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Did the shop possible assemble the steering cylinder with the barrel reversed?

M30 is the size of the fastener shank/thread. That would make it 46 mm which is close to 1.5" Buy a 1.5" wrench from Harbor freight or a 18-24" adjustable. Just remember when using an adjustable wrench the fixed jaw should be positioned away from you when you are pulling it toward you or vice versa.

Unfortunately that will require a new bevel gear set. The entire differential will need to be removed, gone through and reassembled.

I played that game by mistake once in 1984. After dropping 20 gals of hyd. oil on the floor I have trained myself to make sure my circuit is complete or has a method of managing that flow LOL.

Yes flow will through the the tilt/bucket spool and operate the lift/boom circuit but backwards. If the tilt/bucket spool is shifted it will block flow completely and open a main relief if this has one. If it does not have one, well then I would say it is a game of Russian roulette.

My bet is that your supply line from the adapter block to the inlet port on the valve and the line from the PB port to the adapter block are reversed. On a PB type valve block this can cause your complaint.

I can attest that my L4310 has not seen Kubota oils since it's first oil change and then it was probably UDT or the old SUDT not the latest formulation. It has 3k hrs. and has not had an issue or faltered using Mobil 424 and TS Premium. I am not saying that Super UDT2 is not a premium product...

Sorry I mistook your quote including Rotella T6, which is a group 3, as what you are using. Also you would not need a ginned up group 3 as there are group 3 oils that meet the specs of many group 4 oils.

It is basically a group 3 base stock with a touch of group 4 PAO. Like Dan said most synthetic oils in North America are a group 3 oil with modifiers..

FFL licensees are now required to hold 4473's for the lifetime of the business and at that point you can hand them over to the ATF for safe keeping.:sneaky:

Does the problem occur when you are moving or just sitting without trying to propel the machine? If while trying to move likely that one of your charge checks are not sealing due to contamination or damage. If while sitting there not moving it could be your charge relief valve. This is assuming...

Two posts so far and both to advertise a vendors product that costs about $5k to get a package that is useful. I think that if a vendor wants to advertise here they should be doing so in the vendor section.

Probably a KC120. Do a search for that model and you can see if that matches up

Do not use anything abrasive on the plungers or barrels. Any metal removed will loosen the incredibly tight tolerances and excess leakage will occur. Also make certain you workplace and the components are much cleaner than the pics you attached. Do not remove the locating pins in the housing...

Interesting, my L225 the headlight bulbs are the same size bayonet as an 1157 bulb.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NV7LLU2/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_19?smid=A6AY1HFZHO49U&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSDLZ3M/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_18?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1 You can usually get the pigtails at a good auto parts store as well. I am sure you can get them under the...

240 grit is not a bad choice. The only I may have done differently is hone with a 220-260 grit straight hone and touch up a with a 320 grit ball hone to create a plateau finish. As long as the rings are installed correctly I would run it and see what becomes of her.

Like the wolfman said as long as you installed the pistons and rings correctly you should be OK. What grit ball hone did you use and what angle crosshatch di you achieve? If too coarse a grit it could cause lower compression until the rings seat in but that could extend the seating time and...

And they're back!

As @Fedup said the bearings and spacer are going to create a solid assembly and there is no adjustment for gear position. I suspect the correct assembly process is to assemble without a gasket and the bolts finger tight. Then measure the gap with feeler gauges and adjust the gasket thickness...