Recent content by JohnDB

Thank you Bill, I'm always interested in documentation relevant to my old Kubota.

This is ridiculous. That grammar snob @Mark_BX2350D ("too many misplaced commas") was nearly right :) , but it's the surplus spaces befor the comma Mr K needs to delete. Do that , and put the frighteners onto @arml to get a proper mower , and then the website'll be right as rain. Dang , now...

Same issue here... no such part number. I've ordered several from AliExpress. The problem there is the enshittification of that website... vendors descriptions are beyond meaningless, have to hunt for anything like useful dimensions, no longer easy to ask shops questions, quality feedback...

@Firemedic the Kubota Workshop manual for your tractor here if you don't already have it: https://www.gardentractortalk.com/d3/downloads/monthly_12_2013/a3d8602d4f0e10330d70430248d8b739-kubota-m8540--m9540-wsm.pdf

I get the feeling you want to get the tractor into action ASAP, so I'm only offering this as an interim response until Wolfman or someone else with more knowledge than me comes along. Don't. IMHO the cap is critical... don't push snow with it even with the other bolt in place... it might snap...

Sorry to hear of that @McMXi. That's a great line from QE. We too have a rescue dog - absolute mongrel breeding. Got it as a pup, supposed to stop growing at about 20kg, now over 30kg and still slim. Love it to bits even after it ran into and broke my wife's knee. Likes pretending to be...

Steel in static applications: roughly as strong in tension or compression. Dynamic applications - whole different story, wide range of factors at play. Shape, temperature, alloy, production process, load frequency and load variation...

I didn't think of it... :) which is why I love reading the follow-ups on this forum.

I agree, A36 seems very basic but maybe cheap and easy was the designer's motto. Looking at the fracture surface I'd say its something stronger than that, as @ruger1980 mentioned. Just googled T1 steel that you mentioned... but I don't think it would be that, based on the description. AI...

Surprised if that is Kubota factory welding. That small plate doesn't look to me as though it was designed with the same care as the plates on the rest of the dipper. And I can't help wondering about this: I agree with @ruger1980 that best practice would have been to end the bead in the...

@GeoHorn that was an interesting thread. The 2 biggest challenges for me were releasing a couple of the ball joints from their tapers to get the booster (Kubota's terminology) off and then unscrewing the gland from the head of the cylinder. The rest of it was straight-forward, and unlike yours...

Ouch! I'm going to persevere with this at least for a while... the rest of the booster seems to be in good nick - yet to confirm that though so if it is, it should be good for a few thousand more hours. By which time I'll might be able to catch up with Flip :-)

@trevoroni @#40Fan yes, measured rod diameter 22mm, housing ID 33mm. I haven't given up (yet) on finding a proper wiper seal. Thanks to the input from everyone here, its opened up a much broader range of possibilities so if I can't find anything, it probably doesn't exist.

Thanks for those suggestions. Definitely not any imperial size. I may have to go with an ordinary lip type oil seal if none specifically designed as wipers are forthcoming.

LoL thanks! Those seem to be rotary seals. I think the wiper seal is a specific design of seal, so I have been hunting in that direction. If I can't find something designed as a wiper, I'm attracted to your idea about a lip seal with s/s spring as a fall-back.