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Back when the key/main switch actually worked (which was many years ago so my memory is a little foggy) I'd have to hold the key in the leftmost most position to heat up the glow plugs. After about 10-15 seconds, I would turn it to the rightmost position to start it, and then it would revert to...

Here are some pics of the rats' nest. Note that among many other issues, the plastic connection appears to be melted and corroded where the GPI connects to the main switch. It looks like I could cut the large black/white wire which leads to the melted/corroded plug and connect that to the wire...

Awesome, thanks as usual for the help all and especially you Russell. The belt doesn't seem too complicated after all, I will get into that when I get a day off with nice weather. In the meantime I assume I can tighten it by moving the alternator along the slot. I believe I may run into an...

I have belt dressing for the meantime, but how big of a job is belt replacement? Regarding the wiring, it sounds like I need to at least get the glow plug indicator back into the picture. Russell sent me a wiring diagram back when we were getting it started, so I have that to look at anyway. It...

Eventually got it started yesterday! I'm not exactly sure what did it. I discovered that the bucket control was stuck on "lower", not sure if that has anything to do with it. Lots of fiddling around with the injectors, bleed screw, GPs, etc. When it did fire, it fired right up which leads me to...

My tractor is a jury rigged claptrap and the whole dash is disemboweled. My starting procedure is to connect a wire from the glow plug bus to the positive terminal, wait about 15 to 20 seconds, then bridge the starter solenoid until it starts. Then I remove the glow plug wire. Tonight I will...

Thanks for the tips, I always learn something here! Interesting development to report. I disconnected the battery and jumped the starter directly with my truck, but no change. Still very slow to crank. Then I took the battery into work and charged it fully with a different battery charger. When...

The jumper pack is a JNC660. It has always been reliable, but is a few years old at least and gets pretty frequent use. I tried running jumper cables from my truck directly to the starter. When I tried to to start it, it actually killed the truck. This might have been because I had to jump my...

I have not been able to start my L275 recently. It is not cranking hard enough. At first it seemed like a bad battery, but neither jumper cables nor a jumper pack did not change it. I also eliminated bad lead/terminals by running the fully charged jumper pack directly to the starter, also no...

Well, you guys came through for me again. I disconnected the air filter and gave it a try. Started up EAGERLY! I replaced the air filter and it is still running fine. I'm assuming that's normal? Next step will be to get a new air filter. I believe this one is millions of years old.

My L275 will not start. It's acting like it's not getting fuel or the glow plugs aren't heating up. I discovered that the gas cap had blown off at some point in the past month or two and we've had plenty of rain so I suspected there was water in the tank. I drained the tank and put fresh fuel...

Hey Dan, your instructions were easy to follow and execute. Everything is working perfectly now and the splitter just ripped through some of the biggest, nastiest hemlock logs you've ever seen! Many thanks for the help, I really appreciate it!

Thanks Dan, I just learned a lot from that post and I think it all makes sense now. I will give it a shot and let you know how it goes.

Thanks Dan. Could you clarify "power beyond hose from loader valve" vs "power beyond port of loader valve"? Before my changes, two hoses ran from the hydraulic box to the loader control box. Am I changing anything downstream of the loader control box? If so, will I use the two capped-off...

Hello, I don't know even the basics about hydraulics and have little common sense/logic, so assume I know nothing. I have an L275 and today I installed tees on the hydraulic junction box and added a pair of inline female quick-disconnects in order to run a log splitter. The connection job went...

The rear lift decided to start working properly again today, not sure why. There was some hose interfering with a mechanism on the other side of the lever, maybe that was the cause. In any case, looks like the problem's licked now. I got the bucket loader hose replaced. NAPA is awfully proud of...

The leak hole is on the rear hose in the pic, obscured by the front hose I'll check the relief valve tomorrow in daylight

Does the system need to be drained, or any levers in certain positions, to do this?

I was advised to add some hydraulic oil...could I have added too much? Felt like about a pint, maybe it was a quart. The tilting the bucket up causes a geyser, but all other loader controls function as normal.

Yes, it does have a loader The loader was working great until one of the hoses sprang a major leak today. So I'll need to replace at least that hose in addition to figuring out the rear lift issue. The drop speed knob still functions as it should in the rear lift. Here's the...