B8200-Tie rod??

[dusty-t]

My B8200 has the optional power assist steering. On the end of the steering cylinder there is what is basically a tie rod end. Kubota does not carry them anymore but if they did they would want $291.00 for it. First idea pull it and try to find something that will match the threaded end. 2nd idea, buy a tie rod end that will fit the taper on the steering arm and cut the threaded end off the old end and weld it to the new one. Any comments,advice, other idea's are welcome.In other words HELP. Dusty

 

[Theekillerbee]

That's a tough one Dusty. Is the tie rod end on the ram side of the cylinder?

If it were me, I think I'd try the cut and weld method...but I don't have a lot of confidence that it would hold up for repeated abuse.

 

[Randyj]

Dusty,

I would find a suitable tyrod end, cut the existing one off, then weld the replacement back on with some heavy wall seamless tubing slipped over
a couple inches each side of the joint.

 

[dusty-t]

Thanks guys. I'm not worried about the weld holding up, there really isn't room to put a sleeve on it. I've done a few things like that on tractors and trucks with no failures so far. I have used sleeves like that on lots of stuff but like I say there is no room. This thing is not very long 2 in max after the joint.I will have to keep the weld as far away from the joint as possible and leave room for the lock nut. I will try to get a couple of pics. I will be doing snow in the early morning. Then I have to take the Steiner back out to my son's so he can have something to play in the snow with. I will be keeping an eye on this thing. I don't want to flop my Kubota on it's side because this thing let loose. Dusty

 

[AKD]

You might be able to find one here, www.wkytp.com
I made a mistake on the first address, this one is right

 

[SockPuppet]

Dusty, my Kubota dealer was able to get the rear end joint for my PS just a couple of months ago. They looked it up in an 'accessory' addendum to the parts catalog.

If that fails, I would adapt another tie rod end to the end of the tube by either welding a nut on the end that fits the new piece or possibly getting a thread repair inset that would thread into the tube and take it down to an appropriate threaded hole. I know the forward end swivel joint on my system has a large diameter threaded shaft.

NAPA has been very good to me by way of matching things up.

 

[JWB]

Dusty,
Ever think about a heim joint? They come in all thread counts, male, female and weld on blanks. The taper could be drilled out and a grade 8 bolt put through. Just a thought. We do it all the time when building big truck suspensions.
JWB

 

[SockPuppet]

I just went and looked at mine and my weld on a nut idea is probably a no-go if it's the very front joint that goes into the casting of the valve body.

Here's a link to threaded inserts: http://www.timesert.com/

 

[dusty-t]

Thanks for all the replies guys. I didn't pursue wktp because chances are all they would have in this case would be used and I wouldn't put a used one on.Plus it would have to be shipped. Chances are I will go with the cut and weld. Sockpuppet I haven't checked the rear one yet I am glad you posted that or I might not have checked it. You wouldn't by chance have the part number.I had thought of a hyme joint but the hole in the steering arm is tapered and I don't want to drill it out to make it straight. I think I have a good shot at finding a joint through napa. They have gone the extra yard for me in the past. I'll keep youse posted. Thanks again for all the input. MAN this is a great site. Dusty

 

[handyman]

Dusty I dont write much but still read if you can post a pic I will make a suggestion if you want. I would weld it but first grind both ends down not to a sharp point but at least half thru or a little more. Then weld it up with this much weld you can grind excess weld off smooth just make sure you weld slow so it wont hurt joint ( give it time to cool between passes.) Also I sometimes soak a rag in water and place over rubber joint not on welded part just on the rubber part so it wont hurt rubber go slow and keep water on rag.Hope this makes since I have done this several times. It works be careful do not put water on the weld itself. I have even rethreaded over my weld if necessary it will work fine.I will check forum to check on you. Dusty one other thing you normally would want a full penitration weld on anything but you would have to grind a little more to penetrate all the way thru but on the tie rod that would be plenty of weld and you wont have to weld on it that long. Good luck. handy

 

[dusty-t]

I finally got around to fixing this. Went to Ideal Supply (NAPA) in town here. Tie rod end for 80s Camero. Cut and weld. Bingo done. Thanks for the towel trick Handyman. And thanks for all the other folks help too. Dusty

 

[handyman]

Glad you fixed it dusty towel usually works good long as you weld slow (give it a chance to cool between pass) keep it wet and off the weld. Keeps those boots from burning. Looks like you ground it down also dont beleive you will have any problem. I usually prefer welding those with a stick.(JUST OLD SCHOOL) but the stick is usually stronger if done properly. Proved that one to lincoln back in the late 1990s.Good luck handy

 

[dusty-t]

Thanks Handy. I use stick for everything me & mr mig don't get along. Two passes and fixem up at the end. No I don't think it will break. Took about 30 min to weld. Dusty

 

[traildust]

Thanks Handy. I use stick for everything me & mr mig don't get along. Two passes and fixem up at the end. No I don't think it will break. Took about 30 min to weld. Dusty

Dusty that weld looks GREAT

It only took you 30 minutes? It would have taken me a lot longer, especially counting how long it would take to go back to NAPA for another rod end.

Scott

 

[traildust]

Glad you fixed it dusty towel usually works good long as you weld slow (give it a chance to cool between pass) keep it wet and off the weld. Keeps those boots from burning. Looks like you ground it down also dont beleive you will have any problem. I usually prefer welding those with a stick.(JUST OLD SCHOOL) but the stick is usually stronger if done properly. Proved that one to lincoln back in the late 1990s.Good luck handy

Handy,
are you saying after making a weld pass to wet the rod end for cooling but not the weld? Is it bad to get the weld wet after a pass for cooling?

If so I have been making some really bad mistakes

Scott

 

[handyman]

Never wet rod end or the weld itself with water sometimes people think they are doing good to cool it off with water.NO NO let it cool on its on the water was for the rag wrapped around the tie rod end to keep the rubber on the tie rod end from melting. Dont get the water on the weld but rag around the rubber tie rod end and keep rag wet (OR IT WILL BURST IN FLAMES). The wet rag works good on delicate parts when you need it.I have used all types of gels made for this over the years with not a lot of luck. The tight rag with water works best. BUT dont put water on the weld( notice the tie rod end in picture) . Dusty wraped the rag around the rubber boot and ball part only. Look at the rubber in next picture no damage to rubber. The rubber boot will hold greese for a long time. Another simple trick some things (to keep them from warping after I weld them) I have been known to bury them in my sand pile to cool slower( Not often) but for some metals this slower process of cooling will keep them from warping or twisting while they are cooling. Starting to ramble so I will hush try the rag sometime let me know how it turns out or just check dustys pictures. Hope I explained about the water and wet rag. handy

 

[handyman]

Just talked to dusty that particular boot was removable but when I weld on something with rubber close to it I use the wet rag try it traildust and let me know next time.handy

 

[traildust]

Just talked to dusty that particular boot was removable but when I weld on something with rubber close to it I use the wet rag try it traildust and let me know next time.handy

Well handy, it's all good! Your previous post was GREAT! I read your advice like a good book that I can't put down. You are a wonderful man handy!

I can't wait to try the wet rag method and I will do my best to keep it from bursting in flames

The sand trick is a nice thing to learn, thanks for that as well!

Please remember this, you never ever ramble! You are very informative and helpful. Everybody truly enjoys what you have to say. Believe that!

Dusty, thanks for your patience with me using your thread to learn new stuff.

Scott

 

[dusty-t]

No problems Traildust. The way I figure it that is what this forum is for. Every time some one gets in on the post you have a chance at learning some thing new. And handyman has helped in the past and probably will do so again in the future. If we all share our questions and knowledge we will be better doing so. We might even avoid screwing things up. Thanks again Guys. Dusty