Search results

Spent the day finding switches, got no where with making the tractor move. Under the body-pan there are several switches, which one can see by peering under from the rear. Reasonably good access is acheived by removing 2 nuts and 4 bolts that hold the ~20" square piece of body-pan that holds...

I find the Messick's parts-looker-upper is very useful. And their parts pricing is pretty darn good, but when I checked into their shipping to Canada, the price-advantage fell away. But that does not diminish how useful and informative their parts-lookup is. I use the "print PDF" icon on the...

I find that the oil leak from the right front king-pin area is from the rotating seal of the "knuckle" that turns when turning left or right. Looks like that seal is leaking, running down the outside of the casting, and dripping off the bottom of the casting looking like its coming from the...

Wow... I thought my shop space was low-tec h, yours looks like fun. I just did main / rod bearings, crankshaft, etc on my L3130 HST. What I see there is a "thrown" rod. That will very probably have scored a crankpin journal on the crankshaft. That crankshaft must be removed to have that...

Still test-running a few minutes at a time in the shop, it moves back-and-forth, don't have the loader on yet but the 3pt hitch goes up and down and the steering works. So hydraulics and HST are functioning. A bit of a re-cap. About $2000 canadian pesos all in making the engine run again...

The LA723 loader on my L3130 had a stripped out cylinder "head" on the bucket tilt cylinder. From Kubota, the head and seal kit was like $300. TWO replacement Shur-Lift cylinders would have been like $380. In Canada, such things come from Princess Auto, which is kind of like Harbor Freight...

Filled with new ethylene glycol today. Ran it at various speeds today, for about ten minutes. No leaking, no puking of fluids, temp guage came up a couple notches from bottom, but not to middle of range. Battery light is on, indicating what is probably an alternator fault. Checked...

It runs!!! Got injection pump back from injection pump shop, $605 to dissolve the fossilized diesel fuel from one plunger and three delivery valves. That little pin indicated above does indeed move left and right with very little effort. Put it all back together, bled the fuel, and it...

Dan TheOldHokie, you are exactly correct. Putting seal kit into my bucket tilt cylinder was a waste of time and money.

The "near perfect match" of an off-the-shelf replacement cylinder, if one cylinder of an operating pair is replaced and the other not, there is the potential for the difference in piston area and length to have an undesired un-equal effect during operation. In the case above, the 0.40 inch...

If the cylinder is only leaking oil to the outside, you should only require the rod-seal. If the cylinder leaks-down, as in the load comes down, that may be either the piston seal or the control valve. Either or both. I just did cylinder seals on the loader of my L3130 using dealer parts...

You will have to press with a press or pull with a puller to get the inner race of that bearing off the holder. The clutch release bearing on my B6200 HSTD 4wd took about half of the force from my 10T shop press to get it to move off. Much less press for the new one going on. When pressing...

Another update... injection pump stuck. The #3 plunger is not returning the same as the #1 and #2. And the rod that links the three barrels together should slide fore and aft with very little effort. The governor, linked through a quite small spring, pushes on that pin to move the rod - fuel...

Somersault the tractor.... the amazing part of those videos is the behaviour of the bystanders, in this case a person in the white garment just sitting on the ground close by, chilling calmly within the radius of potential destruction should that somersault go slightly sideways. The person...

Update.... back from Perth... 46C (114F) there for a couple days. Crank - main journals and crank-pins all ground 0.4mm under. Crank installed, main bearings all plastigage 0.002" oil clearance. Main bearing 1 bushing and journal micrometer measured to also have that 0.002" oil clearance...

I agree that the stress on a loader and tractor while "lifting" a load is one thing. Having a load unevenly distributed between the two sides of the loader, then going over uneven ground, possibly steering left or right, would put twisting force on the loader frame far greater than would occur...

My bothers L3540 is 200 miles away, impractial to show repair. My L3130 is apart in the shop, doing main and rod bearings. The loader frames and bracketry on the two tractors is similar. The attached photo is of a non-bent, non-fishplated, non-repaired loader frame component from my L3130...

Once the loader is off, I think those frame towers come off fairly easily, a bunch of big fine-thread metric bolts. A Milwaukee M-18 hi-torq rattle gun will make quick work of them. If you don't have a spare strong-back-weak-mind helper to hold those ~150lb things up as you take the bolts out...

I think you will find the twist in the loader frame tower that stays on the tractor after the loader quick-detaches. I saw that on my brothers L3540 with LA724 loader. One of the long, flat straight pieces was bent, we straightened it and welded on a "fish-plate" to make it stronger in that...