I have a L3350 with hydraulic shuttle shift. About a year ago while using my tractor, I lost all power to the wheels, no engine or PTO issues. I replaced my single stage clutch which was worn, and the release bearing. After putting it back together and starting it back up, my clutch pedal wouldn’t work, but I could still operate normally using shuttle shift, and did so for 6 plus months. I tore it back apart, and come to find out the tolerance on the release bearing was off, and was sticking to the hub. I replaced that, put it back together fire it up, and clutch is operating normally. However, now I have limited power to wheels. I can barely climb any inclines above 2nd gear, the tractor won’t move at all in 7th or 8th. The loader seems to be fine, and will still lift the front of the tractor up, and PTO seems to be operating normally. I have adjusted the clutch to specs, changed hydraulic fluid and filter. I am at a loss for where to go next, any help would be greatly appreciated.
L3350 power issue
- Thread starter obrionmi
- Start date
North Idaho Wolfman
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is there any other cause for a slipping clutch besides the linkage adjustment?
After reading your first post a few times, I'm still a little confused as to the actual sequence of events. You had a clutch failure. You split the tractor, replaced a (seemingly) worn clutch. Installed a new throw out bearing (which didn't work and something was apparently "sticking to the hub".) You ran it like that for six months, then split it again, corrected the bearing "sticking" problem but did nothing to the clutch disc and pressure plate? Now you have a (possible) slipping clutch problem and you don't know why. Am I all wrong on my assumptions here?
Yes, you have the sequence of events right. It was working with no issues after I replaced the clutch, it was just the pedal not working. The hydraulic shuttle shift was completely operational.
I think you're going to be proficient at splitting this tractor. To start with, the "pedal not working" symptom should have been addressed when you put it together the first time. That said, It's my opinion the "sticking to the hub" condition could have easily compromised the new clutch you put in at that time. If I were working on it I would revisit the condition of the clutch as the next move. Your choice.
What appeared to be happening with the new release bearing I put in was the inside diameter was just a little too large, which allowed it to grab the fork hub and spin. This allowed the whole hub to twist, and the forks to slip by the hub and the pedal to “fall away”. The clutch assembly seemed fine when I took to apart the second time, no noticeable damage. It just couldn’t apply the pressure to the clutch.
Some details still elude me. This "no drive" condition came AFTER the last split and bearing repair? PTO operation (pulls a load, not just spins an empty shaft) is okay? If that's a yes on both counts I have to ask if the results are both forward and reverse travel? Something power shuttle related might not affect both directions.
Yes, the no drive issue was after the bearing repair. I will try and load the PTO with a brush hog, the FEL was operating with what appeared to be full capacity. I did try in forward and reverse, and neither had full power. I thought maybe my filter was clogged or bad fluid so I switched both out.
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I can't help leaning toward a clutch issue here, but who knows? Main hydraulic system all working right, steering as well, would (sort of) rule out a hydraulic issue. A shuttle clutch problem? Maybe, but both sides laying down (just after a split)? Not all that likely. I'd be curious about the PTO. Probably would need more than a bush hog to prove the point there.
North Idaho Wolfman
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You need to split it and replace the clutch pack in its entirety to get it to all match up.
Rightnow you have a travel clutch and pressure plate that is fried.
Rightnow you have a travel clutch and pressure plate that is fried.
I replaced the pressure plate, clutch disc and release bearing. I just find it weird it was working fine before I split the tractor a second time.
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
I replaced both the pressure plate and clutch disc (I have the single stage on the left)
North Idaho Wolfman
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You replaced both before the throwout bearing issue right?
It's very possible that damaged the pressure plate and disk.
The only way your going to know is to first follow the WSM and adjust the linkage correctly and if that doesn't do it, you'll need to split it again.
It's very possible that damaged the pressure plate and disk.
The only way your going to know is to first follow the WSM and adjust the linkage correctly and if that doesn't do it, you'll need to split it again.
rbargeron
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About this L3350 that loses tractive wheel power under load, my L5450 has a similar hydraulic shuttle - so my WSM gets into it somewhat. Your actual L3350 WSM would be easier to follow. (on the L5450 the shuttle clutch system was made larger and renamed the Ever Clutch).
I had been "conversing" with obrionmi for some time about the dry clutch replacement. But that was before I knew his L3350 has the optional hydraulic shuttle. This model has two clutches operating in series to power the wheels. I think the old worn dry clutch may now be fine - after all the replacements done - but the wet clutch (hydraulic shuttle) may not be getting adequate oil flow to do the job.
I'd do a deep dive on the shuttle control valve. My L5450 has a similar one and my manual tells how and what to test (without splitting the machine). Your control valve may be slightly different than mine since they changed the design when developing the new Ever Clutch version.
The fact the machine was used for six months using it's hydraulic shuttle as it's only clutch may have put more wear on it than normal. But these disk packs don't fail in both directions at the same time from normal use. The parts drawing here shows the hydraulic shuttle inside the trans case, this tractor's SECOND clutch. Take care, Dick B.
I had been "conversing" with obrionmi for some time about the dry clutch replacement. But that was before I knew his L3350 has the optional hydraulic shuttle. This model has two clutches operating in series to power the wheels. I think the old worn dry clutch may now be fine - after all the replacements done - but the wet clutch (hydraulic shuttle) may not be getting adequate oil flow to do the job.
I'd do a deep dive on the shuttle control valve. My L5450 has a similar one and my manual tells how and what to test (without splitting the machine). Your control valve may be slightly different than mine since they changed the design when developing the new Ever Clutch version.
The fact the machine was used for six months using it's hydraulic shuttle as it's only clutch may have put more wear on it than normal. But these disk packs don't fail in both directions at the same time from normal use. The parts drawing here shows the hydraulic shuttle inside the trans case, this tractor's SECOND clutch. Take care, Dick B.
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Russell King
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Check pressure in the tires to be sure they are not slipping on the rims.
Don’t scoff, there have been reports of your problem with that being the solution.
Don’t scoff, there have been reports of your problem with that being the solution.
