My L245DT has aftermarket power steering..does not have a front end loader. The power steering cylinder is connected to the control valve below the left side of the seat via an aluminum block. How do I do this? Thanks for any help.
Rear remote hydraulic on Kubota L245DT
- Thread starter JackH9481
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Russell King
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
You probably have one hose from tractor going into the power steering system and one hose that returns from the power steering system. Is that correct?
You may want to read through this post and the one that is linked to in this post
www.orangetractortalks.com
I will call on @TheOldHokie to tell you which comes first the power steering or the remote valve since that will make one have a higher priority than the other depending on how they are connected. I think the power steering might need to be first but it really may not matter that much.
You may want to read through this post and the one that is linked to in this post
Adding auxiliary hydraulics to L245DT tractor
I’ve been looking at trying to get some rear remotes to my L245DT. My question is where can I tap into my existing system and where the return can or should go. On the left side down below the seat is some sort of hydraulic component with a plug in it that I’m wondering if I could connect there...
www.orangetractortalks.com
I will call on @TheOldHokie to tell you which comes first the power steering or the remote valve since that will make one have a higher priority than the other depending on how they are connected. I think the power steering might need to be first but it really may not matter that much.
Do you waant to do it right or half assed? We need to see what that cylinder looks like
Dan
Thats ehat I was expecting - a power assist cylinder and valve.
As plumbed the steering assist is in series with the 3pt and operating the 3pt can/will interfere with the assist. In general it works but not the best arrangement.
If you add a remote control valve to that circuit it gets even uglier.. Again it will work in general but you can stall the steering when you operate the remote.
So the proper way to plumb that circuit is to sdd a priority flow divider and split the flow into two separate circuits. One circuit feeds the PS and the other feeds the remote and 3pt. Thats how the factory PS did it. Easy to add a flow divider but they have gone way up in price.
Dan
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You are welcome.
Here is a picture of a priority flow divider on an old 8N thats been updated with an engine driven hydraulic pump. I sold quite a few of these upgrades snd the flow dividers work well. They are adjustable so you can field tune the priority flow rate to match your application
Dan
Have no Idea..it was on the tractor when bought.
By the way..Do I need to connect the priority valve directly to the pump or can I tap in left below the seat? I only see one outlet at the pump and it's a steel line back to operate the 3 point?
Thanks
By the way..Do I need to connect the priority valve directly to the pump or can I tap in left below the seat? I only see one outlet at the pump and it's a steel line back to operate the 3 point?
Thanks
You discinnect the cylinder completely and connect the OUT port on the block to IN on the divider
Cinnect the excess port on the divider to IN on tge blocj.
Connect the priority port on the divider to IN on the cylinder
Connect the return on the cylinder to any tank return point. I think the L245 has a pluggex tank porg right next to the hydrsulic filler that you can use.
I have done a lot of this stuff so if you want help with the plumbing or sourcing parts just ask. That flow divider was $85 three years ago and its now three times that.
Russell King
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Just to provide you some information on how the hydraulic flow is on the tractor:
Originally the flow went from the sump into the pump and through the steel line (passing through the apparatus on the side of the tractor) to the three point control valve inside the tractor. It then goes either to the three point lift piston or dumps back into the sump to return to the pump. There is a pressure relief valve inside the three point system to protect the pump. But that is the only relief valve inside the original system.
If you think of the steel line as a garden hose that you could cut and route to a different point (but NOT tee into) and back to the other side of the cut that is what that block on top in your picture is doing. The original flow came out of the steel pipe into a block but that block just passed the flow back into the tractor. The new block diverts the flow out to one hose to the cylinder through the cyLinder and back to the other port of the block to then be the same flow as originally into the tractor. If you capped off the end of the hose going to the cylinder you would destroy the pump since there is no pressure relief valve! You must not block flow completely in anything in the system or you eliminate the relief valve.
So current flow is through the pump, to the block, out of the block to the steering cylinder valve and out of the steering cylinder valve. I assume there is some type of valve involved with the steering wheel movement to control that cylinder and it is at the front end and you can see its actuator underneath the cylinder. Once it returns from the steering it enters the block again and directly into the three point control valve, to be used or just dump into the sump.
If you use the three point control valve that will eventually build pressure in the incoming line from the pump. That will affect how the steering would work (as TheOldHokie stated above) and adding other valves would have similar effects to the steering.
The priority valve will effectively create two systems of flow and pressure, one will be for steering and be the priority flow, while the other flow will go into the valves and dump back into the sump. The flow from the steering will just dump back to the tractor sump. I will post a picture of that port in a minute (mine is L185 but I believe yours has the same port).
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Here is the connection block on my L185F. Does the same thing as your side/top block cover!
The red steel line comes from the pump. The block cover diverts it to the red fitting. That goes to a rear remote valve. The blue 90 degree fitting is the power beyond from the valve. That goes onto the three point control valve through the blue highlighted hard steel line (far side). The green fittings are the tank return from the valve that just dumps into the tractor sump. I believe your tractor has the same (green) port. That will need a TEE in the line, one from the rear remote tank return and one fro the steering system. I am 99% sure the port is G 3/8 also known as BSPP 3/8 parallel thread. There is a sealing washer between the tractor and fitting.
The red steel line comes from the pump. The block cover diverts it to the red fitting. That goes to a rear remote valve. The blue 90 degree fitting is the power beyond from the valve. That goes onto the three point control valve through the blue highlighted hard steel line (far side). The green fittings are the tank return from the valve that just dumps into the tractor sump. I believe your tractor has the same (green) port. That will need a TEE in the line, one from the rear remote tank return and one fro the steering system. I am 99% sure the port is G 3/8 also known as BSPP 3/8 parallel thread. There is a sealing washer between the tractor and fitting.