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I passed along all the info we collected on rebuilding the fuel pump on the F2400. He pretty much laughed and said he can easily do it. I asked him where he got his info. You Tube! I then asked what was his query on you tube to come up with all his info. He said he just typed in "Kubota F2400...

I have a friend that is a maintenance man at a local Catholic school. What he asked me is light years above my pay grade regarding the school's F2400. Bottom line the engine was leaking fuel and he determined it was from the injector pump. He tore into it and now he has parts that came off/out...

I was so easy...

My bearing was shot! All but 2 of the balls were there and the outer race just fell off in my hand. It took a little bit of time but it worked like a charm! I took a little stone grinder and a Dremel tool to gently grind the inner race. When I got close to breaking through .... it just popped...

George.... I remember the "little" ball earing that rides on the cam plate that is actuated by the movement of the fwd/rev pedal. It was ca challenge to get to with out having to split the tractor... but I finally got it.

Oh Lord.... Deja Vue.... My buddy's Case 245 has the SAME clunk sound! We thought it was in the clutch/pressure plate area also. :unsure: He's had the tractor for a few years and it's done it for as long as I can remember. The clutch was on it's last legs since the day he brought it home... so...

I can easily justify $500 shop bill for a front wheel bearing and seals replacement. But here's a suggestion.... depending on your mechanical expertise, available facilities and proper tools .... it might be advantageous to invest in a Kubota Workshop Manual (WSM) for your tractor. I bought...

This is how I solved the water in the fuel issue.

Fez... I have some old threads regarding the 9210 Husco Monoblock Valve. I think you'll find them very helpful. Good luck and may the force be with you!

Guys! Here is a follow up on the Case IH 245 hydraulic valve change over. With all the help I got from you all and suggestions as to where to look for additional info on his tractor.... I found ALL the hydraulic diagrams from the tractor, to and through the valve and then on the the bucket...

That's another consideration... space is really limited on this thing. Alternate valve mounting options is even more limited... Retrofitting my valve was pretty straight forward... I'll keep you all posted..

Folks my best friend has an ancient Case IH 245 compact tractor mid to late 80"s vintage. The Case 7QA loader Control Valve is just flat out worn out and is going to be fitted with a replacement valve. I have attached a diagram showing the OEM's valve installation to the 245. All I can see are...

It is a common problem on BX mower decks. I have two friends that own BX 2370's... the Anti scalp adjustment sleeve breaks off the mounting bracket. Their fix was to reweld the sleeve on but reinforce it with heavy metal plates welded to the sleeve AND on both sides of the bracket back to the...

Well guys here's the deal.... My wife and I got married when we were 18 yo. She was 5'2" when we got hitched. My thoughts were at that time at 18 she had at least one maybe two growth spurts left in her. She did ... just not vertically :rolleyes: ....

Actually that's not a bad idea. She's tall like 6' 2"

Guys.... She ended up doing pretty well. She did not like the idea of selling the tractor herself. She just did not want to deal with it and it was worth a little money left on the table for her peace of mind. I worked on her behalf with a very well known and respected Kubota dealer in our...

I'd like to monitor this site also.... but keep that to ourselves. Would not think of letting wife know;)

Based on what I have seen (or think I've seen) that is in the ball park....

My neighbor, an elderly widow, is selling her husband's BX2370. The tractor has 1192 hours on it. It has an end loader, RCK 60 MMM {new Kubota blades), wheel weighs, brush guard and a Cat 1 draw bar. As far as maintenance ... it was lubricated every 10 hours of operation, engine oil/filter was...

I should have mentioned the easy way to get the race off... I used a Dremel Tool and a cone grinder to slowly cut it.... took maybe 20 minutes. When it got razor thin ... it just popped apart and I slipped it off with two fingers.