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All this synthetic/dino talk got me to thinking back to when I got a VW diesel. VW recommended 15-40 which I tried until winter when I switched to 0-30 semi-synthetic. The difference in engine performance and mileage was like night and day. Engine revved easier had more power and went allot...

It is a little hard to diagnose because everyone has a different perception of things but these older engines are a bit 'lazy' except at the higher rpm's. But yours maybe has a problem. I would still change all the filters. Especially the fuel and air filters.

You say the engine pulls down...does it smoke when doing this? If it does not then change your fuel filter. I would change all the filters starting with the fuel, air, hydraulic etc. Need more details:confused:

Did you check the level before you added the oil? Sounds like you maybe overfilled it.

Its just a fact of life when it comes to any equipment. All radiator screens need to be cleaned regularly when working in dirty conditions.:D

I think I would have checked the glow plugs first.:confused:

If you let the engine set for a while and then crack the oil drain plug it will show if there is coolant in the oil. Anti freeze is very slippery and will leak out the loosened drain plug. If the engine has been run with much antifreeze in the coolant then it will be emulsified in the oil and it...

How did you replace the oil pump BEFORE you took the pan off?:confused:

Sounds like a fuel problem. Filter or pump.

Check your vent. Is your tractor stored outside? If it is your tranny may be full of water.

Yes a flare nut wrench is like a boxed end wrench with a notch cut out so the injector line or what ever will fit. It is 2/3 of a boxed end wrench.;)

You have to determine for sure where it is leaking. If it is from the injector line you may want to undo it and check the seat. They can get corrosion where the line mates with the injector. Clean that up and be sure to keep all debris from getting into the injector. Then tighten it down. Get...

Best to change a oil and then stick with it. As for light winter use, that will not harm anything and I would continue to use it into the summer. What causes the problems is when an engine sits for extended periods with dirty oil, the acids from combustion have a chance to work because the...

Dirty used oil sitting in an engine over the winter is dynamite. The acids in the oil work on the engine components and cause corrosion. Change the oil at the end of the season and then run it in the spring.

Just the nature of these units. They all seem to run cool according to the gauge, but the gauge runs low. They should have about a 180*F thermostat and that is where all of mine have run.

A blowing fuse indicates a dead short somewhere. Possible something in the regulator or............ just about anything:eek:

Ah....no need to feud. Just do as I say:D:D Any high quality oil designed for diesels will work fine including synthetic. The best rule for long engine life is to change the oil frequently.;)

It is a hydraulic clutch and everything is alright. I have tried other ones and some do the same and some don't. I was just curious as to how many are like this. It must be just a design weakness.:eek:

Check Kubota.ca. They are not sold in the USA anymore but thousands were.

Well I did do that earlier but got no response but here goes again. At idle with warm oil does anyone have the problem of the mower (pto) cutting out while the mower deck raises and then reengaging as the deck tops out?:confused: Now I know there are thousands of these units out there so I...