Then you start moving down the neutral circuot from there testing hydraulic pressure as you go.works great
Dan
Then you start moving down the neutral circuot from there testing hydraulic pressure as you go.works great
If thd loader is working it should be right as is.So I just noticed the roll pin is gone from the hydraulic block. Not sure when that happened. The adjuster could have been spun around. How can I tell if it is clocked the right way before I put the pin back in? Does it being 180 out make a difference?
Probably not the best choice as if any RTV got into the valves it can cause all sorts of problems!I decided just to test. I put some RTV around the hard line that goes into the pump(where I just replaced the oring) and let it sit 2 days. No more surging. Now I have a new issue. Not sure if it is related or not. I have a box blade on the back of my tractor and I went and used the loader for a while moving a bunch of dirt and mulch. Decided to level it out with the box blade and it went down and never game back up. BAH
Check the lowering speed control valve. I will bet its fully closed.To add a new wrinkle to this, I was walking by the tractor after mowing(with a different tractor) and decided to look at it for a bit and with the tractor off(hadn't started since it failed to go up) I could move the arms up and down with basically no resistance. It was shocking how easily they moved. So I decided to crank the tractor and see what happened with the controls. Well I crank the tractor and the arms go all the way up and ignored the controls. I could get them to go down at all and with the tractor off they stayed up.
You are probably right. I messed with it when I couldnt get them to go back up. Thank you!Check the lowering speed control valve. I will bet its fully closed.
Dan
Well now they go up so something has changed.You are probably right. I messed with it when I couldnt get them to go back up. Thank you!