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Hi GreensvilleJay, ctfjr, thanks so much. Looks like a great idea. I'll put a meter on the charging circuit and see what it actually delivers (manual says "up to 15.5V") to determine whether I need one diode or 2. If I go the bridge rectifier option, how should that be wired in? Like this...

This might also apply to changing the lead-acid battery on your tractor to LiFePO4, but for me its about my Honda TRX500 quad bike. Specs for LiFePO4 automative 12V batteries say the charge volts needs to be 14.6VDC or less to avoid damaging the battery - even if the battery has a built in...

Not daft, does your metric selection have course, medium and fine threads? Or get a thread pitch gauge onto the handle.

Got a 3 spool valve with joystick from China a couple of years ago, works well, doesn't leak. I don't know if the spools are hard chrome or the o-rings buna-N, it has load check, can provide more info if you aren't afraid of buying from a different continent :-)

Thanks. It looked to me like the relative sizes (front vs rear) were different from original tyres and might lead to 4wd binding.

Impressive! Thanks for the photos. The wheels... are they just to get it mobile (different from the ones in the original parts photo), or what you intend to use?

Thanks, but really I only know a bit about mine, this forum has been an invaluable source of info and you have contributed a lot too.

Mine had that and it turned out that the brushes were shagged. But better to do the other checks first. The recommended brush lengths in some manuals are wrong. Bonus finding on dismantling the starter: the steel ball in the "magnet switch" :-) was missing, easily replaced.

Thanks Henro, I'll try them.

OP are you certain a mower deck isn't somewhere else in the barn, on the property...??

Does anyone know of an English language website that collects manuals for old machinery - like my 1970s Someca K28 hay mower - and makes them freely available? Like Kubotabooks.com does for our tractors. Reason I'm asking is that I've translated the French operation, maintenance and parts...

Yeah I know, but there's no law against it :-) Probably should have prefaced my post with "I know this is an old post but ...." and who knows maybe the OP is still around somewhere. Hopefully both his ticker and his tractor are still going strong. I've always been interested in failure...

Thinking about what might have broken the crankshaft... was the harmonic balancer/detuner on the front of the crankshaft OK? I've never heard of a problem with one, but perhaps something happened to it, does your tractor have a crankshaft driven aux hydraulic pump or anything else out the front?

Do you have throttle wide open when cranking?

I had something similar after having the injection pump overhauled, it seemed to be just a priming problem. Only #1 and #2 had erratic or no delivery, rest were ok. Unfortunately I can't remember what I did to fix it, but running the engine as suggested elsewhere would probably sort it out.

Like others I appreciate your willingness to share, and other's willingness to discuss. Debate is great for getting a range of views, and in the process of reading your thread I've learned a lot. So please don't be shy about further postings on the same or different topics.

From tractordata photos looks like Fiat 450, 460, 480, and may be 500 have same nose shape as M4500, the Fiats had headlights mounted on each side of the nose, not on front. In any event the head lights can be added somewhere suitable.

If you need genuine Kubota WSM pdf for the M4500DT PM me.

@fish2fry Did you find what caused the blown o-ring? Could whatever caused it be also responsible for lack of prime? Is the new o-ring the exact same size as the original? Wondering if we are treating the symptoms not the cause/s.

Informative video, well done.