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$700 for two years is a better deal than $400 for one year. If you don't want to pay the $700 for two years (I wouldn't), then you definitely don't want to pay $400 for one year.

At that point warranty is just insurance. On a BX1880 there's not a lot that would go wrong, and most of what would go wrong wouldn't be likely to cost more than a couple of grand. If a 2% chance of costing a couple of grand would be a big problem for you, extend the warranty. If a 2% chance of...

Front tires are industrial/bar tires (otherwise known as R4), rears are ag tires (R1). You're not really supposed to mix and match tires like that, the rolling circumference of the R4 and R1 is a bit different. It's not the end of the world if you only use 4WD on grass (as you're supposed to)...

That BX2670 is unreasonably cheap, something about it doesn't add up. Yes, a BX is what you should buy. You could definitely consider buying one with a loader and selling the loader as someone suggests upthread - I bet you'd end up ahead.

Full service on the B2601 over the past 2 days. 400 hours. Emptied engine oil. Taking the cap off the top lets it flow out faster. Replaced filter. Put two drain bolts back in, refilled. Cursed stupid funnel with a filter in it that runs incredibly slowly. Cut down a milk bottle as a funnel...

BX2350 was the plastic one. I had one, all the panels were broken. On the upside, I bought it real cheap, and mechanically it was sound despite having been abused by the apprentice in the place that owned it. They're hard to break. If you're genuinely never going to use the 3pt or the loader...

L5060 has a turbo. And would be a great machine. I get not wanting to void warranties, but.....once the machine is 2-3 years old, most of what could go wrong has gone wrong. And I'm pretty sure it only voids the bits of warranty that relate to things the turbo could plausibly impact. If putting...

The L2501 and the LX2650 have about the same capacity on paper. The LX is a machine made for homeowners. It's got a lot of alloy castings. They're still strong, but it's a lot lighter machine. That means it won't rut up your lawn, you can run a MMM, you can trailer it easily. It also is the...

At elevation you will do better with a turbo - it doesn't lose as much power as NA does. I don't think an L3902 has a turbo, so whilst more power is good it'll still lose quite a bit of that more power at altitude, I think you'd benefit more from looking at a turbocharged model. I think some of...

I speculate that there's lots of them for sale because lots of them are sold. BXs are the highest volume tractor sold in America, right? Stands to reason that if there's more of them sold new, there'll be more of them sold second hand - every one of those tractors will eventually end up on the...

If you want a trailer, then on paper the Bobcat is more tractor with more add ons, and lower hours. Depends what value you put on Kubota v's Bobcat/Kioti. The LX2610 is the same tractor as the B2650, with very minor changes. It is larger frame than the Bxx01 series. Nothing wrong with a...

Now I think you're overthinking. I think the MX is at the top end of what you should need, and I wouldn't go to a shuttle shift unless you're doing a lot of ground engaging work. I'd expect you can pull the shed, you just might pull it slower. It's not a task you'd do every day. There's always...

Great tractor, good decision. I think you could go down to the L-60 series, but no reason to. MX is a good size machine, and better to be bigger than smaller. The tractor is the thing you buy once. If you buy without a cab and want one, you have to sell the whole tractor and buy a new one. Do...

It's a governed engine. You can be running at PTO revs (2600-2800rpm on my B2601) and using almost no fuel if there's no load, and you can be using a lot if you're working it hard. Running my chipper, it sips fuel. There's not much load in a chipper other than when you feed it big logs, most of...

I suspect the old (stretched) belt is 129", rather than the OEM spec being 129". Looks like the OEM spec is 119".

Not quite. But did get me to do a google. I see a few threads talking about similar things: https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/threads/pioneer-coupler-tool.1561799/ Which has this picture in it, which may give some ideas...

Horses for courses. I choose to have one machine that does everything I need. I don't want to maintain multiple machines, and I like to get value from the machine I own. I don't find taking the MMM off to be all that hard, and many of the tractor things I do I can do just fine with the mower on...

Do you have a wife, neighbour, child, random guy walking down the road, who'd unplug and replug them for you a few times? That'd make it way easier. I'm trying to recall whether I saw a sort of tool that'd clip on and help disconnect pioneer couplings. I have a vague recollection of a fork...

I agree with that, but yeah, any BX will do way more. For the property you describe a BX or a B would be a good fit, and really give you way more capability. If you're like me, you'll buy that G1800 and two weeks later you'll be working out how to hitch a trailer to it, and a few weeks later...

It does sound like a seating issue or connection issue, or some random junk floating around that can float in and block stuff up. So cleaning all the connectors and reseating is great advice. Acknowledging your limitations, my best guess is the hydraulic guy will come out and reseat them all...