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Great, I'm glad you got. It's easy to identify the new part. All that frustration, just so you can go to work.

Nice tractor, enjoy.

Your first post was yesterday afternoon, if you kept trying you may have caused air to become entrained in the fluid. I'd suggest letting it sit for 24 hours. If this is the case your pump/pumps are cavitating. Just my .02

Did you put in what you took out including filters? Is the fluid at the correct level?

Be reminded that there's a spring that goes under the filter.

I believe the down position is not what you think fully clockwise is off, fully counterclockwise is on, facing the valve.

As always do as you feel is best. It could possibly be the regulator. Charging systems that use regulators in my opinion are always problematic. I prefer an alternator with the built in diode. Not knowing what use you have for your tractor, if you have an immediate need to use it, then separate...

The diagram doesn't show a solenoid If it shuts down when you turn the key off, you have a solenoid. Before this event when you wanted to shut the engine down did you pull a red knob rod out (manual fuel cutoff) and turn the key off?

I'd recommend first disconnecting the battery. Yes you can run a striped down version. The wires melted due to a short or major overload. Did any fuses blow? Separate the affected wires to determine the extent of the damage, if not too bad then can be reinsulated with shrink tube and crimp...

It's not a frozen stud, it's a character builder. Good luck

Once the cover is removed, determine if the threaded holes are through the casting or if they're blind holes, if threaded through you'll need sealant as Wolfman said, if blind then the anti-seize will suffice.

50 years and run hours are two different things. The amount of rust below the crack indicates that you were losing coolant. If you want dependability and reliability keep up with repairs when first discovered and perform those repairs to the best of your abilities and within you financial...

In your first picture by your index finger is that a crack in the cover, if so will you repair the crack or replace it? If other methods to remove the remaining stud doesn't work, could you cut the cover to release the stud then remove it. If this cover is part of the head assembly then would...

As always do as you feel is best. I agree with the others, I'd remove the fan and make it easier to deal with the stud removal, I hope it doesn't happen but if the stud twist off leaving the threaded portion in the block you'll have a mess. What you don't know is weather the stud is frozen in...

Recap, a "V" deep enough that if you went in, could flip a UTV, downhill, straight, erosion, doesn't rain much. How did the "V" get there to begin with? Whatever you add to bring the "V" up to grade needs to be incorporated and compacted into both sides of the trail to act as a unit. If water...

As always do as you feel is best. You're correct to wait for drier weather. I'd consider breaking up the soil down to at least the bottom of the "V" and then crown it. If you have a cultipacker seed it. If not and you have R-4 tires then load the bucket wit bricks, seed it and walk the tractor...

Nice tractor! If you haven't any hard money up, consider buying a kit from Summit install it yourself and shop for a grapple that suits your needs then go to work.

Is it possible to upsize the bolts? Is it possible to install a bushing in the frame with the OD the size of the hole, the ID the size of the bole and the same thickness as the frame.

Consider a couple of loads of sand, it'll tighten it up. Just my .02

Keep the one you have for tamping in fence posts and cutting roots in a hole. Google "True Temper" 11562500, 66inch pinch bar. If you bend it you're a very strong person. Carrying it around a work area will give you a workout. It works great for fitting 8,10 and 12 inch SDR-35 pipe/fittings...