Don’t understand bolt setup on l1500

[xmikew]

Hi all!

Replacing the coolant housing on l1500. Besides the fact that one bolt hits the fan assembly the other issue is this post and nut setup. How are you supposed to turn a rusty post when the nut comes off. There are two like this out of six. I got the one in the picture out because the nut was rusted on.

I can’t take off the housing without taking the post out or removing the fan mount which appears not removable. Cast onto the engine?

thanks much!

- Mike

 

[Justasquid]

if you can't remove the fan, you can try to use some red loctite on the nut and stud, it may hold enough to remove the stud from the engine. If that doesn't work, you can use so JB weld. If that doesn't work, you can weld the nut to the stud. You will have to buy a couple of new studs and nuts though.

Having said that, doesn't the fan have to be removed anyway? I'm assuming you will have to remove the fan to install on the new coolant housing. Is there an internal snap ring on the housing where the fan shaft goes through?

 

[xmikew]

if you can't remove the fan, you can try to use some red loctite on the nut and stud, it may hold enough to remove the stud from the engine. If that doesn't work, you can use so JB weld. If that doesn't work, you can weld the nut to the stud. You will have to buy a couple of new studs and nuts though.

Having said that, doesn't the fan have to be removed anyway? I'm assuming you will have to remove the fan to install on the new coolant housing. Is there an internal snap ring on the housing where the fan shaft goes through?

Thanks for reply.

If I can get the post out I can get the housing replaced. The fan/bolt
Isn’t really the issue but the mount. Neighbor is coming by to weld a nut on one of the bolts that I sheared the head off on. I’ll see if he can weld a nut on the post so i can get it out. That was my original plan but still not sure why 4 of these are bolts and 2 are post and nut. Maybe they expect you to some how remove the fan assembly mount and just leave the posts in but I don’t see how. Sure I could remove the fan but doesn’t help me.
Thanks again.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

It's set up that when they build it the gear case (timing gear cover) is off and would give you all the room to remove that housing.
All of them are like that to a certain extent.

 

[xmikew]

It's set up that when they build it the gear case (timing gear cover) is off and would give you all the room to remove that housing.
All of them are like that to a certain extent.

Thanks wolf man. I figure that fan mount must not be there when they assemble because the bolt was hitting the mount. No way possible! But I’m not taking off the dang gear case to change the dagum water flange!

 

[Motion]

As always do as you feel is best. I agree with the others, I'd remove the fan and make it easier to deal with the stud removal, I hope it doesn't happen but if the stud twist off leaving the threaded portion in the block you'll have a mess. What you don't know is weather the stud is frozen in the threaded hole or in the housing, big difference. Once the existing fasteners are removed, on any component the can experience coolant creep, I find it's good practice to replace all fasteners ( nuts, locks, studs, etc.) with new. Use the proper size thread restorer (don't use a tap they're for cutting threads) to chase the threaded holes once clean, coat the entire stud with anti-seize and ensure to bottom the stud into the threaded hole. I'd suggest using Permatex #3 on the gasketed surfaces. Just my .02

 

[xmikew]

thanks motion. I always get confused where coolant can be. There is a gasket between the engine and the water flange. I don’t think I would need to worry about putting thread sealant on the bolts?

taking off the fan doesn’t get me any room. It’s the mount the fan goes into. That mount is part of the gear case. I.e. have to remove the fan and the gear case.

 

[Motion]

In your first picture by your index finger is that a crack in the cover, if so will you repair the crack or replace it? If other methods to remove the remaining stud doesn't work, could you cut the cover to release the stud then remove it. If this cover is part of the head assembly then would it be quicker to remove the head? If you're successful on removing the cover perhaps bolts in lieu of studs may be a better application. The anti-seize isn't a sealant but helps retard electrolysis and aids in removal at a latter point. Not to expand upon your project but what condition are your fan bearings? Are they greaseable, sealed, shielded? If they has excessive play, it may be a good time to address them while you have an extra inch or so. Good luck

 

[xmikew]

Yes a crack. I did not notice until I was removing it so not sure if it happened in removal or if that was my leak. I have a leak somewhere on the flange or maybe where the inlet hose attaches. It’s hard to find with the fan whipping the coolant everywhere. The inlet was pretty corroded so replacing. Easy job. Only nothing is easy on a tractor pushing 50.

 

[Motion]

50 years and run hours are two different things. The amount of rust below the crack indicates that you were losing coolant. If you want dependability and reliability keep up with repairs when first discovered and perform those repairs to the best of your abilities and within you financial constraints. When performing maintenance look for other issues that need to be addressed. You don't want a garage queen nor do you want to run a good machine into the ground. Just my .02
"To be ready when needed, be ready when not needed"

 

[xmikew]

Phaw! Hahahahah. So the bolt on the fan definitely interfering with the angle to get out the flange. I guess I have to remove the radiator to get something on the front of the fan to keep it from spinning to remove the back nut? I don’t feel anything though. Sometimes a man has to find out for himself. It’s getting comical.

 

[xmikew]

my new plan. The nut wasn’t rusted so bad on the post. Jb welded the post. Will try to get it out tomorrow once it sets.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

When you get it all apart and go to put it back together.
You must use pipe dope or thread sealer on the bolts as several go into the water jacket in the head.
If you don't you could have coolant leaks at the bolts.

 

[xmikew]

Thanks wolf man. That’s what I usually don’t understand. When pipe dope is needed vs. not. I saw what I think was pipe dope on that long post and nut in the pic before I cleaned it. I’m guessing the other post stuck has it as well. The bolts I took out are pretty short and I did not see any remnants of pipe dope.

 

[Motion]

Once the cover is removed, determine if the threaded holes are through the casting or if they're blind holes, if threaded through you'll need sealant as Wolfman said, if blind then the anti-seize will suffice.

 

[xmikew]

Looking at the grainy parts diagram I see

01513-50860 is the one I think I got out. It’s pretty long. The one I think is still in is 01513-50822 which is just a m8x35. Hopefully will see it in full glory tomorrow

 

[Motion]

It's not a frozen stud, it's a character builder. Good luck

 

[xmikew]

Jb weld no go. It didn’t get in threads was too thick just got pressed out. I turned my attention to the broken bolt which was essentially the same problem now. I had been spraying it with penetrating oil each time I walked by. Ground two flats side on the stud. Put a pair of vice scripts on it and came right off.

what the hell. Let me just try to really clamp down on the center stud with the vice scripts and see what happens. Turned right out.

Only problem maybe is some oil came out of the center stud. I thought it was penetrating oil but definitely diesel oil.

problem? Or my design. How do I tell if the bolts are blind or not. The center stud definitely appears to end on the casting but maybe it turns down? How else would oil get in there.

Thanks all for help through this!

- Mike

 

[xmikew]

Definitely looks by design. There is a tube running from the valve case? Through the coolant case? Not sure of terminology. It appears connected to most bolts that secure the flange. Maybe a way to better cool the oil? Just going to use dope on every bolt.

 

[xmikew]

New flange installed. Will find out this weekend if it leaks. I sealed all bolts since I was not sure. Replaced the one stud with a bolt. New packing in place.

thanks for support everyone. This tractor definitely would not be running with out this community.

- Mike