Kubota B1550D hydraulic fluid in engine crankcase.

[TheOldHokie]

Wow I didnt even look at the price yet.. The shaft doesnt feel wobbly at all. I'm going to look up the parts now.. The tractor runs fine besides oil mixing

Which shaft isnt wobbly?

Pump is $1300. Engine drive shaft is $2xx. Something is not right so I dont think a new shaft seal alone is going to fix your problem

 

[TheOldHokie]

Which shaft isnt wobbly?

Pump is $1300. Engine drive shaft is $2xx. Something is not right so I dont think a new shaft seal alone is going to fix your problem

Looks like you can get an aftermarket pump for ~$150.

Dan

 

[Porcello garage]

Which shaft isnt wobbly?

Pump is $1300. Engine drive shaft is $2xx. Something is not right so I dont think a new shaft seal alone is going to fix your problem

The pump shaft on the hydro pump doesnt feel wobble. Is that what your refering too?

 

[TheOldHokie]

The pump shaft on the hydro pump doesnt feel wobble. Is that what your refering too?

There are two shafts. Check the wobble in the shaft that drives the pump. It runs in two bearings.

Dan

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

That's actually normal wear, all of those style of setups wear like that.
You could run it like that for another 1000 hours before it fails.

The seal will leak under two circumstances.
dead heading the pump and wear.
If you don't have any obvious wear issues, where the shaft on the pump is wobbly then it's more likely the system is being dead headed.

The shaft on the injection pump side (fuel cam) if it's got that much play the tractor is going to run like complete

 

[Porcello garage]

There are two shafts. Check the wobble in the shaft that drives the pump. It runs in two bearings.

Dan

@North Idaho Wolfman I guess the best way to tell if the engine driven side has any wobble would be to take off the the hydraulic pump holder off the block.

I also don't see any visable wear on the seal of the hydro pump shaft.

Thanks for the feedback and help guys

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Sorry slightly erroneous info.
Yes that has a gear case that transfers off of the fuel cam, and yes if it has a bad bearing it can cuse excessive wear.
But I have seen direct drive pumps with the same wear patterns on the drive parts and they work fine for years and years and years.

 

[Porcello garage]

Sorry slightly erroneous info.
Yes that has a gear case that transfers off of the fuel cam, and yes if it has a bad bearing it can cuse excessive wear.
But I have seen direct drive pumps with the same wear patterns on the drive parts and they work fine for years and years and years.

View attachment 177562

That makes me feel better that you have seen other like mine. What do you recommend? Should I pull the adaptor housing (070) off and spin the gear to see if I have a bad bearing? or Just put new seal shaft in and send it.

I was able to spin the bearing (160) and it seems to spin nicely. Now at 2800 rpm that could be a different story.

I also moved dont feel any play by hand on the pump shaft or on the female side (150) it doesnt seem to have any play. Now i cant really confirm if it has a wobble at engine speed. But feels tight.

The tractor also ran perfect, I was just replacing seal so I could stop having the crankcase fill out with hydro oil every few hours of run time

I also did notice some like mositure or rust in the area where the pump goes into witch i didnt think I would see if hydro oil is bypassing

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

That makes me feel better that you have seen other like mine. What do you recommend? Should I pull the adaptor housing (070) off and spin the gear to see if I have a bad bearing? or Just put new seal shaft in and send it.

I was able to spin the bearing (160) and it seems to spin nicely. Now at 2800 rpm that could be a different story.

I also moved dont feel any play by hand on the pump shaft or on the female side (150) it doesnt seem to have any play. Now i cant really confirm if it has a wobble at engine speed. But feels tight.

The tractor also ran perfect, I was just replacing seal so I could stop having the crankcase fill out with hydro oil every few hours of run time

I also did notice some like mositure or rust in the area where the pump goes into witch i didnt think I would see if hydro oil is bypassing

You can run the tractor with the pump removed, but it's going to be pretty hard to get a good read on if there is any issue with the bearings or not.
One option if your not really sure, is pull it apart and replace the bearings, that will make sure they are good.

The wear on both sides doesn't bother me as I've seen it a lot over the years.
It's just a design "flaw" if you want to call it that.

Have you already removed the Internal Circlip off of the pump?

 

[Porcello garage]

You can run the tractor with the pump removed, but it's going to be pretty hard to get a good read on if there is any issue with the bearings or not.
One option if your not really sure, is pull it apart and replace the bearings, that will make sure they are good.

The wear on both sides doesn't bother me as I've seen it a lot over the years.
It's just a design "flaw" if you want to call it that.

Have you already removed the Internal Circlip off of the pump?

View attachment 177564

View attachment 177565

I dont want to make extra work for myself if this is normal wear, like the wear on each side could still be happening if I replace both bearings? I don't have a bearing puller and the bearing look like they can be a pain to pull.

But if im already in here it might be best I just remove and replace the bearings..

Yes I removed the circlip and replace the seal under it on the pump. Thats why I'm temped to just Re install it and send it.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I dont want to make extra work for myself if this is normal wear, like the wear on each side could still be happening if I replace both bearings? I don't have a bearing puller and the bearing look like they can be a pain to pull.

But if im already in here it might be best I just remove and replace the bearings..

Yes I removed the circlip and replace the seal under it on the pump. Thats why I'm temped to just Re install it and send it.

I hate doing a job twice because I cut corners.

You are already in there. Take it apart and inspect the bearings on the drive gear shaft. With all do respect to NIWM that is excessive wear Tang drive pumps are a tight fit and that one is wallowed out and sloppy. Couple that with the seal failure and I smell a rat.

If needed a new gear shaft and two new bearings is $300+. Replacement is not a big job.

If you decided to replace the pump as well a new aftermarket pump is $175.

Dan

 

[Porcello garage]

I hate doing a job twice because I cut corners.

You are already in there. Take it apart and inspect the bearings on the drive gear shaft. With all do respect to NIWM that is excessive wear Tang drive pumps are a tight fit and that one is wallowed out and sloppy. Couple that with the seal failure and I smell a rat.

If needed a new gear shaft and two new bearings is $300+. Replacement is not a big job.

If you decided to replace the pump as well a new aftermarket pump is $175.

Dan

Since I am already in there I am going to removed the adaptor housing and inspect both bearings/replace. Depending on my finding I might just use it till it fails and then replace the pump and new gear shaft. Becuase I feel I replace the gear shift shaft, I have to replace the hydro pump shaft tang or it will just have pay still.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Since I am already in there I am going to removed the adaptor housing and inspect both bearings/replace. Depending on my finding I might just use it till it fails and then replace the pump and new gear shaft. Becuase I feel I replace the gear shift shaft, I have to replace the hydro pump shaft tang or it will just have pay still.

New bearings are cheap. I would do that as proactive service.

You are not goung to replace just the tang on the pump. That requires a complete pump replacement.

Dan

 

[Porcello garage]

New bearings are cheap. I would do that as proactive service.

You are not goung to replace just the tang on the pump. That requires a complete pump replacement.

Dan

Yeah I will just do the bearings to be preventative. Do you recommend any bearing puller kits? I have never pulled a bearing without having access to the center bore, with the gear shaft in it I will need something to like grab the outside of the race.

Yeah I think I will keep the OEM pump in it until it fails. I think even if it fails it wont be catastrophic and If i randomly stop having hydro power.. at that point I will know where to look and then I will replace the gear shaft and hydro pump.

Lastly what bearings should I be replacing 160, 130? and also the 200 gasket?

 

[Russell King]

Most all bearings in that area will just slide out once the circlip is removed.

You may need to get a couple of good circlip pliers to be able to remove the clips. I also suggest you get new circlips since they often get lost during disassembly and reassembly (they like to fly away off of the pliers so wear safety glasses). Also look closely at the circlips edges, one is probably rounded while the other is squared. The squared side should be the outside when installed.

 

[Porcello garage]

Most all bearings in that area will just slide out once the circlip is removed.

You may need to get a couple of good circlip pliers to be able to remove the clips. I also suggest you get new circlips since they often get lost during disassembly and reassembly (they like to fly away off of the pliers so wear safety glasses). Also look closely at the circlips edges, one is probably rounded while the other is squared. The squared side should be the outside when installed.

Thanks for the feedback, i don’t see a circlip on being

Most all bearings in that area will just slide out once the circlip is removed.

You may need to get a couple of good circlip pliers to be able to remove the clips. I also suggest you get new circlips since they often get lost during disassembly and reassembly (they like to fly away off of the pliers so wear safety glasses). Also look closely at the circlips edges, one is probably rounded while the other is squared. The squared side should be the outside when installed.

thank you for the feedback. I don’t see a circlip on bearing 160 in the IPC that’s why I thought it was pressed interference.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Most all bearings in that area will just slide out once the circlip is removed.

You may need to get a couple of good circlip pliers to be able to remove the clips. I also suggest you get new circlips since they often get lost during disassembly and reassembly (they like to fly away off of the pliers so wear safety glasses). Also look closely at the circlips edges, one is probably rounded while the other is squared. The squared side should be the outside when installed.

Yes as Russell said, the bearing are not pressed it they are tolerance fit, you do not need a puller to get them out.
What keeps that bearing in place is not a circlip, it's a retainer #170, it will just pull out.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I just looked at your posted picture, and it looks like the retainer is missing?
Unless you already removed it.
It will look like a washer with a step on it.

 

[Russell King]

Sorry about the circlip reference, I should have looked at the diagram more.

Since it is a bolted together assembly they will use retainers (spacers) to hold the bearings in place.

 

[Porcello garage]

I just looked at your posted picture, and it looks like the retainer is missing?
Unless you already removed it.
It will look like a washer with a step on it.

Yeah I removed the spacer. I can’t seem to pull the bearing out with ease. I was gonna see if I could change these bearings with out pulling the adapter housing