Line-X on the floorboards

[number9]

Got the floorboards lined yesterday. Only planned on doing the 2 floor boards and center hump, but the rear panel had to come out for the LH floorboard to come out. The rear panel was a bit of a PITA to get out so I went ahead and had it done too.

They only did the top surfaces, not complete wrap.

The rear panel wedges between the fenders so tight I had them not spray the sides cause I was worried the bolt holes wouldn't line up good if they added material there and made it any tighter of a fit.

I'll try and get some more pics outside when the tractor is clean.

I think the black breaking up the orange looking at the tractor from the side makes it look a little longer, not that it matters.

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[Tn1977]

That looks awesome.Great job. How tough was it to remove and reinstall the pieces?

 

[number9]

Wasn't bad at all. The only one that was, was the rear panel - heel kick plate? - whatever it's called. And really it was just a pain because 2 of the bolts on each side were between the tire and fender and I couldn't get my hand back in there to get them out as easy as all the rest.

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[skeets]

What ,if I may be so bold, did that cost you?

 

[number9]

When I called the guy on the phone quoted me a ballpark of $75-100 range - for what I told him was the floorboards and center hump - "two pieces about 2'x2' square and the other looks like a shoebox".

When I got there with them the owner was the one that met me when I came in the door and said he thought it was just 2 pieces and not 5. I didn't mention the step, and then added in the heel plate, so that was my fault. Anyway, they charged me $160.

Was bummed, but when you think that the phone quote was $100 for 3 pieces = about $33 each, and adding two more took it up another $60, I think it was probably in line.

But then I think that it was only like $450-500 for my whole truck bed....

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[buckaroo52]

Are rubber floor mats available for a L 3800 dt ?

 

[buckaroo52]

I made some patterns for my L 3800 DT out of newspaper and then transfered them to cardboard. Bought a brand new black dump truck mud flap and cut out both sides and a piece for the step. Now I need to hit the hardware store for some carriage bolts washers and lock nuts and my floor boards mats will be finished. Making the patterns was kind of a challenge as I didn't remove any of the floorboards. They are not production line perfect but they still turned out pretty good and I like it. They will definitely keep from scratching up my brand new tractor floorboards. If anyone is interested for a few bucks shipping and handling I could probably send a copy of the patterns to you. Remember these were made for a 3800 D T and won't work for a hydro.

 

[rparkinson]

Buckaroo, I was thinking about this today. Its the only thing that irritates me about my new L3200HST. I think I will do this too, thanks for the idea. I would love to see some pics when you are done!! Mine has 21.x hours and is already scratched all to hell.

 

[ctmike]

Buckaroo, I was thinking about this today. Its the only thing that irritates me about my new L3200HST. I think I will do this too, thanks for the idea. I would love to see some pics when you are done!! Mine has 21.x hours and is already scratched all to hell.

I've used rubber stair treads that the hardware stores sell to cover floorboards on my garden tractors. They are about 1/8" thick and I use contact cement to hold them down.

 

[Benhameen]

Got the floorboards lined yesterday. Only planned on doing the 2 floor boards and center hump, but the rear panel had to come out for the LH floorboard to come out. The rear panel was a bit of a PITA to get out so I went ahead and had it done too.

They only did the top surfaces, not complete wrap.

The rear panel wedges between the fenders so tight I had them not spray the sides cause I was worried the bolt holes wouldn't line up good if they added material there and made it any tighter of a fit.

I'll try and get some more pics outside when the tractor is clean.

I think the black breaking up the orange looking at the tractor from the side makes it look a little longer, not that it matters.

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I like it, did you consider using the "do it yourself" bed liner kit?

 

[number9]

Nope, because I'm pretty anal about things and I know that I'd never get it done as good as getting Line-x put on, then I'd be pissed that I'd wasted $xx on the DIY stuff and go get the Line-x done anyway.

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[phildac]

Nope, because I'm pretty anal about things and I know that I'd never get it done as good as getting Line-x put on, then I'd be pissed that I'd wasted $xx on the DIY stuff and go get the Line-x done anyway.

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I agree!

 

[BadDog]

I've used Herculiner and Duplicolor liners several times. The rock crawler I built and ran with my son and daughter had the entire floor as well as step and other areas coated. Never a bit came off, except with some unfortunate rock rash hits, which also removed a fair amount of steel beneath the liner. My "garbage scow", a pretty unique original C10 SWB step-side 6.2 diesel pickup (one of one as far as anyone can tell, not that it's worth anything) was/is an AZ truck, but had floor mats and been hosed out way too many times and left the padding soaked. When we took it out, no rust out but significant deep rust over much of the floor well. Cleaned well, used needler and wire brush liberally, applied phosphoric acid to kill the rust and create iron phosphate (basic chemical rust kill), then right over with the Duplicolor stuff. I've had truck parts (including ring gear and Detroit carrier for C14FF axle) and machine tooling sliding and bouncing around in those floors, not one scratch through, thought there are a few more dents that cracked the finish a bit because it can't stretch with the dent. Bottom line, for simple foot traffic type wear surfaces, you really can't beat the value, and it works fantastic. But like so many things, the key is in the prep. Get it completely clean and degreased, scuff/sand as needed, and follow directions.

Also, don't plan on reusing left overs beyond the first few weeks (tops). Once open, it won't last long, so get just what you need, and don't be afraid of a few extra coats in key areas to consume what you have. Because of that, you'll find it on battery boxes, step bumper step surfaces, in place of door seal plates, and anywhere I need a tough no slip surface. I generally have whatever additional areas I can think of pre-prepped and ready before starting, knowing I need to "use it or loose it".

Just my experience for what it's worth. The professional work looks a little nicer. But for the cost of a quart of the stuff and a little time, you could DIY and save a bundle, unless you have a connection that runs the local liner shop (that's how I got my 2500HD bed done over-the-rails).

 

[thedevilyoulove]

OP, that looks fantastic. I think I will do this to my L3901. Were the pieces difficult to remove?

 

[Tooljunkie]

The diy kits are pretty good, i prefer the two part products,prep is the biggest part of any bedliner.

For a complex pattern for floor mats, duct tape. A couple layers and then cut it to lay flat. There is your pattern. I use it for sheet metal all the time.

 

[v6pack]

Number9, I have been inspired by your Line-X floor boards so I have removed mine but am using the self spray on bed liner. I may regret it but time will tell. It is not as course as the Line-X in my truck bed but I think it will work fine. You are correct about the kick plate being a pain but I chose not to coat it. I will post pictures of the panels before I mount them and after I mount them later today. Thank you for the great Idea.

 

[v6pack]

Here are the floor panels I painted with the spray can bed liner. It is not as course as the Line-X in my truck bed but we will see how it does. I am however pleased with how it looks.

 

[Sammy3700]

Thanks for the pictures and info all. Now I know what I need to do to mine.

 

[Spectre381]

Got the floorboards lined yesterday. Only planned on doing the 2 floor boards and center hump, but the rear panel had to come out for the LH floorboard to come out. The rear panel was a bit of a PITA to get out so I went ahead and had it done too.



They only did the top surfaces, not complete wrap.



The rear panel wedges between the fenders so tight I had them not spray the sides cause I was worried the bolt holes wouldn't line up good if they added material there and made it any tighter of a fit.



I'll try and get some more pics outside when the tractor is clean.



I think the black breaking up the orange looking at the tractor from the side makes it look a little longer, not that it matters.

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Nice! I agree - the black contrasting with the orange looks really good.


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