The pto clutch I do not need in the winter but I REALLY could have used it this fall. The drive clutch had started to slip a little under heavy load in 1st and 2nt, that Is why I dove into it when I had the rear end all apart. I thought it would be an easy check and replace in needed at that time. Little did I know.How bad do you really need the clutch???
Just bolt it all together and run it tell it stops!
all have the same 2.0mm rise from where the assembly bolts down and where the first stage clutch disc makes contact. They also all have the same tolerance or +- 0.05mm.
Why not just have the flywheel machined flat to remove the rise? It seems to me that the clutch disks might be thicker than the originals were. I bet if the height of the original housing was measured, one would find that it's a few mm taller than the replacement. What I'm wondering is if the replacement is designed to work with a flat flywheel rather than one with a rise. Might be easier (and cheaper) than having new arms machined.I have bolted up the clutch assembly to the flywheel without putting in the first stage clutch disk and bolted up the transmission and the second stage, (pto clutch), disengages properly. Clutch peddle free play is also much closer to what it should be.
I think I am going to go with a suggestion I got from a machinist yesterday. His suggestion was to make 3 new assembly rod releases, part #10, a little shorter thereby lifting the levers in the middle up further making contact with the bearing sooner and allowing for further compression. These lengths would have to be exact.
The clutch cover for the first stage has a 2mm grove machined into the inside so that when it is bolted to the flywheel it locks it in place preventing centrifugal force from moving it around. Also, with a tolerance of 0.05mm, you would have to machine it down in stages,(70$ per machining), or risk having to replace the flywheel and start all over.Why not just have the flywheel machined flat to remove the rise? It seems to me that the clutch disks might be thicker than the originals were. I bet if the height of the original housing was measured, one would find that it's a few mm taller than the replacement. What I'm wondering is if the replacement is designed to work with a flat flywheel rather than one with a rise. Might be easier (and cheaper) than having new arms machined.
Is there any way to contact the actual clutch pack manufacturer? Would seem to me that they'd be able to tell you what they designed it to fit (flywheel that's flat vs rise).
When I took it to the dealer they used a camera attached to a flexible optic fiber to look inside everywhere they could.Is there any kind of machinist's trick you can use to see what portions of the parts are making contact when everything is assembled?
-- Carl
Just got it back from a machines at 5:00pm tonight. After working his magic, using a press in his shop the second stage disengages with travel left in the arms but still should have enough clearance before contacting the bearing. Will be bolting it up tomorrow and updating how/if it is working.Any progress with your clutch?
I will post details in a couple days.I've been waiting patiently to hear more about this...
Great news!!!!
So what did he do exactly? Curious if he machined new assembly rod releases like you mentioned? If he did, it would be great if you posted the dimensions of the new one(s) so the next person who runs into this knows what to do for a fix.
Hope it works!!!!
Steve
Have to bolt the fenders, seat, steering column, fuel tank, floor boards and hood back on. Have not done these yet because I have a couple of gremlins in the electrical system that I meed to fix and it is easier to have these parts out of the way to work on the electrical. These parts were removed to replace the clutch and rear differential anyways. Everything else is done. Linkage all adjusted, all fluids and filters changes, everything greased.How is the tractor going?