady dealer, changing one injector might run 2.5 hours of labor. For six injectors, the time would only be 4.0 hours but the unscrupulous dealer might charge you 2.5 hours times six injectors... 15 hours labor (at $110 an hour!!!). Just sayin...

I would not hesitate to pay this guy for the parts and his time because he has zero-timed your fuel system on a fairly high mileage vehicle. With oil service and other routine maintenance, the engine should continue to perform for years to come. With the known issues on your vehicle, I think this guy did a good job of troubleshooting from one end (tank) to the other (injectors). Injectors often fail at operating temp or after heat soaking, as was my case. Had he not swapped your injectors, come next summer, you could have been stranded again, after a stop at the store.

Considering the cost of new vehicles today, keeping our older ones running will continue to cost more but nowhere near replacement cost for the whole vehicle.

Ray

 

[skeets]

TJ how about some pics of that old MoPar, and just HOW OLD SCHOOL ARE YOU GOING????
I love the old MoPars, I had a 1960 Belvader 318 and 3 speed auto push button a back seat you could get 3 couples and a truck you could hide an army

 

[Daren Todd]

TJ how about some pics of that old MoPar, and just HOW OLD SCHOOL ARE YOU GOING????
I love the old MoPars, I had a 1960 Belvader 318 and 3 speed auto push button a back seat you could get 3 couples and a truck you could hide an army

First car was a 67 Belair back in high school. Was back when you could fill the tank with a $20 and get change back. Used to run a taxi service during exam week and give fellow students rides home. We would pack 11 people in it and have everyone dropped off within an hour. At $10 each Car had the 250 straight 6, with a 2spd automatic. Used to make around $600 that week after gas