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I personally like to swap things that are identical to see if the problem moves. Then I do A-B-A and try to ‘break’ it again. Those are some expensive parts in there.

Actually those aren’t the OP’s pics—they’re mine😁. And I can hit the last hole in that sway bar to fully widen, the pic angle just doesn’t show it. It’s pretty easy to get the angle on the two side link forks going ‘in’ instead of ‘out’—that’s all I was trying to show in case it was something...

Compare the orientation of yours to these pics, especially at the ‘angle-out’ of the forks of the side links.

Just to clear, that 91.7” to the top of the ROPs is without any canopy.

As far as working with the bucket on, that was the original way I used it. Then I ordered a trencher bucket along with that quick-change adapter so I decided to add that one extra piece of board to the top of the back end, so I now keep the buckets themselves separate. Here was the original...

. Deleted. Apologies

Congratulations on the new tractor. That looks to be in the 4WD/UP position. Before I got a feel for how to do it otherwise, I could raise my front wheels up using the FEL bucket and that allows the 4WD to go in and out much easier.

Yeah, it’s right about 1000lbs.

Got mine off Amazon. I put two swivels at the rear end of the dolly and two rigid ones at the seat end.

Plan on making one of these dolly’s for moving it around in your garage any time you want to have it off. Really makes it easy to go back and forth. Of course these days that’s likely $800 in scrap lumber. 🤣

Can’t advise how to fix but when I have my cutter on the back, I’ll keep the FEL bucket low when going forward, and if in an area that I haven’t cut before, I’ll back it in with the cutter up high until I’m feeling the love.

If you put the tractor inside the garage with the backhoe on, be certain to lock the boom of the backhoe such that it can’t slowly overnight try to make an unintended drive thru/doggy-door thru the side of your garage. That’s assuming of course you don’t have enough room to actually curl and...

Yup—the one on the underside of the hydraulic block. Didn’t check the loader valve relief. Pretty much just followed the procedure that NetMagi outlined in his thread here and in his YouTube video. Doubt I’ll need that extra oomph more than say once a year, so I was a bit conservative in my...

Well I’ll be the first to tell ya I’m terrible at math :D so I’m gonna hire you out for all that. I went back to my notes and I had increased the stock pressure of 2410psi up to 2550psi using two shims. Been looking closely each time for leak down any time I’m running the FEL hard and nothing to...

Don’t know about the rating, but since I did this in May, I’ve logged ~150hrs moving >20 tons of crushed limestone down a long hill with my FEL. I was putting in three culverts and improving a road, so had ample opportunities to blow a hose (or anything else)—and so far, no trouble noted.

Yup, really just depends on what you’re planning to do with it, as far as getting a single or dual lid, or if a root grapple or root-rake grapple works best for you. As for raising the pressure, I didn’t go quite as high as NetMagi did in his thread...

I don’t know too much about Titan gear (or rakes for that matter), but as the L2501 itself is about 55” wide, a 72” tiller seems a bit big, especially since they make a 60” one as well—you just want to cover your tracks. Be curious what others think about going that wide and heavy on a tiller...

If I had to pick either 100#s lighter or getting dual lids, I’ll always take a dual-lid model over saving that 100#s of lift—any day of the week— at least for the various-shaped brush and logs I deal with. I can (and already have) easily get that 100#s back with a shim.

Here’s an L3301 with a BH77 subframe and the telescoping stabilizers.