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When putting a cold liner into the hot block, as soon as the liner touches the block, the heat transfers from block to liner and temperature equalizes in a very short time. The liner press-in will go nicely for about three inches, then get really difficult. And as those parts equalize in...

$234 all in... OUTSTANDING!! This was good work on the part of the shop. It would not be a bad thing to share the name, number, and location of the shop that did the work. Competence is not easy to find.

Indeed... if that piston is jammed at the retract-end of the stroke, getting in there to apply force to the other side of the piston will be a challenge. Once all the pieces are on the bench and cleaned-up, it will be apparent what needs replacing.

Looked up L35, says it should have a TL720 loader, Messicks parts diagram lists the seal kit for $28.35. The seal kit for my LA723 bucket tilt cylinder is lists at $180.35. TL720 loader bucket tilt cylinder diagram attached.

When I had my L3130/LA723 bucket tilt cylinder apart, the way it fits back together is the rod has about an extra inch of thread that protrudes out of the nut. In his picture, the farthest-out inch of threads is pretty flattened out. The inch of threads that is actually used to hold the piston...

The NUT has indeed come off that cylinder rod, thus the piston is detached from the rod. The thing clanging around inside that cylinder is a washer and the nut that threads onto those big threads. Some malfunction/mechanical failure caused that nut to back itself off. Its a nylock nut with a...

Over the phone free diagnostic advice is worth every penny you paid for it. Especially when advice carries on to bring your thing here and trade it in on our new stuff. Lifting the boom takes way more hydraulic pump pressure than does tipping the empty bucket. That the loader lifts fine...

My experience with ONE bucket-tilt cylinder on my L3130 tractor LA723 loader was that fixing the cylinder was $20 less expensive than buying TWO replacement cylinders from our Canadian ag-light-industrial hydraulic supplier. I, and others, are of the opinion that inside one of your cylinders...

On this tractor, and on the newer series L3540, both the pull circuit and the hold circuit are energized at the same time. In all of the diagnosing and testing comparing the operation of both tractors, both the pull and hold circuits were energized at the same time. On the properly working...

Done. L3130 tractor all together, all functions working. I've lost track of money, I think its some $2800 canadian pesos. Main bearings, shells and main-bearing-1 bushing, two-thou oil clearance on assembly. Rod bearing shells, two-thou of oil clearance on assembly Thrust bearing segments...

I suggest that there is damage inside one of the cylinders. The piston has detached from the rod, and all of the oil for the bucket-tilt circuit just flows past through the rod-hole in the piston. It probably did not disassemble itself nicely; piston messed up, seals chewed, etc. When you rev...

Thanks for the reply and thinking through PaulL, the seat switch is where I started. Unplugged it. Jumpered it. Swapped it with seat switch from other working tractor. Nothing. The HST neutral switch similar. Unplugged, jumpered, swapped with switch from working tractor. Nothing. I put...

Hit the dammit point today. Hay wired around my safety switch issue. I recall using an Allis Chalmers model U for chores around the farm. It started with a big crank in a hole under the radiator. If one was stupid enough to start it in-gear, the next-of-kin would call an undertaker, no...

Thanks Nicksacco, a well thought-out reply. I am almost at the dammit-point of hay-wiring around the problem, wiring directly from the switched 30-amp fuse in front of the radiator to the fuel solenoid, this bypassing all of engine-shut-down safety switches. The WSM manual mentions two...

The big question at this point seems to be "is it necessary to remove crankshaft?" Theoretically, no. Practically, I cannot visualize a scenario in which a connecting rod fails in a manner that punches out the block, and does not score/damage the crankpin (connecting rod big-end) journal...

Re-checked ignition switch and hydro-pedal neutral switch today. No progress. Drove tractor at a snail's pace out of the shop to the side-yard and pulled back the tarps on the LA723 loader. Plugged in the 4 hoses, and the boom-lift does not work at all. Bucket lift works, but theres one...

I have a Kubota L3130, safety switches are driving me nuts. Mine starts fine, but when in gear and hst pedal moved off neutral more than a smidgen, it cuts the fuel and engine stops. Pto-on or off does not matter. Move HST pedal quickly back to neutral as its starting to die and it kicks back...

The front axle would probably be 80-w90 possibly synthetic gear oil, a separately lubed cavity from the hydro transmission hydraulic system. The Pre Delivery inspection technician (using that term loosely) that went over your tractor coming off the truck before it went out the door should have...

Spent another few hours chasing that switch/wiring problem that turns the fuel-on solenoid off when the HST to--and-heel rocker is moved more than a tiny smidgen off center. Still no where. Got some technical assistance from a John Deere tech that was at the farm dealing with the 612 sprayer...

Using a garden sprayer to feed 5psi brake fluid into the master cylinder to bleed brakes or clutches is nothing short of life-altering. I used to have to ask missus to push / release / pump pedal. Sounds simple and straight forward, but getting one's missus to do something simple and straight...