Wow that is low riding.. I'm not familiar with them on either machine. Is this how low they typically ride on the BX? I guess if you are on smooth level ground it would be fine but coming back up into a drive from the street might be rough if there's a curb.
Funny you should mention this because that's exactly what I had to do as you were probably typing this. Lol Is this what you meant?
It works.. will have to adjust top link most of the way out to level box for dragging and keeping front blade from cutting. I'm not sure it will level out before...
Most things are now days .. even if they do advertise Made in America. The build structure of it is pretty stoutly built! The only thing I'm having problems with is getting it QH compatible. My QH measures 27 3/8" inside to inside of bottom hooks, BB measures around 27" but the studs that stick...
I'm not sure if mine did or not.. I don't think so. 3-5 seconds should be plenty if not super cold and maybe up to 10 if super cold. I may be wrong but someone will correct me if so.
I had the B7510 from 2005 and it was not drive over, I don't think those came out till much later. If I remember right I just pulled the rear pins, disconnected drive shaft and released the front anchor. Really easy on concrete and I think my rollers swiveled by pulling the pin and turning them...
I get mine from the COOP farm shop, where most farmers go to fuel their tanks and it's red dye and probably the same they use for heat. I wonder why they would use two different colors.. two different grades of fuel?
Sounds like you're all set.. congrats!
I don't have a deck on this tractor but my old 2005 B7510 was a breeze to take off and on the deck so I'm sure their only easier now. Could you maybe store it upright against the wall somewhere.. use your bucket and chain to place it and then secure it.
Use it up, it's fine.. that's what I run in mine. Just dyed for off road and farm equipment.. non taxed and with the dye officials can see if you're cheating the system. Doubt they care these days!
Never heard of them, is that $200 including the shipping? I shop around too but if you are skeptical and can't find much info.. pass! I'd rather get what I know and from who I know, to much of a pain to ship back.. if you even get that chance.
This is one thing I try to keep an eye on. I was thinking about doing it yesterday and didn't get to it. Thanks to you for this post.. I was able to get to it today.wax onwax offNo rust but I can see how quickly it could happen.. can't handle rust!
Ok just to be sure of what you are saying.. you're going with bolts into the back of the hub instead of bolts going through the spacer into the hub?? I think that's a better fit also.. plus the spacers are beveled for tapered lugnuts. I always wondered about that bolt head grinding into that...
Good choice with the 2380, I would definitely get a rear blade to boot! I mainly use the rear blade other than when using FEL to get rid of excess snow. Your other choices now will be tires.. I have the r4s and they work very well for me since I do not mow with it. Mud may be a different story...