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The only thing that fuse supplies is the AC and blower relays. A total of maybe a half an amp total to power the coils in those relays. If the switch were bad it would have to be shorting to ground which is possible but you should be able to see and measure that at the pigtail off the switch...

First thing is to unload the parts cannon and then start testing with a multimeter. See attached

The shaft looks like it is still in place, other wise it would be dropped down into the governor ass'y. If the shaft is actually twisted off it can be replaced. Just remove the four nots that hold that plate in place and pull up. The governor spring attaches to the lever and all you have to do...

No electric shut off on that vintage machine. Probably goes to the fuel gauge or one of the wires seen under the fuel tank.

Looks like they welded it together rather than bolting or coupling it somehow. I suspect they welded it crooked.

That is where the seat bracket attaches. It is a through hole but does not go into the housing iit is entirely external.

Sorry I just reread your last post and you are saying the nuts that hold control lever to the governor shaft are missing? That is interesting. but shouldnt directly cause a runaway condition. It could however cause issues if the governor lever were to slide down into the governor assembly

When you had the injection pump out and remove the delivery valves out did you remove or alter the position of the barrels that the brass sealing washers seal against? If they are the style that is not held by a pin it may be possible you have one or both in a way that you cannot achieve a no...

The L225 does not have a vent like shown for the 185. The fill cap between the shifters and the rear cover has a small hole drilled though one of the wings into the transmission housing. The get plugged with whatever and cause the oil to be pushed out the shifters when hot. Remove the fill cap...

If you can find a local fuel injection shop to test them for a reasonable fee I would do that first. I am lucky I have a local guy who retired from a large fuel injection and component rebuilder in the Northeast. He now does a bunch of work for tractor pullers and such and only works on older...

The pin that was broken is to equalize fuel delivery between each pumping element. There should be shims in the followers that the plunger seats against to equalize timing between the pumping elements. Basically this is a task that you need an injection pump test stand to complete. The roller...

If it is truly fuel in the oil it is more likely the transfer or lift pump. It could also be tractor hydraulic fluid which would most likely be the pump shaft seals.

Is this with just a cold engine? They will often smoke quite a bit when cold. Try running it with a load to see if it clears up at all. If it does not it could be injectors, timing or possibly poor compression. Maybe post a video of it cold and then warmed up.

Blue can be excess oil bypassing the rings, or it could be unburnt fuel. White to grey can mean water/coolant or improper timing. Timing can also be a bit blue. Black is incomplete combustion

Don't forget blue smoke as well

The correct Kubota pn appears to be HH150-32094 which crosses to B179

The screen is accessed on the left side of the transmission case opposite the suction tube. There is a cover with 2 bolts and a spring under it that holds it in place. Like Dan said wash it in a clean solvent and blow it out from the inside to the outside. If damaged or too contaminated buy a...

Then as stated previously the issue is most likely piston, pin or rod related. But you can have the pump tested at a qualified pump repair center.

If you haven't removed the pump yet I would recommend swapping # 34 and 4 injectors to see if the issue moves. I doubt the issue is the injection pump as over fueling generally produces black smoke