Foundation Drainage Maintenance Question

[Bee-Positive]

Foundation Drainage Maintenance Question

Built a 2-story ranch in 2007. Has 4” drain pipe around the perimeter with capped risers (cleanouts?) to above grade on 3 out of 4 corners. In the west corner 4” solid pipe runs from the footing out 165’ to daylight, so no sump pump is needed.

Weed-wacking around the outlet last week I noticed some build up in the mouth of the pipe. Reached down to clear it and it’s like rock. Got my longest pry bar and mini-sledge and managed to chip some of it out (picture). Very hard stuff - probably hardened minerals/silt. Wouldn’t be surprised if there weren’t critters in there to boot since no end cap on the outlet.

I’m worried that it will eventually plug the drain since it’ already 1/3 plus at the outlet. Not wanting to wait until I get a wet basement I thought I’d better address the issue now.

Power-jet, roto-rooter, dig it up? Would rather not dig up hard clay and shale if I don’t have too, 7’ - 8’ deep at the house.

Has anyone here had similar issues / what did you do / what did it cost?

TIA, AOW

165' drainage run and mineral build up

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

Hire a good plumber that can run a camera.

Since there's clean outs at one end and daylighted the other they could go both ways.

They are ways, and solvents to clear out concrete. So maybe something to dissolve hardened mineral deposits is available.

The good news is, it is not under slab or even a building. So repair will not be bad if they have to replace some drainline.

 

[chim]

Sure would be good to know what it is for starters. Also where it originated. It would be disturbing if it was starting to fill the foundation drains. With that run it would be possible to run a camera through it. Since you had to chop it out, I'm doubting that a water jet would work.

 

[jaxs]

Do you by chance have an enemy that deals in concrete?

 

[Bee-Positive]

Hire a good plumber that can run a camera.

My thoughts exactly on the camera. Just figured I'd ask around before calling around. Kinda like if you want the right answer you have to ask the right question.
Thanks

 

[Bee-Positive]

Sure would be good to know what it is for starters. Also where it originated. It would be disturbing if it was starting to fill the foundation drains. With that run it would be possible to run a camera through it. Since you had to chop it out, I'm doubting that a water jet would work.

Pretty sure its mostly mineral deposits. We have extremely hard water here.
There are under ground springs coming off the hill, the yard doesn't dry out until mid-June most years. the drain will run even in times of little to no rain.

 

[#40Fan]

Can you put the piece in a bucket of water and see if it will dissolve?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

lime and Calcium

I wouldn't do anything about it.
Any of the main line cleaners could clean it right out.
CLR will also break it down and clean it out.
But it's risky because if it leaches out into the foundation it could damage it.

You can't normally scope corrugated drain pipe.

 

[Speed25]

How deep from the cleanouts to the drain pipe? A cheap endoscope/borescope from Amazon that works with your cell phone could at least show the condition of the drain pipe at each cleanout without spending the money to scope the whole pipe. If you've got deposits at each cleanout, you can assume the whole pipe is the same way.

They're also useful tools for all kinds of other things from inspecting engine cylinder walls to entertaining kids/grandkids.

 

[William1]

lime and Calcium

I wouldn't do anything about it.
Any of the main line cleaners could clean it right out.
CLR will also break it down and clean it out.
But it's risky because if it leaches out into the foundation it could damage it.

You can't normally scope corrugated drain pipe.

I finally discovered a trick for running a scope or clean out brush in corrugated.. Take a small, solid ball (golf balls often work). Bore a hole through it so the camera or tool will fit tight.. Now the camera or tool will slide in (and not snag) over the corrugations easy. The only down side is if there is a blockage but.... Based on how far you got will give a great indicator of where it is.

 

[mikester]

Foundation Drainage Maintenance Question

Built a 2-story ranch in 2007. Has 4” drain pipe around the perimeter with capped risers (cleanouts?) to above grade on 3 out of 4 corners. In the west corner 4” solid pipe runs from the footing out 165’ to daylight, so no sump pump is needed.

Weed-wacking around the outlet last week I noticed some build up in the mouth of the pipe. Reached down to clear it and it’s like rock. Got my longest pry bar and mini-sledge and managed to chip some of it out (picture). Very hard stuff - probably hardened minerals/silt. Wouldn’t be surprised if there weren’t critters in there to boot since no end cap on the outlet.

I’m worried that it will eventually plug the drain since it’ already 1/3 plus at the outlet. Not wanting to wait until I get a wet basement I thought I’d better address the issue now.

Power-jet, roto-rooter, dig it up? Would rather not dig up hard clay and shale if I don’t have too, 7’ - 8’ deep at the house.

Has anyone here had similar issues / what did you do / what did it cost?

TIA, AOW

165' drainage run and mineral build up

View attachment 159931 View attachment 159932 View attachment 159933

Looks like someone has the water softener draining into the weeping tiles?

 

[dirtydeed]

as others posted...camera, then jetter if needed.

 

[Blue2Orange]

Maybe an inexpensive and relatively harm free option for removing calcium, magnesium if that is what your "concrete" is.. Citric acid solution. Inexpensive crystals/powder available at major retailers. Try testing a chunk of your "concrete" before purchasing an industrial size amount. Use to use it for descaling boiler heating elements in espresso machines. Just requires a bit of time to dissolve build up. If any copper plumbing? Beware that citric acid will strip the oxidized protective patina off of it. Blue green water is a hint. IIRC, CRL has lactic acid and ????

 

[GreensvilleJay]

for sure find out what WILL dissolve it , NOW.... though you didn't say how long it took to get that plugged up.
once you know what will get rid of it, maybe setup a tank,[pump, timer to add the 'dissolver' on a regular basis.
wait too long and that 165' run of pipe WILL have to be dug up and replaced, maybe with 6" or larger.

 

[Bee-Positive]

for sure find out what WILL dissolve it , NOW.... though you didn't say how long it took to get that plugged up.
once you know what will get rid of it, maybe setup a tank,[pump, timer to add the 'dissolver' on a regular basis.
wait too long and that 165' run of pipe WILL have to be dug up and replaced, maybe with 6" or larger.

Exactly!

2025 - 2007 = 18 years. I figure is I take care of it now I won't have to do it again in my life time. LOL

Definitely going to take others advice and see if it will "dissolve" with various substances. I definitely don't want to use anything hazardous, honeybees and crops all around and such.

The cleanout cap is at least 6' - 7' straight down to the foundation.

Footing drain is perforated solid PVC not corrugated. It's been 18 years and I have trouble remembering what I had for breakfast this morning and it's not even noon yet so I could be wrong.

Next step is to call around, get it scoped and see what the solution will cost.
Thanks all!!!

 

[Bmyers]

White vinegar (acetic acid) can dissolve calcium and some mineral deposits.

CLR will also work (phosphoric acid) does a good job of breaking it up.

Muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) works really well on tough deposits.

Yet, a couple of items of note. You are using a strong acid mixture. So, it can damage things and need to be aware of where the mixture is going. Also, the fumes can be harmful.

Playing with acids can be dangerous, so take the time to educate yourself and don't assume just because it is sold at the store that it must be safe to use.

Used improperly, these can be deadly.

 

[Blue2Orange]

CLR contains lactic and gluconic acid. Maybe phosphate salt of the two acids? Household white vinegar might be very slow. If going that route you might what to purchase "agricultural" acetic acid. I use a 40-45% diluted down to ~15-20% to kill weeds. Relatively inexpensive, but at full strength you need eye and skin protection to handle safely.

If going the chemical route just test and use the lowest effective concentration.