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Jumping the starter with jumper cables doesn't kill a starter unless the starter was bad previously or the procedure was done incorrectly. It's the only method to determine if your issue lies on the high current starter side of the system, or low current trigger side of the starter solenoid...

The frame dimensions between the L2900 and L3010 are identical. I run a Woods BH7500 backhoe and have used it on both machines without issue. Mine has the older "ladder" type subframe.

Unless you're going to use it for rear 3-point operation, I don't think it's gonna work. That blower was designed for a previous generation of machines from what you have. You'd have to fab your own subframe and figure out a way to piece together driveline parts to make front blowing possible.

I do have the original operation and parts manuals from 1984. If you're up against a timeline, I can take pics of all the pages and email them to you.

I attached a pic of the driveline for the B2551. The subframe is meant to fit a variety of machines too.

I'll try to snap off a better pic sometime, this is the closest thing I can find on my computer. It's not uncommon to find them missing. Usually the battery leaks acid and eats that shutter plate to nothing and eventually falls out......

There was a post about two months ago with a new B2401 owner complaining about the exact same thing. Apparently, that particular model has an overrunning clutch that is pretty noticeable.......

Ahh yes, the infamous $130 mid-pto cap.

Once you get your transmission squared away, it's critical you properly adjust the deck limit linkage per the manual. If it's adjusted correctly, the deck can't drop low enough to uncouple the slip-shaft. The same is true when raising the deck. If not adjusted properly, you can raise it too...

The two fuses referenced (#6) in the workshop manual are in the main fuse box. The only fuse on a 3010 external to the box is the slow-blow. You'll have to pull the dash again and examine the shutdown circuit and module. If I remember correctly, it's in the vicinity of the stater relay and...

The engine stop feature is controlled through a timer module. You can read about its operation in the attachment. The ignition switch shouldn't be your problem, but you can always put the old switch back in to test that theory (assuming you didn't pitch it). There are two fuses that provide...

EDIT: Russell, I just read your post (sorry it was a long one and I initially skipped over it). I basically repeated everything you said. But it's worth repeating because I believe we are correct in our thinking.

Use a set of jumper cables and manually connect the battery terminal of the starter to a good working battery and see if that spins you over. Ground the battery as close to the starter body as possible. If this works, your positive cable/terminals could be bad, or bad ground beyond the cable...

It sounds like the magnetic coil has an open somewhere in it. If it's working properly, it will engage the pulley when +12V is applied to it. If you hooked it up directly to a battery bypassing any switches, it's most likely shot. I assume you grounded it when testing? It grounds itself...

I was out looking at mine (the one I said never existed, ha). It does appear you can adjust the seating depth of the switch to some degree. Once you loosen the lock nut, it appears you can rotate the switch body to bring it in, or back it out. The only way to tell if it's seated at the...

Applying 12+V at the starter solenoid terminal will cause it to spin the starter. You may need to find a way to keep the fuel solenoid in the run position or it may not fire up. If your finicky switch acts up on you, it might cause the fuel solenoid to shut the pump down, hence a need to...

Tighten up the slop on your control lever. Should be a 10mm nut. If the lever isn't keyed and your slop is excessive, maybe the unit isn't responding?

Messicks lists the bolt as part# 01123-51230. A quick search indicates this bolt should be a M12x1.75x30mm. Torque values for this would range 57.2-66.5 FTLBS

Question, how can you tell it's a crack vs weld separation by looking at that pic? To me it looks like the latter, and have experienced that on my drawbar receiver.

Especially when it's burnt. I prefer kerosene as the chaser:cool: