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Scary. I sure hope that one involved some sort of electric clutch! My front mount blower came with this extension to turn the mid-PTO into a front PTO: (with yet another, different, spline shaft. Is there a rhyme or reason for the variety of forward-facing PTO shafts on these things?)

Calling the splines on the front of the crankshaft a "PTO" is kind of stretching things a bit. There is no way to disengage and it runs at full engine rpm.

Re: engine problems I don't know if that engine has a water pump or not, but in another recent thread I recommended a product called Block Seal, by CRC. I have found it to be a very effective repair for a cracked block, provided the directions are followed religiously. Someone else mentioned...

That is an interesting point, I forgot about the lack of water pump. There must be some circulation in the system, but is it too low a velocity to stir things? The CRC MSDS lists the SG as 1.37, so it is denser than water. On the other hand, looking at my tractor, the cores run vertical...

That's a cylinder head bolt. A/F leaking from there indicates one of 3 things: 1. bolts not adequately torqued 2. head gasket leaking between water jacket and bolt hole 3. head or block cracked between water jacket and bolt hole. Assuming the bolt is tight, then the "right" way to fix it is...

I see it as the apex of a triangle. He's well braced against sideways forces with the diagonal bracing to the front of the tractor, no? I'm planning on my own B7100 FEL build in the near future and was thinking of shamelessly stealing this approach. (which is why I was asking after dimensions ;) )

Infrared temperature probes are notoriously inaccurate, despite their high precision. The lens is looking at a cone, not just the spot indicated by the little red dot, so they indicate the average of an area that increases with distance. They measure radiant heat from an object, which can vary...

Interesting idea the way you went to the drawbar mount instead of the rear axle. It looks to simplify the construction and the drawbar mount should be equally capable of taking the force of pushing the blade into the dirt pile. Did you record the measurements of your subframe by any chance?

I would get it if it's a good deal. Worst comes to worst, you can always flip it without losing anything. However, I suspect it won't be as big a problem as you think. PTO horsepower is a nice guideline, but torque is really more important anyway and I would suspect your 2 cylinder diesel has...

I may have gotten two manuals confused -- the 3 part is the I&T aftermarket condensed service manual? It does touch on some HST stuff, but then, it really only touches on any stuff. Better than nothing, but missing a lot of details. Edit: just looked at the I&T and it does show the second...

Just for the heck of it, I drove around in circles this morning on hard-packed sand that retained tire tracks well and allowed tires to slip. In 2wd with the left brake locked, the left rear wheel circumscribed a 4' diameter circle in the sand. In 2wd with the brakes released, the left rear...

Ok, it's been a few months since you asked this, but I have found the solution on my own B7100 HST-D. First, make sure the pedal shaft is adequately greased via the zerk on the shaft. If that is not sufficient, then there is an adjustment that is not described in either the WSM or Owner's...

I'd say you are probably right about the lack of charging at low RPM. Since it's parked outside on the lawn, connect a small solar panel charger. Batteries don't like being deeply discharged so your battery will last longer if you keep the charge up.

It sounds like the previous starting attempts were enough to work the air out of the lines. I'm new to this forum, but not to other mechanical forums. A tip: For the highest quality advice, it is important to be as precise, accurate and detailed as possible when describing problems and...

Wedging can be an effective way to make a firm connection that won't pull out. EG: most drill press chucks are simply pushed on to a taper, and removal requires some effort. I'd try lifting with the hoist again, while applying heat with an oxy-acetylene torch rosebud and/or shock with a hammer.

Please define "will not turn over". Mechanics will define that as meaning the starter motor does not engage and crank the engine when the key is turned to "start" position. Many non-mechanics mean to say that the engine does not start even though the starter motor engages. Here are the two...

I've tried it. "Cutting" is a bit of an optimistic term -- "Slagging" is probably more accurate. As in big messy pools of lava. It's not neat nor pretty and far from efficient but yes, you can eventually make a hole in concrete.

Depending on the circumstances, a heli-coil can be stronger than original. Soft materials in particular can benefit from both the larger diameter of the heli-coil itself in the base material and having spring steel threads against the fastener.

I'm guessing the actuator came from Princess Auto. Where did you get the gear reduction motor that's rotating the chute?

I don't have that machine or a schematic for that machine, so I cannot be of specific help. However, here's a little tip that can help in the troubleshooting process: replace the fuse with a small 12v lightbulb. Solder a pair of wires to any available 12v bulb and crimp a male spade connector on...