Oil Choice

[Bee-Positive]

Unless that Kawasaki is a diesel, two people on here have given you wrong advice.
Sx for spark-ignition engines, gas
Cx for compression-ignition engines, diesel

The rest is your choice.

Absolutely correct sir.

Since mikado463 does not state what model he owns I did the ready-shoot-aim method of answering as if it were a diesel. My apologies to all.

I believe the Z models are gas and the ZD models are diesel. Choose diesel or non-diesel engine oil accordingly.

Pass the pop corn please...

 

[Trash Panda]

OK so what diesel eral should we use ?

I’ve heard good things about VP C-16.

 

[mikado463]

Hmmm…..never heard of this…..

View attachment 175048

well since you asked........Zinc or ZDP as it's often known has been reduced in oil over the years as more and more ICE's have utilized roller cams. Whereas flat tappet cams have used the additive in oil for lubricity for years. i am lead to believe the Kawasaki engine in my zero turn utilizes a flat tappet valve train, thus the question

 

[mikado463]

Absolutely correct sir.

Since mikado463 does not state what model he owns I did the ready-shoot-aim method of answering as if it were a diesel. My apologies to all.

I believe the Z models are gas and the ZD models are diesel. Choose diesel or non-diesel engine oil accordingly.

Pass the pop corn please...

Sorry for the confusion, it's model Z412KW. Engine FS651V

 

[TheOldHokie]

well since you asked........Zinc or ZDP as it's often known has been reduced in oil over the years as more and more ICE's have utilized roller cams. Whereas flat tappet cams have used the additive in oil for lubricity for years. i am lead to believe the Kawasaki engine in my zero turn utilizes a flat tappet valve train, thus the question

You read too much internet propoganda.

First of all zinc has not been reduced or limited. Phosphorous is what has been limited to 800 PPM but only for specific viscosities. Other (more expensive) addiditives have taken the place of the reduced phosphorous.

Your 10W40 is not subject to the 800 PPM limit and is capped at the same 1200 PPM as heavy duty diesel engine oils. That is very much in line with older formulatiins. and way more than needed for that little lawn mower engine.

ALL of these formulations are run tested for flat tappet wear protection using flat tappet engines and meet very demanding requirements.

Unless you are building NASCAR engines these limits are absolutely meaningless.

Dan

 

[mikado463]

Hokie, thks for your reply and yes I fully understand the reduction in phosphorus (catalytic converter issues). it was when i stoped into the Kubota dealer and picked a new filter for the upcoming change the parts guy was trying to tell me I need to use kawasaki oil' cause of increased Zinc content. I knew he as trying to blow smoke up my skirt when he stated it was for better engine cooling !

Anyways I've just returned from Wally World with a 5 qt jug of Super Tech 10w40, all is good......

 

[lmichael]

Super Tech is good stuff. Not sure about for small engines but it still should be decent stuff. Is that Kaw water or air cooled?

 

[mikado463]

Air cooled

 

[lmichael]

Air cooled

You should be fine. Just don't push your intervals if you stick with it. The Super Tech is actually very good stuff.

 

[Kurtee]

Unless that Kawasaki is a diesel, two people on here have given you wrong advice.
Sx for spark-ignition engines, gas
Cx for compression-ignition engines, diesel

The rest is your choice.

Taken from a John Deere manual for Z950R with Kawasaki air cooled engine. Same page is in the X739
manual which is liquid cooled. Just use a quality oil and change at proper intervals.


Gasoline Engine Oil
TS1744
TS1744-UN: Oil Viscosities for Air Temperature Ranges
Use oil viscosity based on the expected air temperature range during the period between oil changes.

Using single viscosity grade oils such as SAE 30 or SAE 40 can reduce oil consumption in air cooled engines.

The following oils are approved:

John Deere Plus-50™ II
John Deere Turf-Gard™
Other oils may be used if they meet one or more of the following:

ILSAC GF-6A
API Service Category SP
API Service Category SN
API Service Category SM
API Service Category SL
API Service Category SJ
ACEA Oil Sequence A3/B3
ACEA Oil Sequence A3/B4
ACEA Oil Sequence A5/B5
ACEA Oil Sequence C5
ACEA Oil Sequence C4
ACEA Oil Sequence C3
ACEA Oil Sequence C2
ACEA Oil Sequence C1
Plus-50 is a trademark of Deere & Company
Turf-Gard is a trademark of Deere & Company

 

[Trustable]

My father has the same engine in a zero turn SCAG he got a few years ago. I change the oil for him when I head downstate and have him pick up the standard oil and filter that is recommended from the engine manual. I think with small engines it’s a lot more important to change it yearly at least or more if used a lot within the hour interval set by the manufacturer compared to the brand of oil you use. As long as it meets the specs that’s all that matters. Now I’m getting my popcorn ready. Once he gets a few hundred hours I may switch over to synethic but I’m not sure yet, d

 

[McMXi]

Three types of people here:

those that do not think synthetics are worth the price
those that are undecided and scared to use something different
those that read and UNDERSTAND data from experts about synthetics.

I think you need more categories.

I started using synthetic engine and gear oils when the price difference was significant and there were few options. I was a diehard Amsoil and Redline fan back in the early 90s. My preference for synthetic oils has never wavered in over 30 years.

 

[mikado463]

I started with Amsoil back in '76, in my then new '76 Trans Am, 2000 miles on dinosour blood then switched over, never an issue in the 70, 000 plus miles I put on the car.

 

[lmichael]

Way back IIRC around 71 or 72? Mobil came out with the new Mobil One in the silver metal can. It came in only one grade (5W20) and I began using it in my 69 Caddy Coupe Deville with the big 472 V8, I used it in my BMW R60/6 motorcycle, my buddy used it in his 70 Camaro V8, and his 66 Triumph 650 Tiger (like a Bonneville but with one carb). And man it sure worked well in all the those engines. A believer ever since

 

[Dunslandloy]

Hey mikado463 welcome to the forum.

If you haven't already guessed the topic of "type of oil" has been BEAT-TO-Death already. Try searching for older posts (by title).

Buy your favorite flavor of diesel engine oil and follow the maintenance guidelines in the Operators Manual. Just don't use non-diesel rated engine oil.

P.S. Same goes for Hydraulic Oil (Kubota SUDT 2 )

Agreed! I even use Rotella T6 in My Kawasaki Teryx 800 for its superior wet clutch performance.

 

[Dunslandloy]

So my zero turn (Kawasaki) calls for 10w40, curious as to who's running what. full synthetic , blend or good old 'dinosour blood' ? are you adding zinc ?

Read this from the web first, then use a high quality reputable oil:
Yes, it is highly recommended to let engine bearings and piston rings seat using conventional or break-in oil before switching to synthetic. Synthetic oil is extremely slippery and can prevent the necessary friction required for new metal components to wear together and "seat" properly

 

[McMXi]

Yes, it is highly recommended to let engine bearings and piston rings seat using conventional or break-in oil before switching to synthetic. Synthetic oil is extremely slippery and can prevent the necessary friction required for new metal components to wear together and "seat" properly

So this would imply that new vehicles that run synthetic oil as specified by the manufacturer are sitting on the lot with regular oil in them. If they show up with synthetic oil then the implication would be that the factory has run the engine through the break-in procedure already. I don't doubt that manufacturers have the ability to run an engine on a stand using a massive electric motor but I don't know if this is something that's done or not.

When I upgraded the outboard on my boat to a 200 hp V6 I followed Yamaha's 20 hour break-in procedure to the letter. They specifically mention the need to seat the rings so I ran Yamaha conventional oil for the break-in and than switched to Yamaha full synthetic after the break-in. I just felt better throwing out 20-hour old oil that was Yamaha approved but cheaper than their synthetic version.

 

[imarobot]

I'm running out of pop corn

 

[Trash Panda]

Read this from the web first, then use a high quality reputable oil:
Yes, it is highly recommended to let engine bearings and piston rings seat using conventional or break-in oil before switching to synthetic. Synthetic oil is extremely slippery and can prevent the necessary friction required for new metal components to wear together and "seat" properly

Cummins would disagree with that old wives tale, considering all their 6.7’s roll off the line full of Valvoline Premium Blue 5w-40 full synthetic.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

View attachment 175057

There's no need to change oil: It's lasted in the ground for thousands of years, it'll last above ground just as long. That's why they want it back when you're done with it, so they can sell it to the next sucker.